Hypertek

Watanabe Type R 15x9.5 -19 15x10.5 -34 to Work Equip 03 15x9.5 -34 15x10.5 -34

The $300 or so for the marugen shoukai flares is not that expensive when you consider it is a long term/permanent item you will be modifying your car for. Why put any other on? All the stateside stuff is like said above, copy of copy of copy in which is pumped out for low buck mass production to profit imo. Where as any part from Japan generally is a direct copy but the quality control behind it is alot more accurate. A buddy suggested the marugen flares for mine, couldnt be happier There are soo many bad fitting flares out there, that once you see it, its hard to unsee lol

Looking for one. Let me know. Shipped to 92570 California. Thanks

very nice. I may do this to my Z

wonder how the inside of it looks like, to build a similar induction box

Ok not sure why my original post wasnt showing up, but i posted about the old hks turbo kit for the l20 engine http://www.ebay.com/itm/222164307456?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Was watching that on ebay and decided to pass on it as i couldnt find much user input on it since its mega rare jdm. But i wanted to see what everyones opinions are on it? According to hks history site, they list it around 1977 (but they did introduce the first l20 turbo kit in 74) http://www.hks-global.com/en/history/index.html

Ok not sure why my original post wasnt showing up, but i posted about the old hks turbo kit for the l20 engine http://www.ebay.com/itm/222164307456?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Was watching that on ebay and decided to pass on it as i couldnt find much user input on it since its mega rare jdm. But i wanted to see what everyones opinions are on it? According to hks history site, they list it around 1977 (but they did introduce the first l20 turbo kit in 74) http://www.hks-global.com/en/history/index.html

i had one of their first batches.. i can only hope they improved over time.. otherwise i too wish i just went with authentic BRE (can never go wrong with authentic parts, fitment will always be better). Mine didnt have any mounting hardware.. so i had to install rivnuts. ANd it also started splitting so i filled it with fiberglass resin, so seems to be holding up better. https://www.instagram.com/p/BDlm3zui-D_/

I decided to slot mine https://www.instagram.com/p/9R0Nxai-Gm/?taken-by=gstyle_s30

the marugen shoukai flares are already a bargain at the price they sell from rhdjapan. please dont copy them for profit like the countless others.. =( Take pride in owning a part made in japan. Shipping of the marugen flares from rhdjapan doesnt even take that long either.

As title says, I may be interested in a r200 4.11 diff for my 260z. Let me know, thanks =)

I got the cheap harbor freight setup and a toaster oven. I did my fender mirrors.. Came out pretty good. Just dont use their powder coats since they are not UV stable. but powder coat by the pound is cheap online. Cheap alternative if you just want to do small parts that can fit into a toaster oven. I got the toaster oven at walmart, tried to get the cheapest biggest one possible. I havent done any thing else.

This is where a coilover setup like stance/bc would have been a better option, the homework is already done for you. Coilover helper springs might help a little bit http://s123.photobucket.com/user/whitehse/media/IMG_1700.jpg.html

Make sure you get a new gasket.. Make sure your exhaust system can bolt up to your headers.. It can open up a can of worms if things don't mate.. may give you an excuse to do full exhaust.. While your at it, you can consider stripping down some of the unnecessary emissions stuff etc. When i had my headers off, I masked everything up and painted the engine block.. It came out looking great!! Just something you can do while your at it.

yup. I dont have pics of mine, but you can just match up the diameter sizes and go to your local auto store.. Generally Napa is the place that has fuel vapor hoses. I find that autozone doesnt really have anything for fuel vapor hoses. I think i spent near or under $100 (i dont remember).. rather buy more hose length, than to come up short. But at least i didnt have to wait and pay shipping etc. Also, there is a hose out of the gas tank that has to make a U-bend.. i found using an ez-coil perfect for that, so the hose doesnt kink.

you can get the struts rebuilt http://fealsuspensionstore.com/coilover-services/#coilover-1

Hey guys, just installing a speedhut fuel level gauge in my 260. New fuel sending unit already installed. Im wondering about calibrating it. Do i need to drain all the fuel and than fill it all the way up to calibrate? or can I use one of the pre-set ohm readings on it? Just gonna be a pain to empty the tank and fill it all the way up just to set it. I know if it needs to be done though, then i guess I will do it.

I took the nozzle out I think maybe they are both just seized, maybe from sitting for years with the choke on or off.

Ok im pretty new to carbs in general. Im trying to adjust the jets and they seem stuck (both of them). Any suggestion on freeing them up? I can turn the knob any direction but the jets dont move up or down. Car sat over 10 years.. I got the car running but figured everything i should set to baseline and tune it first.

There are a ton of datsun guys in the socal region =) Next big show is Nissfest, check it out http://nissfest.com/

A new one is always nice, might as well change the thermostat too, and fresh coolant =) Guess I didn't mind changing mine since the car was sitting for 10+ years anyways and half the housing had been eaten away from years of what i assume was crap water lol

Alright guys, my z when i got it, had a dash cap glued on it. And my gauges didn't work, so do diagnose them and replace them, i obviously had to rip the cap off due to the caps blocking the gauge holes. I honestly think a glued cap did more damage to the dash than the actual cracks in the first place.. as the glue used rips off parts of the dash when removed. Items I used so far is Great Stuff foam to fill in the cracks, than some SEM multi-plastic repair, some primer, and some rocker panel guard spray (body shop didn't have texture paint, but he thought this would be just as good). And a can of SEM trim black. The bodyshop let me rent the mix gun with a deposit for the sem multi plastic (otherwise that tool is over $100 alone!). I ran out of the SEM multi-plastic repair (that stuff is expensive), so i bought some bondo epoxy bumper repair just to fill any little spots i missed. BTW a DA Sander is a good investment for this job. Luckily most of the 260/280 dash is pretty straight, so the only part that really needed to be done by hand was around the gauges. I bought a 6" HF sander just for this with 80 grit and 120grit paper. I used mostly the 80grit. This was after the primer and rocker panel guard.. Now the rocker panel guard did leave a nice rubberized finish, but not the exact texture I want. I did notice that there are still some blemishes.. I just placed an order on amazon for the SEM texture black paint as that is what everyone commonly uses with good results. I do have a few pinholes that I now see, and a few areas that still need a little more sanding/filler. I did start sanding a little bit to knock out some of the blemishes.. I was wondering, for you guys that have done it, Just how perfect does the surface have to be in order to look near perfect? Will the SEM texture black hide alot of the blemishes in the surface? I mean i can put a little more effort into trying to get it as best I can, since id prefer this to be a one time job to last me a few years.

Awesome thanks! Guess ill have to go measure the diameter tomorrow

Ok guys im trying to finish restoring my 260z dash this weekend. and before I throw it back in, id like to replace the old ducting hoses.. these obviously broke apart upon removal. Figure the only time to replace them is with the dash fully out. Is there a source for these? Or any generic universal stuff I can get at an auto parts store? thanks

tight budget, than id just look for a better condition car, would save you a ton of time and money!