2jztank Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Thanks man i really appreciate you chiming in and helping, i will get this information to you ASAP. I did notice that my plugs was not gapped properly "a very poor overlook on my part" however i have them gapped now. I will get teh battery recharged also. I left the engine bay worklight on by accident and it killed the battery. Again thanks i really appreciate the help and wisdom i have recieved in my time so far on this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Any progress, 2JZtank? When you figure out the problem, this thread will be valuable for helping other people get their cars running. In addition, I admire the way you're taking criticism from the other members. I've been on many enthusiast forums where the original poster (ie: you) would have devolved into a tantrum by now. Hell, *I* would probably have devolved into a tantrum by now! By and large we're a crotchety bunch, but the way people keep coming back to help shows that they really do care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2jztank Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 (edited) First let me say thanks for the kind words RPMS, i am a IT guy by profesion and one of the main things i learned in this prefession is to be humble to those withteh knowledge and experience. Plus i really appreciate all the help i have had thus far it has brought my Z to a great point. Now onto the rest, Compression on the motor is great and after looking over the AFM "which has not been tampered with on the inside from what i can tell" the screw on the side was screwed all the way in. After adjusting the screw outwards some i was able to get the idle set to 800 rpms and even when warm no issues staying running. So she runs and will remain running. However there is another issue i have ran into and i think i might have the solution but i want to run it by you guys first. Once the my Z is running there is a small popping from the exhaust so i was thinking maybe she is running to rich but even the smallest adjustement to the idle screw on the side of the AFM and i would be greeted with intake pops. So i am kind of stumped. I will pull my plugs again today i believe i gapped them around .35 and information i found suggest they should be gapped from .43-.45. If this is true ill just replace my plugs with new ones gapped properly. I also cleaned all connections to sensors and made sure they was connected properly. If there is something im missing or should double check please let me know also, and again i really appreciate all the help big time it has gotten me this far and im sure that i am close to finally experiencing all this Z has to offer. Edited November 20, 2014 by 2jztank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Just before you get yelled out, gentle reminder to the capital letter rule. Have you checked your timing how many degrees btdc are you? Have you made sure the order of the plugs (1-5-3-6-2-4 iirc)? Is the popping under load or when you are off the throttle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Once the my Z is running there is a small popping from the exhaust so i was thinking maybe she is running to rich but even the smallest adjustement to the idle screw on the side of the AFM and i would be greeted with intake pops. So i am kind of stumped. I will pull my plugs again today i believe i gapped them around .35 and information i found suggest they should be gapped from .43-.45. If this is true ill just replace my plugs with new ones gapped properly. Gapping plugs wider won't affect the popping. L6's used the small gap up until 1978. You might be too focused on the small stuff. How does the engine run when you're driving the car? The idle air screw really only affects idle mixture. Popping at idle could be cross-fire between bad plug wires, an imbalance between injector flows, bad valve settings, etc. You can try to isolate it to one cylinder by removing the injector connectors one at a time. You didn't say if the popping is at idle only or when revving or when driving. Intake popping could be an overall lean mixture or a cylinder with bad valve action, either a worn exhaust lobe or bad lash setting. Intake popping when driving is a common sign of an AFM with lean spots. Just some random thoughts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2jztank Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 My apologies NewZed i didnt mention that, The popping noise occurs both at idle and while driving its coming from the exhaust though more of backfire/popping sound. the car feels like it doesnt have as much get up and go as i know it should have as well. * while at idle- the occasional low tone pop no smoke, revs freely * low rpm's- constant exhaust popping no loss of power but drives and does not stall no smoke * mid-high rpm's- i tested it once but from what i observed the cruising speeds and rpms' (when i wasnt pressing on the gas pedal) very few pops. One question can you explain the cross-fire between bad plugs, and another note i havent taken apart the actual engine (i.e valve cover or internals) is this something you think needs to happen. I kind of prefer not to if possible but if the engine is requiring this i think i would much rather swap the engine for a more modern engine. Not to say it will not have its trouble but its very frustrating owning a vehicle which has such a tempermental engine. I come from more a toyota background and have swapped and worked on many 2jz swaps with no issues, but it feels like the l28e just has problem after problem. But enough venting