agita Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) Hello, I'm Agita. I just bought a 240z that is in decently bad shape. It's rusted pretty bad in places and the driver's side panels will need to be replaced. The hood is damaged where some idiot used a crowbar to open it..... not kidding.....what a jerk. Most all of the interior plastic panels are in really good shape, one or two have small cracks that I'm not entirely worried about. One has two holes cut out for speakers..... sadly. I bought a whole driver's door in good condition minus a rust spot the size and shape of a quarter. Much better than the giant dent in mine. I also picked up a cowl that was without damage to replace the damaged one where the idiot with the crowbar used it as a brace to pop the hood. It's a 1970 240z. HLS30-02603 made in March of 1970 I've lurked here for a long while but now I'm gonna jump in. Lots of pics. Please feel free to comment or point anything out. I'm learning and researching as much as I can but I'm far from knowledgeable. I have lots of pictures and am willing to take a pic of anything you would like to see in specific. OK, I don't really know where to start, but the first thing would be the driver's floorboard. I've read about it a lot, and payed close attention to tutorials and all forms of processes listed here and elsewhere. ( feel free to link suggestions, I love reading about it ) I'm reasonably certain that I can replace the floorboards without problem, but I'm concerned about where the seatbelt bolts in near the door. The entire panel twisted out when I went to take the seatbelt off. (see the pic below) Is it okay to just weld in a strong panel then make a place for the seatbelt? Lots more, but lets start there and see what you guys think. Edited May 13, 2014 by agita Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmagno Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) Nice one. 1970 with some characteristics only made that year is desireable among enthusiasts. Best thing to do is find a donor car (easier said than done) to cut replacement metal off for your car. Search 240z forum in Google and start posting WTB in the parts sections. You will find that a lot of Z lovers are more than willing to help you to see it brought back to life. Welcome and good luck. Edited May 13, 2014 by Gmagno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogriz91 Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Come out to ZDayZ this Saturday for some motivation, it's not too far from where you're at. www.zdayz.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 As much as I hate to see a Z scrapped, I think you should really consider getting another shell. You would have to be a very patient person with a lot of time and fab skills to fix that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 It is rough. But a 1970 will be worth fixing. As stated above there are parts available. If you do not have a parts car someone does and may not need the parts you do. If you do not weld consider taking welding classes at a community college. You will need to become skilled before touching the thin metal on a Z. If you have the skills you are ahead of the game. A 70 deserves a bare metal start. Just my opinion. Do not be in a hurry, that car is deep in the hurt box and will take lots of time and money to be brought back to life in whatever form you choose. Make a plan and you will revise the plan as things progress and different parts become available to you. Before it is done you may alter your plan slightly numerous times. However a hurried job will be evident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) You would have to be a very patient person with a lot of time and fab skills to fix that. Agreed. Edited May 13, 2014 by 310z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agita Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 Hi all and Thanks for the responese, I'm not versed in fiberglass and don't much like it,..... so I'm a welding guy, I'm pretty good with MIG, TIG, and Torch welding. I'm actively hunting a doner car right now. I'll have a go at it in the next little while and I'll keep this posed with updates. Starting with the floors and the driver's side inner rocker panels. I was just gonna use ~16 gage stainless for the floors possibly bead rolled. Opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmagno Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) Starting with the floors and the driver's side inner rocker panels. I was just gonna use ~16 gage stainless for the floors possibly bead rolled. Opinions? That all depends on how much time and patience you have. I just bought a set of floors and rails shipped to the door this week for $398.00. This is a reputable source for quality and fitment. http://www.datsunzparts.com/ Edited May 13, 2014 by Gmagno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 It's good to hear you can already weld. I would use 20gauge for the floors, since that's about what the original sheet metal is. Not sure why you brought up stainless. I personally don't know of a way to weld stainless to regular steel. You can get replacement floors from Zed Findings or Tabco. As for the donor car... I'll be honest, I don't see the point. If the car is worse off than yours, it won't be any good as a sheet metal donor. If it's nicer than yours, it would make more sense to scrap your shell and use that one. Yes, you have an early '70, which makes it a little more desirable, but not that much more desirable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Run away from that chassis as fast as you can. Rust never sleeps, forgives nor forgets. Cars never say "thanks." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agita Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 ROFL, I like this place already. I have lots of metal, I was just thinking of going a bit thicker. Believe it or not the passenger side has very little rust. The front fender and the door are without rust completely, although I intend to take them to bare metal and rust-proof everything I can get to. I've already got the drivers door, and a lead on a good fender. The rear one looks to be a pain though. Blackdragon has the rear fender but It's hard to make out what they are. I intend to call them soon to ask for clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwvigo Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 I wish you all the luck in the world on your build. Will be fun to see were it goes by the looks of it the only way it can go is up. But take your time and do not rush is the best advice I can give and is the best I have been given. Run away from that chassis as fast as you can. Rust never sleeps, forgives nor forgets. Cars never say "thanks." ^ Keith Is correct though on rust I love the way he put that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agita Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 I've removed the dash this weekend. Pics coming soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz44 Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Hey. Congrats on the getting a Z. Another 240z in NC. I agree with the fellow z members. Take time, inspect and make a plan. Check out "fixmyrust.com" for a few cheap repair parts. Best luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdreView Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 I'm in the process of cutting out and repairing the rust on my 2+2 which has only 10-15% rusted floor boards, firewall and front wheel wells. I would never take on the amount of rust seen in the photos you posted. There are many other early 70's coupes out there to start with with much less rust. This one looks like every exterior panel has damage and the entire interior will require replacement, god knows the condition of the frame and drivetrain. The money and time you'll spend on restoration of this Z is better off spent buying an almost restored early Z and finishing it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agita Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) My girlfriend and myself broke up a while back and I lost interest in pretty much everything I was doing. I haven't touched my projects or hobbies in a few months. I finally got up to looking at my Z again and ordered a whole rear quarter panel from 88dangerdan. It should be here very soon. I got my sandblaster out and pulled off my front fender and sandblasted under it. I'll look for a FF next. I also sandblasted inside and scraped everything out. I took out the dash for repair and am getting ready to cut out the floorboards. I know that my pictures aren't that good but give me a little slack pls I'll be cutting out the floor this week hopefully. And I'll also be attempting to remove my glass to go ahead and sandblast the whole thing. Edited July 28, 2014 by agita Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz44 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 You Z is your friend... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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