Sectioned struts are too low, HELP! (PICS)

[socorob]

So your rears are preloaded to full extension and it still rides ok? I was worried about that because if mine wont be all the way they will probably be close.

[RebekahsZ]

Well... I adjusted them with the tire off and the car in the air. Then I used a spanner wrench and cranked as hard as I could. I put the tire back on and set the car down. Did it squat any with the car's weight? I dunno...well, with that setup it drives fine on the highway and at the dragstrip. I haven't autocrossed it yet.

Edited July 15, 2014 by RebekahsZ

[Hypertek]

run a thinner tire or not so aggressive offset (if you dont like the "stance kids") and you will be good..

Edited July 15, 2014 by Hypertek

[Tony D]

I'm with JM on the cut---the outer inner fenderwell goes away, and the wheel arch turns into a semi-tub from the seam where the inner and outer wheel arches come together---out to the body countour of the car. The ZG Flare then becomes what your inner arch formerly was.... That would fit 295/575R-14's on 14X13 Watanabes in back with plenty of arch clearance. It was really designed to cover 14X10's out back.

The Later Isolators up top will also give you height as stated.

 

Depending on your car's weight against preload and spring rate will determine what 'squat' it will have.

Edited July 15, 2014 by Tony D

[Krinkov]

Just because somebody else does it doesn't mean it's a good idea. I am to the point now where actually I hate seeing Z cars with ZG flares because almost every single one has them mounted too low. 

 

 

But all the cool kids were mounting them low, I just wanted to be cool too!! 

 

but yeah it turns out that was the biggest problem, after I got the the arches cut out and raised the flares up today everythings sitting right. I purposely installed the the flares lower first just to be safe since I knew I could go higher but once their cut i cant go lower. I might still go a higher on the flares but Im certain now I dont need to raise the car any higher. thanks guys! 

 

Edited July 15, 2014 by Krinkov

[RebekahsZ]

Very cool car. Try to plan for body roll and bump compression. Cars that you can look at for flare placement pictures that are actually being driven hard/raced include: SunnyZ, duragg, MiKelly.

[johnc]

My instructions for strut shortening assume a normal race sized tire (225/50-15s) and a goal of improved handling and performance.  I thought that was obvious by Wayne Bernstien's preface in the Strut Sectioning FAQ.  When you start changing parameters (like increasing tire OD by 2" in your example) then you have to adjust.  Terry's comments on the thread cover that.

[Krinkov]

My instructions for strut shortening assume a normal race sized tire (225/50-15s) and a goal of improved handling and performance.  I thought that was obvious by Wayne Bernstien's preface in the Strut Sectioning FAQ.  When you start changing parameters (like increasing tire OD by 2" in your example) then you have to adjust.  Terry's comments on the thread cover that.

 

Jon Im not sure where you are getting 2 inches from, but 245/45/16s are only 1/2" more OD than 225/50/15s (24" vs 24.5") and believe me I agonized trying to find a decently wide tire in 15 or 16 that kept it as close to 24" OD as possible, the 245/45/16s were the best choice. 

[johnc]

Sorry, I combined 225/50-14s and 225/45-15s in my head.  Either of those tires (typical NASA, SCCA, VARA, and SVRA race tire sizes) are 22.9" while the 245/45-16s are 24.7" in OD.  I ran 275/45-16s on my race car and shortened the struts 1" and 1.5".  Ride height was 6.5" front and 6.75" rear.