Tomzern Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) Hi guys! I have been lurking around on hybridZ for a while now, so I thought it was about time to show you what I am up to First of all, a small introduction of myself; I am a 25 year old JDM car lover from norway. I have previously owned and completely restored a white 1991 Nissan 200sx S13 (same as your 240sx, but with the CA18DET engine). A couple of pictures of it: I sold it a couple of years ago and started saving up to buy a 240Z. By the end of last years summer I found my 240z! It was a yellow 1970-model (hls30-02193) that was on it's way from the US. A few pictures from the day I got it: The car seemed to be in a good solid shape except bad bushings all way around, rotten exhaust and some electrical faults. In order to get the car registered in norway I had to change all the bushings so that was the first thing I started with, along with fixing the brakes all around the car. I finished up the rear end first, with a new front diff mount as well, because the old one was torn apart As I Was mounting the front suspension back together with new bushings I noticed everything was a lot harder to mount on the left side than on the right side. Clearly something was wrong, and I was very dissapointed when I found out that the front left framerail looked like a banana seen from above =( It was obvious that the car needed straightening and the left framerail needed to be replaced, so I ordered a new one from zedd findings and stripped the front end completely. When I finally got the car back straight it looked like this: Since the front end was almost completely stripped anyway, I decided to paint the engine bay before mounting it all back together, so I started preparing it for primer and paint I had to remove all the black 1k shitty spraypaint in the front of the car. That was a painful timeconsuming job, but it turned out very good. 2K primer went on after a long preparing process: When it was time for some color I went with black 2K polyurethane paint, and got a professional car painter to spray the engine bay for me. I am very happy with the result! Because the car had been crashed, I could not reuse the old crossmember, so I bought a refurbished one from a guy here in norway and painted it at the same time: So now I have come to the point where I have started to mount it all back together. The plan is now to get it back together completely stock to be registered for norwegian plates, then use it as a stock car for the summer and swapping the engine out with an RB20 next winter. I bought a stock RB20 complete with tranny, wiring and ECU when I bought the car, so the engine is standing in my workshop waiting to be mounted. I just have to register it as a stock car first because of regulations and shit... I have also bought Rota RBX wheels and ZG flares. The plan is to have the car yellow with black flares and bumpers. Ground control coilover kit will also be ordered. That should give you an idea of where I am going with this Can't wait to get it done, but it will take some time because it ain't cheap =/ Please come with any feedback, ideas, tips you may have I really need it, as this is my first Z build. Kind Regards, Tomzern Edited January 26, 2014 by Tomzern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) That car is almost too clean and original to modify. Edited January 26, 2014 by rturbo 930 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomzern Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Well pictures tend to lie a bit when it comes to finish. The car was "restored" in the US a while before it came to norway. It has been repainted in the original color and when you look up close it is'nt really that nice. I suspect alot of bondo underneath the paint around the rear wheel arches among other places, and the rear bumper senter piece is painted with shitty black spraypaint. The rear bumper sides are covered with chrome finish tape (!).. The reason why I have bought a 70-model is because of the regulations for modifying a car here in norway. The rules changed in 1971, so it is much easier to get a 70-model streetlegal with an RB20 than it is with a 71 and up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Ah, yeah, pictures can definitely be deceiving (been there, done that). I wasn't aware the rules were different for 70 vs 71+ model years. Is there a similar reason you went with an RB20 vs and RB25/26? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomzern Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 I went with the RB20 because the guy I bought the car from here in norway had a good running RB20 package available so I got the car and the engine for a very reasonable price. I am pretty sure it will also be easier to get it streetlegal because of reduced displacement compared to the original engine. Of course an RB26 would be even better, but I think the RB20 will be a lot of fun with about 350-400hp in a car this light=) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorwegianZED Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Nice! can i come see it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomzern Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 I sent you a pm NorwegianZED=) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomzern Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 Quite alot has happened since last update. I mounted the engine that came with the car, hoping to get it to run good enough to use it this season, but I could not get it to run on all 6 cylinders even with good spark on every plug. A compression test revealed ZERO compression on cylinder number 4, so I lifted the head off and both the head, and cylinder no. 4 did not look good. It looked like there had been water in the cylinder for a long time because there were small pores and marks on the wall. Some pics: Head came off: Bottom end went out: Since I have an early-vin car and the engine number matches the VIN, I will keep this engine as a backup and rebuild it to perfect condition over some time, but I was in need of a quick solution to this, so I went and bought an L24 longblock for a hundred bucks from a local Z-guy who had sold his Z and needed to get rid of his "spare engine". He told me the engine had not been used for several years, but it ran good the last time it was in use. The "new" engine in my workshop as it was when I got it: For that price I just took the chance, moved all of my outer components over to this engine and mounted it back in the car. Ready to go into the car again: Voilà=D It runs good, but I have a bad ticking noise that I believe is coming from either intake valve no. 5 or 6. I searched with a stethoscope and that is where the sound is strongest. I have adjusted the valves cold, but not hot. Judging by the frequency of the sound I think it's just one valve. What do you think? The sound is almost non existent when the engine is cold, but as it heats up it becomes stronger and stronger.... Here's a little vid to show the noise: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJOGgwDkPV4 I have also mounted a central locking system with alarm in the car. It works very good Actuator placement: How I solved the wiring to doors: Now almost all the electrical stuff on the car works as well! Only thing missing is the tach! I also got my custom seat covers which I ordered from exotikleather on eBay. I have not mounted them completely yet, but I had to try one backrest to see how it looked, and I am very satisfied with both the look and the fitment What do you think? Yesterday I ordered a Xenon air dam with air ducts. Can't wait to get the car on the ground now =D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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