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Need advice on L28T buildup


J Taylor

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I am in the process of planning and gathering parts to start my L28 turbo buildup. Shooting for HP figures in the mid 400's to the wheels. Been talking to rebello and top end about head work and other stuff but it seems everywhere I turn I get different opinions about how to build the bottom end. What is going to be the best setup to go with. I have the LD28 crank sitting here but I think I have decided against stroking it since it seems like I keep reading about it not being a good turbo platform unless you want to dump an insane amount of money into it. Also, who should I get to do my headwork and what all should I have done? Any tips on a good cam to go with? ANyone have anything good or bad to say about Ross pistons? Thanks for any help.

JT

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As much fun as it is to build a motor, if all you are shooting for is 400 hp, use the stock motor, valve cover to oil pan. Put you money into an efficient turbo (TO4E?) and an efficient intercooler, along with the requisite fuel system upgrade. That setup with 22-25 psi boost will put you into that hp range, and if you keep your timing and intake temperatures in check, the stock motor will produce what you want.

 

MO only, seen it done.

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I already have a stock motor making 400+ at the flywheel but just blew a piston recently. I don't want to go back with another stock motor. I already have t62 turbo and a huge intercooler. The motor is going back in with a DFI of some sort. I have everything taken care of except the specifics of what I need to build the motor right. The motor I have made 339 at the wheels and I am shooting for 450(give or take a few)at the wheels after it goes back in.

JT

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  • 11 months later...

i was wondering if u could run that 25psi on pump gas?

i ask this is because im looking to build a 450rwhp L28T motor for my 240Z but i want this on pump gas.

the other thing is i have no clue on what pistons, turbo, intercooler, etc i should use.

 

thanks.

 

mike

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sidenote:

i know one guy who dynoed

292hp

325 lbs

with 370 merkur inj.

fmic

t3/t4

and the flapper door and stock ecu

he calibrated afm to run with the inj.

he had to stop at 4k or so leaning out at 13psi

watch out for that guy at sears point

he'll be in the 12s if he hooks...............

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Yes, this was all on stock electronics with flapper door AFM and 370cc injectors. I ended up putting another stock motor in it since I picked it up for $50 and have since then made 388rwhp and 421 lb/ft torque at 20psi but it was very very lean. I am in the process of installing SDS with 52# injectors at the moment so hopefully it will hold up ok. I'm trying to pick up a rb25 or rb26 in the next 6 months or so rather than building the L28. Not that I will end up doing it for sure but that's the plan for the moment. smile.gif

JT

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Just stick with the 2.8L motor to save money. Have the pistons prepped, peen/polish/resize/ARP and get a good set of forged pistons in an 8:1 configuration. I had Sunbelt port the head and used SS valves along with polishing the combustion chamber. I say this all the time, you MUST use a large turbo to make the power. If you want 600hp you MUST have a turbo that flows in the 960 CFM range and not some T04E. Also, consider the amount of boost you want to run. Do you want to have to run 30psi of boost to make 450rwhp? I don't! Porting the intake and exhaust manifold will help, but custom manifolds make it even easier to reach your desired hp goal. It is the sum total of all the mods that make the difference. A free flowing intake does you little if your exhaust/exhaust manifold is still restrictive. Lastly, nitrous never hurt!

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