Track day project

[aongch]

I'll keep updating here on my start-up project due to hit local tracks in 2015 like ACS, WSIR, Buttonwillow, etc. This will be a track "fun" project not for pro sanctions like SCCA, NASA etc, just tracking but at the same time logging improvements to seriously chase down higher hp, newer rides out there 

 

My goal is to get initial baselines and stepwise preps, and log gains and issues, while getting my RB26DETT Zilla sorted out. At least by now Baseline dyno was done, below runs were at just over 8.5 lbs boost with stock mafs on Dyno Dynamics (SAE corrected) taken at JER, Westminster CA

 

For starters, performance mods:

6-pt Roll cage, EMI Racing coilovers, Tokico Illuminas, Wilwood discs, Cusco bar, Hankook R-comps, etc... (Note those Wats are not for tracking, too valuable)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking....

Edited February 8, 2015 by aongch

[aongch]

First of, the interesting things you find out at dynos

 

First issue, there were a couple of bolt holes at the bottom of the RB26 block where the RB25 reversed oil pan bolted up that weren't sealed so at above 4K rpm, oil would start to spray out. The RB25 pan has an outward kink for the stock pick up but since installed reversed it ended up at this side of the block, so existing bolt holes had to be addressed. Inserted threaded bolt as plugs, sealed and smoothed off the heads. Fixed.

 

Second common minor issue, one of the intercooler silicone hoses weren't tight enough and car stumbled a bit afterwards. Fixed easily.

 

Edited November 22, 2014 by aongch

[aongch]

BTW the Autometer tach worked perfectly using this resistor bridged betw +12v and tach feed posts at the rear of the tach. No Tach Adapter needed.

 

[R3VO 3VOM]

Sweet looking project. My RB is coming out in the coming months to go to a new shell. Wish I had a 26 like you. Car looks awesome!

Nice to see the resistor mod works to get the tach to read; I've only read of people saying it works nobody actually to do it. I have the resistors just been hesitant to do it. I've had my autometer tach in my car forever now, but as I've driven it maybe 5 miles since doesn't bother me too much. And I really don't want to spend the extra money on an adapter. So I'll be doing this resistor modification.

[aongch]

R3VO, let me know how your tach works out, mine's been very stable so far, it's a draw down resistor for Autometer tachs.

 

BTW, here is my fitted track set up - Hankook Z214 R-comps and Rota Grids. I know some question Rota issues, but I've tracked these previously on my STi for over 4 years w/ no issues, tough wheels. Other track buds and race teams also use them. 

 

 

 

Currently tracking a Stage 1 E46 M3 that I'll try to match perf-wise as goal #1. M3 is putting out 285whp.

 

Edited December 2, 2014 by aongch

[EF Ian]

I'll be interested to see what improvements/changes you make. I'm sure you'll have fun getting her set up perfected.

[aongch]

Interesting, rear fitment with R-comps, same size as street, 245/45/16, puts the 8" wheels, 0 offset, about 7-10 mm inwards of the flares. The 9.5" wide street Wats with the 'flush' -19 mm offset pushed them way out. BUT, shocking that the rear backspacing is almost identical, within 1 mm apart of the Grids! 16x8 vs 16x9.5 

 

My goal is to fit 275s for tracking, different wheels of course, probably up to 17s since more tire avail. Anyone can share set ups with coilovers and stock control arms that work? 

 

 

Edited November 29, 2014 by aongch

[aongch]

Looking for more cool air to pass thru to the top/rear K&N, found perfect sized 2" plumbing threaded couplers that fit into the radiator support hole, the flanges tightened around the metal support. This makes a great hose feeder, like the Summit Racing memory flex hose. 

 

 

 

 

Btw, I already have the vented 280Z hood. 

[R3VO 3VOM]

I'd definitely say go up to a 17" given what you plan to do with the car. I'm running 16x9 conquest wheels on my flared car with some generic 225 tire. 245 is about the max width in a 16" with anything less than a 50 sidewall. 16" tire sizes suck. That being said, Mickey Thompson makes some like 335's but they're a drag radial.

 

My non flared car will be running 17" just because you can get basically any tire you want in a lot of different profiles all the way up to a 335.

 

I've never heard of anyone having issues with clearing the control arms. You hit the strut tubes/spring perches before anything else trying to put wide wheels under a Z. Thats the problem I'm having right now with my stock bodied car; I'm trying to fit the widest wheel but still limiting me to around a x9.

