How to build a reliable turbo stroker?

[johnc]

If money is a concern, you'll get more bang for your buck by spending the stroker money on a good turbo setup. Combining a stroker and turbo together in one motor tends to really increase costs.

[SleeperZ]

Consider this - 3.0 liters from 2.8 liters is a 7% increase in displacement, and it will certainly be a very expensive 7% increase in power.

 

You can make a L28ET with 300 whp very streetable - you can even do it without removing the valve cover. Intercooler, upgraded turbo, and fuel system, probably a standalone control unit unless you are very resourceful. I have 260 whp right now with just this setup, with a STOCK fuel system.

[Guest BigE]

Here's my situation. I'm about to graduate college so I won't be in debt much longer. I have an 82 280ZX N/A with 5spd and no ttops. It is my current daily driver and runs very well. I think I can get a turbo motor, harness and computer locally for a good price. My idea is to put the motor on a stand and build it over the next few months, little at a time, to make a reliable, street driven, quick car while retaining A/C, stereo, etc. Since horsepower is never free (monetarily as well as in compromise), I figure the only way to get high hp while retaining manners will require a displacement increase, (possibly) upgraded turbo, better fuel delivery, head work (mainly port and polish), intake port to match head, intercooler and the like. I'm new to turbo cars so I don't really know how powerful a turbo stroker will be. I'm looking for about 300 at the wheels with room to grow.

 

So my questions are: Is going stroker necessary to retain manners? Would it be better (given budget and reasonable time frame) to rebuild the entire motor (forged pistons, rods, etc.) than to just clean the block, replace gaskets and do head work? Can I use the stock computer? Can I use the stock Nissan 5 spd? Will the stock fuel pump handle the duties? If not, how does the dual inline pump set up work? What hard parts will I need to build this thing on the stand so I can drop it in in a week(end)? Any other info I should know about this undertaking?

 

I will be doing all work (other than machining) myself.

 

Thanks all,

 

E

[Guest BigE]

All the better then.

 

So what hard parts am I looking at? Do I even need to go inside the motor? Basically, what can I do to the motor while it's on the stand waiting to go in? Upgraded turbo, injectors, FPR?

 

Thanks for all your help fellas,

 

E

[fl327]

Originally posted by BigE:

All the better then.

 

So what hard parts am I looking at? Do I even need to go inside the motor? Basically, what can I do to the motor while it's on the stand waiting to go in? Upgraded turbo, injectors, FPR?

 

Thanks for all your help fellas,

 

for starters just use as much oem stuff as you can, try to get electrical as complete as possible, the main harness is one pigtail to the ecu, very simple. if motor is on the stand i would re-ring pistons, steel headgasket, o ring the head, and drop it in with stock setup. upgraded turbo and injectors means standalone efi to make it run right i think. stock turbo, big fuel pump, intercooler, and adjustable regulator should make you happy for a while.

 

E

[SleeperZ]

Originally posted by BigE:

All the better then.

 

So what hard parts am I looking at? Do I even need to go inside the motor? Basically, what can I do to the motor while it's on the stand waiting to go in? Upgraded turbo, injectors, FPR?

 

Thanks for all your help fellas,

 

E

I did nothing to my motor while it was on the stand. If you have good compression, leave it alone. Just use it to tune the system in preparation for an injector/intercooler/ECU upgrade. Case in point - SHANE bought junkyard motors and ran 11's and 12's for seasons, without even removing the head.

 

If you do decide to build it, metal head gaskets and o-ringing don't go together. Pick one sealing method and stay with it. Metal gasket is a good way to go. I don't know that many people still o-ring the blocks, although I hear it works well with stock gaskets. ARP studs and bottom end hardware is cheap and good insurance. Unless you go all out, stock Nissan parts are the way to go.

[Lockjaw]

If the stock engine is in good shape, I would leave it alone and spend the money on getting a hybrid turbo, good intercooler, and replacing the fuel pump. Get a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust system made, and use a straight thru muffler like a dynomax, maxflow or borla.