m1ghtymaxXx Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Only a bit by rotating them by one bolt hole. I don't see folks adjusting caster with any style camber plate-I think that aspect is a bunch of hype. Use the cyber plate for camber and an adjustable TC rod for caster. Adjusting caster sounds important but it creates more clearance headaches when you put larger wheels on. You start having rubbing on the airdam then next thing you know you gotta take a sawzall to all your sheet metal. Adjusting caster was probably the rage when guys put 13" wheels on their z cars but the-17s you need to clear big brakes makes caster increases a real headache. This sounds like an argument for more caster adjustment in the camber plates, as increasing caster from the top should pull the wheel back from the air dam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 (edited) Thing is, you'll never get that much caster adjustment at the strut top because of the lack of space between the spring top hat and the inside of the tower . Edited November 25, 2013 by morbias Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 You are welcome to try, but the stock strut tower has limited room inside to move things around. It pretty much takes all of your space to get 3 degrees of camber. With additional lowering I can get a total of 3.7 degrees out of the DP plates in front. You might get a degree or two of caster out of the camber plate, but no where near the 8-9 degrees that is recommended in the Suspension FAQ. I was able to achieve 4.5 degrees of caster with a combination of adjustable TC rods and the DP camber plates-any more than that will take some sheet metal cutting. Car does not push (understeer) any more. I am now looking at a staggered wheel setup to try to keep rear end under me at the autocross-I have more trouble with rear tire traction when going straight than I have with lateral traction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 You are welcome to try, but the stock strut tower has limited room inside to move things around. It pretty much takes all of your space to get 3 degrees of camber. With additional lowering I can get a total of 3.7 degrees out of the DP plates in front. You might get a degree or two of caster out of the camber plate, but no where near the 8-9 degrees that is recommended in the Suspension FAQ. I was able to achieve 4.5 degrees of caster with a combination of adjustable TC rods and the DP camber plates-any more than that will take some sheet metal cutting. Car does not push (understeer) any more. I am now looking at a staggered wheel setup to try to keep rear end under me at the autocross-I have more trouble with rear tire traction when going straight than I have with lateral traction. Yeah the combination seems to be ideal, did you get your 4.5 degrees with coilovers or stock diameter springs? I presume 2.5" coilover springs should open up a decent bit of room for cast adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Coilover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 For the DP camber plates which one are you using ?....they show 2 on there site ..curious what sets them apart... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 204-1017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 That's the DP part number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 Ok ya you have the biscuit type ...they make another camber kit 204 1003 ...it's 90 bucks more a set ...I'm wondering what sets the too sets apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 The 204-1003 requires that you cut the top of the tower up and the 1017 doesn't. I have been a big advocate for the 1017 but I am running into a snag with them: I am having to cut up the top of the strut tower anyway in order to access the adjuster screw on my new koni shocks. The adjuster on tokicos cleared stock sheet metal. Now I'm cutting anyway, so it is kind of a wash. Keep an eye on my build thread in the projects forums and when I'm finished in a couple of weeks I will post photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 I still advise you to go hang out in the pits at your local race track to get a better understanding of this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 Nobody races those around here ...so I kinda have to rely a bit in the forums for feedback and hopefully provide my own once I get her on the track ...still want to keep her as a daily driver as well ...anyways I guess the website saying the other kit is a bolt in ...it's not ?....the shocks I'm getting are konis as well ...so if I have to cut it up maybe I should open the option of weld ins again ....if I can't find a true bolt in might as well weld the plates in . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) Are both weld-in and bolt in plates allowed in SVRA? I believe the inhibiting factor would be that they do not approve of 'reinforcing' the mounting area, but the rules suggest everything is OK as long as the track stays the same? I just want to be especially sure of this before welding some in that cannot be removed Also whats the methodology for lining up the weld-in camber plates to prevent uneven L/R caster? Just put the flat edge of the plate flush against the fender? Edited December 28, 2013 by ol doc gully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Also whats the methodology for lining up the weld-in camber plates to prevent uneven L/R caster?. Laser, steel ruler, level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Thanks, after seeing the AZC instructions I now realize aligning with the other strut top is enough, I suppose that was my question. Also, I realize it was for IT classing that 'reinforcing' the strut mount area is frowned upon, so I suppose if one wants to be safe in both IT and SVRA they should go for the ground control plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 The AZC and Ground Control weld in camber plates have always been IT legal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 ...as well as SVRA? Thanks, thats the info I was looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomanmike Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 I second the comments on the weld in plates. I did my T3 plates yesterday in the front and spent the majority of my time measuring and double checking placement. Its one of those things that will cause you to have kind of a snowball effect for adjustment if its not true to eachother, the original angle and placement on the car and level. They are great quality parts and with the top hat bearing system they sell with the ground control kits its far more adjustment than i'll ever need for camber. I've seen the EMI style plates installed and raised an eyebrow at it only using 2 bolts to mount but its a total non issue. A good friend has a set of the EMI style on his car with ground control. Its squeeky sometimes but, its seen a few track days at summit point and never had anything move or come out of alignment. I did the T3 plates because i like the upper hat system a little more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 I am assuming that you can just square the camber plat to the firewall as well. The only thing I don't like about the T3 plates is that they are really too thick to bend them easily to conform with the strut top like the AZC ones. I haven't installed my T3 plates yet, but I'll let you all know how it goes when I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 The 204-1003 requires that you cut the top of the tower up and the 1017 doesn't. I have been a big advocate for the 1017 but I am running into a snag with them: I am having to cut up the top of the strut tower anyway in order to access the adjuster screw on my new koni shocks. The adjuster on tokicos cleared stock sheet metal. Now I'm cutting anyway, so it is kind of a wash. Keep an eye on my build thread in the projects forums and when I'm finished in a couple of weeks I will post photos. Thanks very much for the part numbers. Want to install the 204-1017 on my 240Z. What needs to be underneath the 1017 to the top of the coil spring? Right now have the original doughnut on top of the Koni Racing Shocks inside shortened struts with adjustable coilovers. Really would appreciate your experience in this subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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