Tony D Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) Far more RB25's out there then, in that case. I can't wait to see the photos of your RB30/RB26. I guess Canada is special. Edited November 7, 2014 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger280zx Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 So... RB must be better because they are sitting around blown up all the time? Buy an RB30 block and a L28 bored to 3.0 throw em on a scale. Then tear them down and put the rod bearings, main bearings, rods, oil pump, etc out for comparison. That will answer the question "What is better about which one?". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeRiceburn Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 My main question would be the weight of this vs a standard rb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Here's a story: When I was younger I would watch my father buy a heap from the junkyard and spend 2-3 years restoring it until it's perfect. He was so meticulous, did suspension swaps that he enjoyed, sunk a lot of money into the projects.... only to drive it for a month and then sell it. He had no interest in driving, he just likes to build stuff. Look at the man hours involved in selecting a head, making a gear drive, a beautiful header, intake, block work, welding, porting, etc.... Do you actually think he selected this method to save time and money and go the shortest route possible? I'm pretty sure he's doing the work for a customer, god forbid he's charging hourly. It's unique, it's fun, what other excuse do you need to do it? If you are looking for an easy build, stuff all your money into an envelope, mail it to someone who does whatever engine you want, and wait. riger280zx, I didn't even think of it like that but I like it! I've always viewed it as the head complements the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeRiceburn Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Reading this blog in google translate has both enlightened me and confused me as to how Uncle Ryo overcame the oil and coolant issues of the RB head on the L series block. As well, what bellhousing would he have used to get the transmission to line up with the engine angle? A KA bellhousing? So much awesome work here to read about and it's a shame I don't know a lick of Japanese to understand it. I least I know that to aim the 400PS he thinks he also likes the little yakubusoku in super single. Anyone got any flow diagrams for the RB heads coolant and L series oil flow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 I don't think PMC on here made mention to coolant port alignment. I remember he noted an oil return by drilling and pipping from the back of the head to the oil pan. He was also running a belt drive for the cams so the entire timing chain area of the L block was plated off and dry from coolant and oil. What do you mean about the transmissions? It doesn't appear to be canted over heavily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeRiceburn Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 The oil drain is a technique used in most RB30 builds if I'm not mistaken. Looks like it has enough canter to affect the shifter to me, but I can't tell from the blog what he's done to fix that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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