Qcsfinest280z Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 We see power on the + and - side of the coil and have even replaced the coil but there is no spark coming for coil to the distributor. Ive looked at old post and people have suggested a new ICM but I wanted to double check before I cough up the money and order it online. This Car is driving me crazy. 1 step forward..... 5 steps back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Toned down and rephrased - coil has power...no spark...help, is not enough information. And you're in the wrong sub-forum. Something for you to check - what causes the ignition module to break the coil circuit? Edited March 1, 2014 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qcsfinest280z Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 OK sorry for the not so clear post. I was a little frustrated while posting. So here it goes. I have my mechanic swapping l28 engines in my 77 280z because the kid that had it before me blew the motor. After the swap it started a few times (only at the starter, You can turn the key and it wont turn over just a click on the inside of the car) and then all of a sudden nothing at all not even when he tries at the starter. So we got a new starter, then a ignition coil, then tested another Accel coil to be sure that wasn't the problem. We played around with the distributor and swapped the one over from the first motor as well. NewZed I tried to follow what you said in this post to find the problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108380-77-280z-ignition-coil/ I have 12v on both (+) and (-) of the ignition coil with the key on. But no spark leaving the coil going to the distributor. I am by no means a expert and I am just trying to help my mechanic figure out whats wrong with the car so I can bring it home. Thank you in advance for any assistance that anyone can provide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qcsfinest280z Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) After reading EE-42 of the FSM the only thing I come to the conclusion that its the Transistor ignition unit. But again I am not a expert. Edited March 1, 2014 by Qcsfinest280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) That thread problem was an injection issue. No fuel. You can check your coil operation by attaching a wire to the negative post of the coil, one end only, then turning on the power and tapping the other end of the wire to ground. Set the main wire from the center of the coil close to a ground area, like the valve cover or intake manifold, that's where the spark will happen. Each tap will make and break the circuit to the coil and should create a spark. But, it looks like your mechanic is going to do the testing and he doesn't seem to have a very good method. He's swapping parts without knowing why. Does the tachometer move when you spin the engine? It may be that your guy just left the blue wire off of the ballast resistor. The blue wire controls the ECU, the tach and the ignition module. It's circuit runs to the negative post of the coil. Edit - actually the tachometer may not move if the ignition module is bad. No spark, no pulse. But, a minute with a multimeter under the dash at the ignition module or at Pin 1 at the ECU connector will tell if it's connected correctly. No blue wire, no run. Easy to overlook after an engine swap, especially if the ballast resistor was messed with. Edited March 1, 2014 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qcsfinest280z Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Yes, That is the frustrating part. I feel like he is just guessing and swapping parts instead of finding the issue. Not sure what he did to make the key not start the car. still has power when its turned to on. and when he use to start the car with the starter the key would turn it off. At this point I'm just going to drop it off at Nisstech and let them bring it across the finish line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qcsfinest280z Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 NewZed I did your test and it created a spark. I'm moving to the inside to the module now 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Progress. Don't forget to check the blue wire. It needs to be connected to the coil negative at one end and the ignition module at the other. The wiring diagram in the Engine Electrical chapter would help. Other wires that need to be connected to the module are the red and green wires from the distributor. That's where they go after the terminal on the fender well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qcsfinest280z Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Correction. Only a spark when tapping the - to a ground. Still nothing from the coil. Blue wire is seeing 12v all the way through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qcsfinest280z Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 The red wire has 12v. Didn't pick up anything from the green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 You should be measuring resistance at red and green. Page EE-31. The weird thing about transistors is that they can show voltage, but won't have significant current flow. I don't know if 12 volts at red is normal or not. But the resistance through the pickup coil circuit is important. The flow path would be red wire from pickup in distributor to terminal on fender well through ignition module in cabin then back to terminal on fender well and back to distributor's green wire (some reman's use two blue wires from the distributor, green and red on the inside though). That's the trigger for the module. Then The blue wire connected to the coil negative and the module makes and breaks the circuit based on the signal in those two wires. Easy to get lost in there. That's why the diagram is handy. There are other simple tests you can run while you're in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qcsfinest280z Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Did not get 720 ohm when i tested those two wires. I got around 450. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Actually, back to #10 and #11, you should never have 12 volts on the red, if it's disconnected from the module. Are you measuring with the wires disconnected as shown in the FSM? If they're connected to the module when you measure you'll get funky results because you'll also be measuring components inside the module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qcsfinest280z Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 So problem solved and the engine is now running smooth. Turns out my mechanic mixed up a few wires (at the transmission/ bcdd and the temp sensor and thermo time wires were crossed). The guys and Nisstech Imports did a great job and got it back to me in a day. Thanks NewZed for trying to walk me through the trouble shooting but I doubt I would have been able to figure it out with my limited mechanical skills. My next problem is the exhaust is pretty rusted and is now hanging inches from the ground after a little driving shook it free. I have already decided that I want to stick with the stock motor and build up to 225-250hp. My question is with the end result in mind and trying not to do double work what route would you go to fix my exhaust problem. For example go ahead and do headers and and exhaust etc. All suggestions and parts recommendations are welcome. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 To get 225-250whp I would read and it will not be cheap. A header or exhaust will not bring you close to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qcsfinest280z Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Yes I have noticed it seems to be expensive to get good power out of the L28. But I am pretty sure thats the way I want to go. Im looking at the MSA 6-1 headers and premium exhaust. They seem to get pretty good reviews from my search on this thread. Also on my old motor I am trying to save as much as I can. The block has 2 pretty nice size holes in it but i figure i could save a few items for back up or sale. What do those parts go for these days. Hopefully can break it down this weekend if it stops raining in NC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yhlz Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 (edited) Double check all of your grounds. edit: seems you found the answer. sorry for the post. Edited March 28, 2014 by yhlz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.