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Rear defroster help!


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12/28 I received my Datsun 280z as my first car. The Rear defrost does not work and I am wondering if I would have to get a whole new rear window or just a rear defrost relay?

 

 

The problem is that I can not find if the defroster relay is the item I need, google search results me in only finding the switch.

 

 

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you getting power at the relay? Power at the window? Break out the multimeter and get working! I find a quick test for power at the right location will shed lots of light on the problem. Congrats on the car btw. Get acquainted with this site, the search, and the search function for this site. 

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The defrost grid material is commonly worn away from years of sunlight and cleanings.  They usually don't work.  The Frost Fighter is a good idea but the sizes available are too big and don't fit the windows right.  I haven't seen any simple solutions to fixing the rear window defrost.

 

There is a troubleshooting procedure in the FSM.  Body Electrical, I believe.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

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Yeah, the defrost grids are usually the problem.  The only real solution I know of is to buy new glass which, in Atlanta, runs $320 installed. 

 

Welcome to the wonderful world of Z's!  They're amazing cars, and I hope you come to love yours as much as I have loved mine. 

 

*Edit*  I looked at the Frost Fighter website, and although their solution looks like an effective (and less expensive) alternative to replacing the glass, I don't see how their defroster lines could line up with the factory grid. You'd have twice as many wires to see through.  Too bad there's no way to get rid of the factory defrost lines. 

Edited by RPMS
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The Frost Fighter grid is delivered on sheets much like wax paper and has an adhesive

on the grid itself.  By its nature it is a universal fit with the intent that you would trim the

width to fit. 

 

On one of my hatches I used a razor blade to remove the lingering remnants of the original

grid and then cut the FF grid into individual strips.  That way I could carefully apply the grid

lines directly over the original, which had stained the glass, so even scrapping could not

fully remove them.

 

The kit also includes new bus bars to distribute power to the grid.  The manufacture does

not recommend using the factory bus, but it may be possible if additional resistance is added.

 

The result was fairly good, and much better than nothing.  I plan to do it again and may try

adding a dab of solder to the joint between the individual grid lines and the bus bar, as a

couple of the lines worked poorly compared to the others.

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