Decision 240z vs 280z

[skerry]

Alright, I need some advice. I'm new to these cars and I'm wondering what you guys would do.

 

I have a 1972 240z that I'm planning to use as a daily driver. It runs without issue and sounds good but has the following known issues:

 

Has a clunk in the back that we believe is a bushing but research shows it can be one of several things

Needs new tires

Windshield Wipers don't work at all

Rust in the floor panels but the rest of the car looks pretty decent on that front

Needs weather stripping all around

Interior needs to be completely redone: New Carpet, New Seat covers, dash redone, new door skins

Exterior needs paint badly(Somebody decided that it needed to look like the Italian flag and that they should paint it themselves).

No AC installed(South Louisiana Daily Driver so I will have to install this)

Dents and dings in the body(nothing major, just what you'd expect in a 40 year old car)

 

I paid $800 for the car, I have about $200 in it on top of that (New Brake Booster and Master Cylinder). The car had a title issue which I have resolved.

 

I've found a 280z that is a little bit of a drive for me to go look at but the guy is being up front and telling me known issues:

 

It's a 1978 280z. It has EFI. Here is the description from the current owner. 

 

Very nice 280Z! Original 2.8 liter with efi and 5-speed. This cars runs well and looks good enough to turn heads! All original parts inside and out are on this car except the radio. The interior is very nice with good vinyl, newer carpet, a custom sewn leather steering wheel cover. Drivers seat bottom should be recovered. The body is very straight, no dents, some minor rust in the usual areas. I have installed 1979 Z chrome wheels and barely used goodyear radial T/A tires. I still have the original steels wheels and hub caps, an extra trans, rear end, speedo, tail lights, and other misc stuff. Also installed "quiet" Magnaflow exhaust, a new front windshield and rubber, and new rear window seal. The heat and air does not work or the fuel gauge. Drive it now and have fun!

 

Some things that we've talked about on the phone:

 

The minor rust in usual areas refers to under the door handles, in the wheel arches and around the battery tray. The floor panels and spare tire are clean and he has replaced the fuel tank due to rust issues with it. 

 

The car burns a little bit of oil, he said about a quart every couple of months. 

 

The transmission was gone through and looks really good.

 

The engine has never been rebuild but has good compression. 

 

He's asking $3500 for the car. 

 

 

Obviously, there could be further issues with either car but I'm wondering if I should make the move and go for the newer car with the bigger engine or if I should just continue with the engine that I have now. The one I have now will sell for about $2000 to $2500 where I am as the cars are sought after but don't come up much around here. So if anybody has any insight, I'd love to hear it.

 

Thanks

Stephen

 

[socorob]

Check all underneath for rust. If the areas he says are rusted up high, I would think the areas under may be more rusted than he may realize. Rust is the killer in these cars, and you're right, they never come up for sale around here. I had to drive to Texas to get mine and it wasn't rust free as the owner thought. She took a lot off the price though, because she honestly had no idea. I don't know if there are usual areas of rust on these. All the ones I see in the junkyards all seem to be rusted badly in totally different places... unless the usual area for rust happens to be the body. Definitely check the floor pans, frame rails from the front of the cars all the way back, the frame horns where the hood connects, spare tire well, well pretty much spend a lot of time under it. From what he says is rusted I imagine there is more. From the description I personally wouldn't go anymore than 2K and that's if everything else is perfect besides what he mentioned. Rust is a lot of work to deal with. Mine was minimally rusted and I spent more time on sheetmetal than I ever cared to. Welding patch panels sucks. I gutted my interior and I'm thinking about putting a classic auto air street rod cooler III or maybe a vintage air gen II compac in place of the stock AC while everything is out. AC is a must here.

[NewZed]

Decisons should be based on criteria like: daily driver, faster than a Subaru, shiny and new looking, cooler than my neighbor's car, etc.   You haven't established any, not even one.  So it's impossible to know what you're looking for.  As for "newer", you're talking about 41 yrs. old vs. 35.

 

 

Post #2 here is informative and along the same lines as your question.  It's subjective, don't try to be objective.  Whatever makes you feel good is the right choice. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/52263-newb-project-faq-what-engine-swap-how-much-will-it-cost/

Edited January 7, 2014 by NewZed

[fhptom]

Keep both. Use the 280 as your daily driver and restore 240 over time. That is you can afford to and have a place to to keep the 240. Wish I still had my 72' 240 which I got in 1979 and drove in high school.

[Pharaohabq]

There's a few threads about this type of question.  What should I get?  Really that all depends on you.  If sounds like your 240 is a bit of a project. But depending on the amount of rust that 280Z could be at least as much of a project.  In so far as the engine size, there's not that much difference between the two power-wise.  the L28 is fuel injected, so that's a plus (if it's working well) and it's already got the AC that you need.  So that leans me toward the 280Z  based on what you've said.  The oil consumption means a rebuild is in your future. It's good to know how your engine looks and works internally. not to mention catching some of the escaped horses. The 280Z has a 5 speed which IMHO is a necessity for highway cruising.

 

But again Rust is the real issue. If the 280 has that much rust as you've described, it's likely there's more hiding. That means too that however nice the paint job currently is, that' it'll have to go. If you get it, first thing you'd need to do is sand down all the rusted areas back a couple inches in the paint and treat/primer and repaint. that way you can try to stop the current rust issue or at least slow it down. Rust is the enemy.

 

Both your car and this need work, but if you have to have only one, I'd try to get the 280Z for a lot less than he's asking, but it's up to you. If you like it, then it's worth it to you. If you think for the same $3500 you can get your 240Z all situated how you'd like then go that way. (probably not everything for that price) there's a ton that you can do yourself. That's really going to be the clincher. How much time do you have to work on either car?  If you're handy and can do it yourself, then keep the 240Z.  If you want a project that doesn't need that much, then go buy the 280Z.

 

Ideally do what FHPTOM said and buy the 280Z to drive while you fix up the 240Z. Can't really go wrong with that.

Edited January 7, 2014 by Pharaohabq

[skerry]

I appreciate all of the ideas guys. I've thought about it and I think I'm going to stick with the 240z. As I mentioned in my post, I'm wanting a daily driver. I'm not in any kind of hurry to drop something bigger in, but I felt like the 280z gave me that option in the future. I've decided that the money I would spend even if I got some back would go a lot further on the 240z and I could customize it more to liking. Again, I appreciate everyones input. I know there are a ton of threads like this one but these cars had specific issues and I was glad to get some input back on those. Thanks again.

[Pharaohabq]

Probably a good call if you don't have the time of the $ to drop.  As for your 240Z, The AC isn't that tough. There's a lot that you can get from a 280Z ac setup that will straight bolt onto your car, then you'll need an AC shop to vacuum it all out and upgrade to R134. It won't be an issue so long as they get all the old oil out of the pump and condenser. That or you can keep it with the R12, but that's more expensive.  You can get stock 240Z "dealer option" AC switches and even AC from a 240Z but the 280Z/280ZX stuff will work just as well and be a lot easier to source.  As for the interior, Black Dragon has most of it, is not them, then there's Datsun Restore, among others to get you all you need. MSA might still be able to get stuff as well.  You can consult a local Datsun shop (if there's one near) to see if they have more resources.