joker81 Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 This thread is proof that searching the forums will usually get you your answer. I just purchased some 225/50R/15 tires for my 72. And I’m very close to buying some SSR MKIII wheels. I was however worried about the offset because I don’t know all that much about tire fitment and all that good stuff but this thread basically answered my question that the best bet for the offset is 0 and the the sizes of 7.0 in the front and 7.5 in the rear should be more than adequate for normal street driving. Gotta love this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THUNDERZ Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 225/50-15s are a perfect performance size for a 15 x 8 wheel. I ran that size for years on mu autocross and TT 240Z. I've also run 225/50-14s on 14 x 7 wheels where the rules required a 14" wheel. Those worked great also. John, What would you suggest the best solution to be if the tie rod end is rubbing on the inner part of the front wheels? I am assuming this is because I installed roll center spacers...? I have 15x8 ...0 offset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Either take the spacers out or machine them down 1/4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Some outter tierod ends have the zerk on the side and others have the zerk on the top where the wheel rubs. You can remove the zerk and plug the hole or get tierod ends with the zerk on the side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THUNDERZ Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Either take the spacers out or machine them down 1/4" Would Quick Steering Knuckles solve the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 No, wait... maybe. You'll have to measure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THUNDERZ Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 No, wait... maybe. You'll have to measure. OK...The Arizona QS knuckles are 10mm shorter....I'll check into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 ThunderZ, can you post a pic of the interference? Cast alloy wheels tend to have more room on the back side than steel wheels. I'd like to see where your problem is. Spacers (even a thin spacer) can help too depending on where the interference is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THUNDERZ Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) Here it is... Edited October 25, 2014 by THUNDERZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Thanks for the pic. So, you have both a lateral and a diameter problem. I THINK you'd be golden with the shortened knuckles....I guess you've tried grabbing the tie rod end and twisting it a few degrees to make the zerk point straight down? When I ran 15s, I ground a little off my tie rod ends to get that last few mm of clearance. I will probably be doing shortened knuckles and electric steering assist in 2015 if I can get all the parts I have horded up installed over the winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 I wonder what would happen if you took off the knuckles, put them in a vice, heated them red hot with a torch and bent them in a bit....I know we all fear heat stresses, but that's how a hot rodder in the 50s would likely handle this. You would need to have the requisite remaining adjustment threads available on your inner tie rods to absorb the shortening of the system.. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Have you tried a 1/4" spacer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THUNDERZ Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) I havent tried a spacer. I hadnt really considered heating and bending the knuckle either. I may try grinding the edge of the TR end since these are going to be thrown away anyway. If grinding works then I can grind down my new TR ends. If not I am thinking QS knuckles or possibly these: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Edited October 26, 2014 by THUNDERZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THUNDERZ Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 John, When you were running this size wheel you didnt run into this issue with your TT 240 car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Here is what my orange car looked like with 225-50ZR15 tires on 15x8 zero offset wheels. The problem is that there are not a lot of tire choices anymore in this size. You can get DOT competition tires, and then Falken. That's about it. I've got this set of P1 Racing wheels that are 15x8 with a 5" back space. They require coil overs, but they tuck nicely inside stock fenders. They are for sale if anyone is interested. PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 I am an *******..... go balls out, cut the fenders, BAMF flares and you will get 315/35/17 and 275/40/17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 When you were running this size wheel you didnt run into this issue with your TT 240 car? No issues on the ITS 240Z with 14" wheels, but we couldn't run the steering arm spacers. On my track 240Z with 15" wheels I did have a slight problem but I cut the spacers down about .083" and fixed it. Not an issue when I ran 16" wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THUNDERZ Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) No issues on the ITS 240Z with 14" wheels, but we couldn't run the steering arm spacers. On my track 240Z with 15" wheels I did have a slight problem but I cut the spacers down about .083" and fixed it. Not an issue when I ran 16" wheels. Thanks John ...I'll give that a whirl. Edited October 30, 2014 by THUNDERZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlbatrossCafe Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 On 8/24/2014 at 7:33 AM, johnc said: 15 x 8s pretty much require coil overs and for racing there is a noticeable difference in performance between a 7 and 8" wheel when running 225s. To get the most out of that wheel and tire combo you need to get 1/16" rear toe in and at least 1.5 degrees of negative camber in the rear suspension. It's all about the back of the car with 15 x 8s. What exactly would that difference be, and why would a 7" vs 8" wheel affect it that much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 8 hours ago, AlbatrossCafe said: What exactly would that difference be, and why would a 7" vs 8" wheel affect it that much? Try to be aware of the date of the post you are replying to. That is 3 years old and, most tragically, that member is no longer with us. I am guessing that John was seeing performance increase from sidewall stiffness and contact patch, as a result of the wider rim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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