Longer Wheel studs

[itzgoten]

Buy the NISMO long Stud Kit for a 350Z... So you get 20 studs instead of 16... PFFFT! Maybe you need spares if something breaks , right?

 

That's what I used on my S30

 

Courtesy Nissan likely ships to your door. 1.25 thread pitch... Drops (presses) right in!

 

Tony,

This might be a stupid question but if I decided to go with the ARP replacement for the 350z would that technically be the same thing?

 

Something like this for example...

http://www.forcedfabllc.com/products/nissan-350z-g35-arp-extended-wheel-studs-fits-g35-350z.html?gclid=CjgKEAjw2KCcBRCQ_6mztcunhEgSJABPxOF1_SsHyE-c9rfgZTuh5ZBD5KIzWjHjCHRJ8UAu-m62G_D_BwE

 

Reason I'm asking is my brothers shop has an account with ARP so it might be easier for me to go that route.

[Tony D]

I have 350Z Nismo Long Studs on my 260Z.

You buy the set, and have four spare studs (5-Lug vs 4-Lug)

 

Awesome benefit, huh?

 

My Thermostats are bought at Autozone for my "1962 Chevy Biscayne Two Door Powerglide, 160F"

 

54mm thermostat out of a Chevy works same as a 54mm thermostat out of a Datsun.

 

Same for Vendor Crosses.

[itzgoten]

I have 350Z Nismo Long Studs on my 260Z.

You buy the set, and have four spare studs (5-Lug vs 4-Lug)

 

Awesome benefit, huh?

 

My Thermostats are bought at Autozone for my "1962 Chevy Biscayne Two Door Powerglide, 160F"

 

54mm thermostat out of a Chevy works same as a 54mm thermostat out of a Datsun.

 

Same for Vendor Crosses.

 

Well I'm not running the L motor so that wouldn't work for me but as for the studs I would prefer an ARP stud if possible (plus it'll be cheaper for me). Just wondering if it's safe to assume that as long as I get a 350z stud it'll press in properly to my S30.

 

Thanks again for the clarification.

[beermanpete]

Well I'm not running the L motor so that wouldn't work for me but as for the studs I would prefer an ARP stud if possible (plus it'll be cheaper for me). Just wondering if it's safe to assume that as long as I get a 350z stud it'll press in properly to my S30.

 

Thanks again for the clarification.

 

The 350Z studs have a larger knurl diameter than the 240Z studs. I used the ARP studs for the Camaro (PN 100-7713) with a knurl diameter of 0.509" and they went in tight. The 350Z studs mentioned have a knurl diameter of 0.565" so you will need to drill out the holes in your hubs to use them.

[Tony D]

The 350Z studs have a larger knurl diameter than the 240Z studs. I used the ARP studs for the Camaro (PN 100-7713) with a knurl diameter of 0.509" and they went in tight. The 350Z studs mentioned have a knurl diameter of 0.565" so you will need to drill out the holes in your hubs to use them.

 

I did not experience this whatsoever. I punched out my Nissan Studs, and pulled the Nismo 350Z Long Studs into the 260 Hub with the lug nuts. There formerly was only one long stud part number 240/260/280Z so I can't reconcile not having to drill out my hubs, as the originals were tight tight tight. I'm dealing in Nissan Parts here, no aftermarket stuff.

 

Are you saying the ARP studs are that size? I would say finding out the original interference tolerance is key to determine which reamer to use to open up the holes incrementally. I would not use a drill for <0.050" hole increase... that's reamer time.

 

To the OP, my point was "parts is parts" it has absolutely nothing to do with having an L-Engine in the car. It has to do with using Chevy Parts in a Datsun when the parts you don't have aren't available through the OEM. If the ARP Studs are the same size as the NISMO 350Z studs, they should fit exactly like the NISMO 350Z studs. Same as Doorman 350Z Studs, same as Lawson 350Z Studs...etc etc etc... Hence "Same for Vendor Crosses"... NISMO, ARP, Doorman, Lawson are all vendors, and they all have a cross-reference for that part ("Vendor Crosses")

[beermanpete]

I know the ARP 100-7713 studs are 0.509" per the ARP catalog and they went in to my 240Z hubs rather tight. As I recall the Doorman studs for the 240Z are few mils smaller. The ARP studs for the 350Z mentioned in post 21 have a diameter of 0.565" per the page at ForcedFab the link took me to. The ARP catalog does not show 350Z studs so there is no corroboration there. The ForcedFab data must be incorrect.

[NewZed]

You can dink around on the Dorman site getting the search format right and choosing the right numbers, to find some options.  Other sites, like Summit Racing, tend to have explicit descriptions too, that will let you narrow a search.  It takes a few iterations.  Oreilly Auto is another site that has detailed part descriptions.  I've found also, that using the the "site" term in Google will find many things that a company's own search engine won't find.

 

I usually make one search to see the format, then just replace numbers with partial numbers, like 0.5 instead of 0.509, to narrow.

 

Here's the Dorman page and an option.  It could be narrowed further with a specific knurl diameter, the 610-409 part just happened to be on the first page.

 

http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=wheel+stud+M12-1.50+Serrated+Wheel+Stud

 

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32691-610-409.aspx?origin=keyword

 

 

Edit - meant to add also, that the OReilly and Dorman sites both show the 350Z as a .5649" knurl.  I used 2006 as the year.

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/610378/02990.oap?year=2006&make=Nissan&model=350Z&vi=1433005&ck=Search_wheel+stud_02990_1433005_-1&keyword=wheel+stud&pt=02990&ppt=C0337

 

http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=610-378

 

 

And, sites like OReilly have a "Compatibility" page for each part that shows the cross-reference Tony D mentioned.  Pretty handy.

Edited June 5, 2014 by NewZed

[Tony D]

Some of us long for the days when the cigarette smoking counterman would turn the catalog stand around, and say "Pull up a stool and have at it!" No guff about what it was for, or what it came from, I need X dimension, and Y dimension...oh, you got one in back, lets take a look and see if I need to order in some more!

 

I had a regional place like that, had to drive 30-45miles to get there... but were known for literally having "ONE" of everything from EVERY hardware catalog they had on the store counter. The salesmen would come in with an 'additions sheet' and they would simply sign off on it. Everybody in the area knew if you needed to SEE if something fit, you could go there, check it, and make the order.

 

At that time, this backstabbing crap didn't occur nearly as much as it does now. If you screwed them on the part after seeing it fit, chances were good the next time "nope, someone must've bought that one for a sample"...

 

The honorable thing was if you were going to use their stock to test, you at least bought the sample at retail and went where you could get it cheaper. You gave them SOMETHING for their having it on-hand...