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HybridZ

1971 240z restoration/build


Brendanm71240z

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Got the taillight gaskets in, they were outrageously priced but the car is slightly less smelly. Once I had the taillights off as well as the rear finisher I noticed that the area between the vertical and horizontal piece meet under the rear part of the hatch is rusted open into a nice crack, once paint and body comes around this area will need to be replaced.

 

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Also I decided that I'd had enough of the over sprayed door hinges, so I resprayed them after cleaning them up a bit.

 

Before-

 

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After- (looks way better and doesn't creak nearly as much)

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Good news today! My diamond racing wheels. 16x 10 with stock 114.3 spacing.

 

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But I am slightly concerned by the size and I haven't had a chance to test fit them yet but it looks like they are a bit larger than I ordered, it's probobly just measured from inside the wheel and I don't know it.can anyone shed some light on this?

 

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Yea they're fat. Can't wait to get them mounted.also the car just came back from the shop and got all the lights(pretty much) fixed and got a 280zx style ignition but is new. The lights went because of the fuse box going bad and now emits a fair amount of heat so a new one is in order. The ignition made the car run like butter, seriously so smooth.

 

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But the problem I still have is the engine will not rev past 5k. Any reason anyone knows why this would happen? Almost like hitting a rev limiter. Is it possible that the tach is slow and its actually going higher?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Been a while since I've updated, work getting done little by little. My brake master cylinder has had a slight leak for a while and I ordered a Taiwan made sayco master cylinder for cheap. Once it came thr imput shaft was too small so I paid three times as much for a used nabco one. Haven't installed it yet but it should work. It wasn't super pretty so I cleaned it up a bit and Painted it.

 

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After-post-46920-0-33034900-1428027181_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-31999500-1428027207_thumb.jpg

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Turns out I got the wrong master cylinder...again! Third times the charm right? My car is an early 71 and the one I got is for the later car anyways here's a car that was restored by Nissan and mine at the shop with the Orange one.

 

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In other news I got a new to me fuel rail since the other one was the wrong one in order to remove my running out of trip in the top end.

 

And also replaced fuel lines since they were all old and cracked and I don't a to light on firepost-46920-0-64721200-1428129549_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking at the fuel filter now it's showing some orange fuel... A fuel cell is in the future.also down the line some new hardlines for fuel and brakes. But finally go the proper master cylinder! Late model and early model 71 z master cylinder are not the same! The depth of the shaft on the late model is much deeper and therefore if you put it on a early brake booster it's not going to work. Also my brake booster even though was just a few months old had gotten some rust so I removed it cleaned it up and painted it.

 

Before- post-46920-0-62213200-1428890766_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-39914300-1428890886_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-23810200-1428890977_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-43655900-1428891009_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-24341600-1428891042_thumb.jpg

 

After-post-46920-0-66572500-1428891217_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-98946800-1428891265_thumb.jpg

 

Master cylinder direct from Nissan, it's a sweet part. Anyone else want my LATE MODEL 240z master cylinders?

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Got a special package yesterday-post-46920-0-21077900-1432152477_thumb.jpg

 

I'll be doing a write up on a step by step install since it arms like there really isn't one. Also I have gotten tired of looking at the rainbow of colors under the front cowl so I removed it cleaned it up and bedlinered it.

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While I'm under there the control arms are getting blasted and painted and new bushings as well, should make the car a much better place to be.

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Great move replacing the control arm bushings. The stockers in my z had a lot a play when I bought the car. Replacing those bushings made a big difference under hard braking and steering.

 

Looking forward to seeing your BC coilover install. I am doing the T3 coilover conversion this summer.

 

Awesome job on the front cowl, looks great. 

 

Bill 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Great move replacing the control arm bushings. The stockers in my z had a lot a play when I bought the car. Replacing those bushings made a big difference under hard braking and steering.

 

Looking forward to seeing your BC coilover install. I am doing the T3 coilover conversion this summer.

 

Awesome job on the front cowl, looks great. 

 

Bill

 

Thanks! It's the little things as they say. And I figured I might as well do it while I was in there. The bushings combines with the coilovers should really make a big difference in the way the car handles!

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Great move replacing the control arm bushings. The stockers in my z had a lot a play when I bought the car. Replacing those bushings made a big difference under hard braking and steering.

 

Looking forward to seeing your BC coilover install. I am doing the T3 coilover conversion this summer.

 

Awesome job on the front cowl, looks great. 

 

Bill

 

Thanks! It's the little things as they say. And I figured I might as well do it while I was in there. The bushings combines with the coilovers should really make a big difference in the way the car handles!

What are you doing with the rust? Since it seems like there is a lot of rust in the car. Are you sanding them to a metal line and painting over it or are you placing a specific material to replace the sanded areas. I'm asking because i might be getting a 240z with a lot of rust inside. I just want to prepare myself on what needs to be done since i want to do this all myself (Best  way to learn about building project car)!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Jonathanav95 which rust are you referring to? Some parts I have are getting blasted, acid dipped, and powder coated.other parts are getting the wire brush and rattle canned but as far as the body and main parts of the car nothing really for now as I am eventually getting the car completely dipped and new metal welded in where needed. As for choosing your project the best advice I can give is to say take your time and find a car that is rust free as possible. Any z car will have rust but the amount can make a huge difference on budget and time everything takes.

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  • 1 month later...

Things are moving steady on the Z.I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.

 

Things were looking a little ugly around here so it got cleaned up a bit-

 

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Here's a couple cool cars one is a real jdm right hand drive imported car from a navy guy, the other a super clean 280z 2+2 at a drag event in san diego. And of course old blue

 

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Some rusty old stuff....

 

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  • 1 year later...

Been a while since an update. I've quit my job to take a full load at school so progress has come to a snails pace however a little has changed.post-46920-0-31655900-1486780930_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-72497400-1486780938_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-68342000-1486780964_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-63860000-1486780953_thumb.jpgpost-46920-0-60458600-1486780945_thumb.jpg

 

Most recently my clutch began slipping during the replacement some interesting facts came to light. My car (71) has a 74 l26 and a 77 5 speed with what looks to me like the original  driveshaft which because of the different length of the tranny appears to be almost an inch too short. This hasn't ever given me issues but could it lead to them? The rear drums were garbage to start with and boot turned sideways and began digging into the drum (hope my drum brake lingo is accurate) so I ordered the silver mine rear brake conversion which was an easy install and have worked flawlessly since. Would highly recommend.

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