MaritimeRiceburn

I've been trying to get the rear bumpers back on my 240 after being rechromed and I can't seem to get them to line up properly without either contacting the rear end in some way or form or being crooked at the rear mounting points. The FSM is a bit vague on installing the rear bumpers and I've got a few questions. Are the brackets supposed to slide easily onto the centre section of the rear bumper? Mine seem to rub on the threads as they go on and contact the inner back side of the bumper. What side of the car should the shorter arm on the bumper to car bracket be on? Are there washers present in the OEM installation to space out the bumper from the car? Any pictures or advice on installation would be appreciated

IIRC Several Ecoboost platforms have suffered from cooling issues ranging from minor things like oversized intercoolers to major overheating(Explorers/transits tended to grenade themselves and catch fire?). Carbon buildup fouling exhaust sensors is apparently a problem in most earlier engines leading to emissions system issues. The whole range burns oil, which has lead to several documented failures from lubrication issues(truth be told these were at the owner's fault for running the car dry, but still a potential problem for a used longblock buyer). The 2.3 in the Focus RS tends to blow headgaskets. I think what he means to say is that you should be very careful buying any used Ecoboost engine that didn't come from a crash and to check what model car it was sourced from, given the track record over various Ford platforms has been less than spectacular.

Wrong fenders?

If you want a shift gate pm or post a pic of one from directly above. I've got a 4 speed but not a 5

I'm looking for an outer flange bolt, nut and washer for a 240z half shaft. Located in Nova Scotia, will pay shipping.

Looking to get a panel from the latch area of an early 240z door, anyone got a door they can sacrifice and send to Canada?

I'd personally suggest using the datem (?) Points on the cowl and rockers. You can stick a pencil in them and get a close enough measurement. The chassis has something crazy like 4mm tolerances

Floorboard twisting at that level is definitely not a good sign. A 1/4" dent in my firewall area floor pan was enough to set my car off in the front end. Check the alignment of the headlight bucket, turn signal housing and the hood/fender. If they seem to be out of alignment that's a good indicati on of a frame issue. Unfortunately with the way these cars are designed the strut tower won't give you an indication of a collision, as the majority of the bend should occur in the firewall area of the frame rail, just after or before the taper.

Thank's for the replies, I'm going to shorten the end links as suggested and I'll post back when I've got that done

Just installed a suspension techniques swaybar on my car and noticed some clearance issues with the front frame rail. Looks like the bar will contact the seam when the suspension compresses. Is this a problem with the sway bar or do I need bump steer spacers to move my c arms down?

Looking for a driver's side door for an early s30. Located in Nova Scotia Canada but have a valid US mailing address as well.

Bump once again. I have a US address and US contacts, did a test fit of replacement frame rail, this is the area I am looking for:

bump, still looking. Located in Nova Scotia

I have a question about installing Zedd Findings replacement frame rails into the engine bay of my Z. Looking at the rails it appears that there are a few discrepancies between the stock rails and the replacements. It appears that the rails are missing a taper from the originals as well there seems to be some differences between the mounts for the tow hooks between OEM and replacement Could anyone who has done this replacement before shed some light on how they got around this. The frame rails is in good shape near the front and could be butt welded, but I'd think that wouldn't be an optimal solution.

Just finishing up the work on the inner rocker area of my 240 and got a question about the way the inner and out fender panel meet at the corner of the wheel well. Does anyone have a picture of that it should Look like? Do bot the inner and outer follow the same line here?

Gonna be honest, wasn't thinking physics through on the old bushing press and bent my control arm more than it already was. Now with my press bend the two bushing carriers for the spindle pin don't line up. Is it at all safe to bend these buggers back into shape or is it a trip to the classifieds to find someone who will ship to NS?

Looking for a piece of the inner window frame, part of the plate that becomes the drip rail around the back 1/4 window. Only looking for just the section pictured where brazing and damage is present but will buy the entire piece if it's more convenient for you. Apologies for the Large photo, wanted to make sure the area is clear.

I you're looking for a local printer try universities and colleges. Some will have public access printers in their libraries. Otherwise try googling "3d printers in *your area*", there are a few websites dedicated to mapping out 3d printers for locales. Don't expect amazing precision with theses for intricate inlaid patterns, but they'll get everything else right. If you have any pictures with diagrams and or measurements of what you need, I may be able to do a quick model for you this week.

Bumping to continue the search

If I recall correctly the reverse lights and ignition both use the same ground to the wiper motor. Also all of the tail lights as well as the dome light take power from the steering lock switch. All of these should be located on or go through the steering column, which has several matching connectors with differing functions. Have you played around with your combo switch lately? You may have accidentally interchanged some plugs. I know my 72 had an issue where the PO plugged a headlight into a turn signal.

Absolutely feasible. The only struggles you my meet are design and printer availibility. As lon as you can find a local abs printer with a opd resolution and can draw a circle in sketchup you can make the button no issues.

Still looking for the metal.

3d printing would be great for mocking up your designs, but it's probably a better approach to use the 3d printed part as a sacrifice for casting. Because of the process used for printing, the parts you make have a grain. This can easily lead into durability issues in parts with complex or tubular shapes like an intake without proper planning. Other than that what Tony D said would probably be your best bet. This would require some specific materials though (stainless manifold and PC ABS manifold?).

I'm looking for a section of the inner fender from the firewall until around the strut mounts. Anyone willing to sell this section?

The oil drain is a technique used in most RB30 builds if I'm not mistaken. Looks like it has enough canter to affect the shifter to me, but I can't tell from the blog what he's done to fix that.