please tell me how i can further diagnose and again i really appreciate all your help in this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 The very first item in the Tune Up chapter is adjust valve lash. It has a big effect. If you're going to swap engines to avoid adjusting lash, there's little point in continuing this thread. Swap that 2jz in there. Seriously. I'm going to guess that you haven't even removed a spark plug yet. Many people enjoy these engines because it's easy to get in and get your hands dirty. They're not like today's 100,000 miles between tuneups engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2jztank Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 (edited) Actually i have removed more parts on this engine then even i thought i had lol. In any event as i stated above i have looked into adjusting the lash and plan to attempt it this weekend. However i dont have the tools or time to pull the engine and break it down is what i meant by that. Sorry if that caused some confusion if it gets to a point where the engine needs to be removed for work i would rather swap the engine is what i meant by my previous statement. Again sorry if i didnt present that better. However theres no need to insult me by stating you feel i havent removed a spark plug when clearly i have logged and performed way more then that. I could also post pictures if it would help to convince you as well. Either way i am just looking for some friendly help on the matter. Because in my city/state i have not ran into anyone else who is knowledgable with the l28e and can personally help or any other Z owners also. Thanks and i hope this does not deter you from helping with my Z . Edited November 20, 2014 by 2jztank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Insult is in mind of the beholder. Or something like that. I gave you a perspective on your position in this forum's community of people who tear down, rebuild, and modify complete cars, engines, and transmissions. You're way down at the bottom. I'm not far above myself. It's not clear that you've done much at all. Sorry about the plug comment. I got you confused with another guy who's having simple problems like yours. Your comment about avoiding removing a valve cover sent me there. You would have to remove the plugs to check cylinder pressure. Although, you didn't give any cylinder pressure numbers so you might be judging "great compression" by sound. Who knows. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 (edited) Newzed does have a point, the spark plug gap being too close is most likely not the culprit. I mean if you do it too close there might not be enough time for the arc to light the fuel mixture, but you sound like you are in the ball park so that is really unlikely. Still would like the timing info, especially if you have played with the spark plugs, it really is possible to have mistakenly swapped the plug order or have bumped the distributor out of place and have changed your timing. It wouldn't hurt to pop the spark plugs out and put them in order, label them and snap a picture, that would be another very useful piece of information. Without those facts, I might go out on a branch and say it sounds like a lean condition (this could be confirmed with that picture I mentioned above, down to the cylinder/s) If you are lean, under light load you would be popping, once you hit wot though the ecu should dump quite a bit more, that may be modern thinking though, not too familiar with the efi system that comes factory. Would have to do a bit of digging to confirm. Suspicions lie with the ecu/afm/fuel pressure/regulator if all of them are white. If only select ones are, then I would suspect maybe the individual injectors or clogged fuel lines/filter. My personal problem with this was a wonky fuel pump relay that liked to flicker on and off and would make me pop under load or long throttle trips. I know it may sound redundant, but without some hard facts it is hard to determine where we stand. Like do you get full fuel pressure? What is the pressure reading, does the pressure drop when you rev the engine? How's the fuel filter? Bottom line, get us that picture and maybe a picture of the spark plug wires, it may seem silly, but it is pretty easy to make an error if you are not familiar. Keep it up man, just remember, we need them facts and pictures. Edited November 24, 2014 by seattlejester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2jztank Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Happy new years everyone, and i am sorry for the super late response between getting married and holidays and my kids i kind of been busy. Now onto business, my Z is running great and the resolution at the very end of it was my spark plugs being improperly gapped. After returning the gap to proper measures my Z cranked up with no issues purrs steady and has plenty power. I have drove her quite a few times since the fix and she idles, drives, and feels great. Now i want to say something there is a sense of joy that i haven't felt in a long time with working on these machines and getting things fixed. My intentions are to stick with the l28e for another year or so and see which direction i might want to go IF i feel the need for more power. However for now brakes and suspension are whats next on my list and after that bodywork. Thanks for all the advice and even boots to my bottom a couple times in here it helped me out a bunch and i cant to gain even more knowledge in the near future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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