Edited December 2, 2014 by R3VO 3VOM

[aongch]

I'd like to tie my front strut bars to the firewall. John C's set up at post #9 below is the best I've seen so far, with proper analysis. Hey John, did you use a local (to me also I hope) fabricator for the triangulated bar? Perhaps I can have the firewall attachment made, with rod end mounts, to complement my set up.

 

This is to prepare for future power upgrades to the RB.

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44660-who-makes-the-best-strut-bar/

 

Edited December 3, 2014 by aongch

[aongch]

Had to get corner balancing and alignment out of the way, to control this RB. West End again, Darin did xlnt work! Surprising I thought this car was closer to 2100 lbs, gutted, but with cage, myself (~150 lbs) and about 8 gals gas, came out as follows, hmm, need to get lighter. The Wats and ES1s are prob on the heavy side, but still....

 

 

 

 

Edited December 6, 2014 by aongch

[EF Ian]

I don't know if you've ever felt just how much heat comes off that area below where your filter is, but its a lot, even on mine which has ceramic coated manifolds, elbows and downpipes. Why don't you move your filter forward towards the front of the by where the air is colder, that's bound to help a lot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 7, 2014 by EF Ian

[EF Ian]

2656lbs is what I'd have expected yours to be, even seems light to me, that's fractionally over 1200kg, most RB26 S30s I've seen (at least in the UK) weigh just over 1200kg wet with no driver so given that with you inside and a cage I'd say you are doing well.

[aongch]

I don't know if you've ever felt just how much heat comes off that area below where your filter is, but its a lot, even on mine which has ceramic coated manifolds, elbows and downpipes. Why don't you move your filter forward towards the front of the by where the air is colder, that's bound to help a lot.

 

 

 

 

You have lots of room, very nice!

 

For now I'm running tuned SPL off the stock MAFs. The front/lower K&N is pointing down behind the radiator with about 1 inch poking under it, top is now fed this cooler air from the hose, best I could do so far. I'm going to full ECU upgrade next (Nistune?) and get rid of those MAFs. Still researching for best set up for tracking. Meanwhile, at least the 3 pulls were consistent with no huge dips in the chart.  AFR is also nice and low. 

[EF Ian]

Just had another look at your engine bay photo there and I can see the MAF's, I missed those when I was looking before. With my build I made it a priority to get rid of the MAF's, mainly for packaging reasons as I've seen many other RB builds where people have struggled for decent intake placement. Definitely get rid of your MAF's, a map sensor is a better deal.

[EF Ian]

I didn't want to skimp on my ECU as I consider it one of the most important aspects of an engine setup. I'm very happy with my link G4+ and can totally recommend that, for me it was well worth the money for the amount of options and feature available. Can't comment on Nistune as I've never used it and most of  the people in the UK with anything other than stock RB builds seem to go for standalone setups.

[EF Ian]

Sorry for the 3 posts, for some reason if I put separate paragraphs in the same form it won't submit? If you want a better look at my setup theres more photos in  my build thread which can be found in the members builds - S30 section. 

[aongch]

I didn't want to skimp on my ECU as I consider it one of the most important aspects of an engine setup. I'm very happy with my link G4+ and can totally recommend that, for me it was well worth the money for the amount of options and feature available. Can't comment on Nistune as I've never used it and most of  the people in the UK with anything other than stock RB builds seem to go for standalone setups.

 

The link G4+ huh? Let me research that.

 

I'm also considering to replace/relocate the fuel cell with alum and mount it under the rear floor. Any thoughts? I know safety-wise removing it from the passenger compartment should be a wise idea. Again, my purpose is track days where we have open passing sessions, but I'd like to prep it for possible future local road races, NASA, etc. Inputs??

[roger280zx]

Clean car, but I have to ask, what on earth made you think it was 2100 lbs?  73' 240 2300ish, -L24 and 4spd (450)= 1850 + RB and 5spd (800)= 2650 before you add or subtract anything else.  These weights are mere approximations so don't beat on me too bad guys...

[aongch]

Yup, that 2100 lbs was just hopeful guessing on my part since the car is pretty much gutted. But that cage added quite a bit and some from the RB also. So, working backwards from my real corner balance weight of 2656 with me in it, 150 lbs, and about 10 gals gas, about 60 lbs, dry weight is appx 2440.  The Wilwoods and Sparco seats are probably equal weights vs stockers. 

 

Will weigh my track wheels/tires soon to compare with those street Wats and Yoko ES100, which may add or subtract.

 

I might invest in a fiberglass hood and better race buckets to reduce it some. 

 

Here's a short walkaround video of my baseline setup, as you can see I only have the dash cap with gauges mounted behind, 3" exh only with resonator, under dash wiring needs to be tucked in better: