Ylo73z Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Swapped in the wolf creek cv shafts on my 77 280z and now it has a nasty vibration / grinding noise , but only forward loaded , checked it on the jack stands , nothing , backed up , nothing , put it back in drive and accelerated and it vibrates ...I'm sure it's simple ......all cv alignment and adapters looks good when rolling on jack stands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Axle rubbing on swaybar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 I actually found that it is rubbing on the right side inner joint on the control arm ....not sure how I'm going to approach this yet but I think I'm going to try and make a washer to shim the mustach bar up to raise the diff up and hopefully keep the inner cv joint off the control arm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 And yeah , the outer boot on the passenger side is rubbing the sway bar ...not sure how to deal with this yet ...I'm thinking longer or shorter end links Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Consider ditching the sway bar, it's the simple solution, and it doesn't contribute much to how the car drives and is just dead weight. Interesting that the boot is rubbing the control arm, I didn't have that problem. Pics if it is ever convenient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share Posted June 1, 2014 Yeah I can take a picture today , I pretty much only straight line my car , so I was thinking about ditching the away bar but I was worried about how the car would plant removing the sway bar , I was also thinking of just getting longer endings to raise the sway bar away from the cv boot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share Posted June 1, 2014 I cleared the control arm by cutting the inner sleeve on the mustache bar bushing then replacing the old lower bushings , cutting the sleeve allowed me to tighten the nuts a 1/4" further before bottoming out , I also hit the control arm with a grinder to make sure it was clear , once I deal with the sway bar I will road test as again and give the results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 If it is a straight line car, ditch the sway bar for sure. I hope you red locktited the nuts that connect the adapters to the stock stubs on each end.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 No I didn't , 4.11s are coming out in exchange for the 4.60s LSD , stock adapter flanges and stub axles are coming out for billet units , then I'll locktight everything , put on the trans brake and see what a r200 can take Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Good, cause two of us have had them loosen up. I check all my drivetrain bolts regularly and you can't check those hidden parts. I worry about the parts I can't inspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 I'm going to make some 1/8th mile passes and some street miles cruising ...no locktight I'll see how much they loosen up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 4.60 gears? You are going to be one shifting sonofagun! What's your power plant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 It's a long rod 14:1 compression 383 stroker motor , AFR heads , roller motor ,ect . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 upload photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 upload photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 You are the first guy I've seen post WC axles on a high powered drag car. Please keep us posted on how they perform. What tire do you plan to race on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ylo73z Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 I run the hoosier quick time pro's 26x9.5 15 I will flare the car and I plan on getting at least another 2 inches under there in the near future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I don't understand how you are hitting anything. Below is a pic of my Wolf Creek CV swap with ST sway bars. I have great clearance on both sides. I did shorten the end link (spacer) slightly so I would not hit anything on full droop (when the car is jacked). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 His rub on the inside CV. You're showing the outside. How close are yours on the inside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 ktm-are you R180 or R200? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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