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Interest In A CV Adaptor


Scottie-GNZ

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In the past, there seemed to be some interest in the CV adaptor I am using. I even had a personal email inquiring on the availablity.

 

I spoke to the machinist and unfortunately he is really busy at this time but being a Z enthusiast himself, he promises to get back to me with a price. He did mention that he needed to find a lower price on the raw stock.

 

Seeing how well mine is working for me, I am confident about the preciseness of the adaptor itself and that my companion flange was welded on true. The problem I have with selling the adaptor is I could not guarantee that someone else would weld the flange on true and that their weld would be good.

 

In speaking with the machinist, we agreed the design could be modified to have a pocket on the wheel side of the adaptor that the flange would fit in. This would guarantee the flange would be properly positioned and it would also take the stress off the weld.

 

This is all for nought if there is not enough interest out there. We all know that having just 1 or 2 sets CNC-machined is not cost effective. What I would like to know is how much interest there is out there and what do folks think is a reasonable price for a set (2).

 

For me, it was all part of a big deal because the machinist is the one who now has my L28T/SDS/NPR setup and he was excited enough to make them because he also wanted a set.

 

I jack my car up check the driveline after every track session and I have not even had to retighten the bolts. Thats approx 450 lb/ft of torque with sticky tires and counting biggrin.gif.

 

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Scottie

71 240GN-Z

Scottie's GNZ

 

[This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited January 29, 2001).]

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Scottie,

How much wider is your welded design that the bolt on adapter (ala - Biondo)? I've already got the machined adapters, but it looks like the CV's are going to be a very tight fit. Wondering if you idea opened up the distance any.

 

I had my adapters professionally machined for a cost of $0.00 The shop at my work was being eliminated, so all the skilled workers pulled massive G-jobs for everyone (OK, mostly me!) before they left. It really sucks not having them anymore frown.gif

 

-Andy

 

[This message has been edited by Andrew Bayley (edited January 29, 2001).]

 

[This message has been edited by Andrew Bayley (edited January 29, 2001).]

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Consider a set sold to me...If the time frame is good. I'll have CV joints in house this week and would love to get a new set of axles on the car by Late spring!

 

Mike

 

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http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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I am going seriously long term with my car. I'm doing everything up front - chassis, suspension, brakes - maybe even cage. I'm going to save the engine for the very last.

 

But, I'm on the fence about the CV axles. I can get a set of used axles for $110. This seems really high, but that price took some haggling (and then I ended up not buying them which prob'ly pissed off the yard owner). In my area salvaged Zcars are really rare, and turbos are even more so. I've only found 2 and both are at the same yard. One place used the "network" to find me some for $100 each!! It's especially sucky because I could get a rebuilt set for $150 (incl. core charge), but this does no good since the companion flange is required also.

 

So, I guess my questions are, how much are people paying for the shafts (with the companion flange)? Is my local price as ridiculous as it seems? And what's a good power handling estimate for the stock shafts (with solid Us)? I'd like the car to be able to handle whatever engine I end up getting (at least a year from now). I don't want my sporty Zcar to be slower than my truck (worked over, 10.5:1 429, if I can ever get it back on the road...), but I also don't imagine I'll be doing anything as extreme as Scottie with it. Probably peak 350hp and it'll never have slicks.

 

I'd imagine these adapters won't go for less than $100 (likely more, right?).

 

Ugh. I need more money. Two kids in private school equals no fun.

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Scottie - I'm in, as long as I can have them in my hands by March. Summers are short here, so I need to limit my down time to the winter months smile.gif. Not trying to be a pain in the ass, but I missed almost the entire summer last year, due to waiting on having stuff fabricated - not doing it again this year...

 

jeromio - I paid $125 for my pair of cv axles shipped.

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Here are some pics to remind everyone, and those who do not know, what the adaptor looks like. The first pic is the CV side and you can see the pocket that the CV end sits in and the splines of the companion flange in the center. The next shows the wheel side with the companion flange welded on. The modified adaptor would have a pocket for the companion flange and the depth of the pocket would equal the thickness of the flange.

 

cv-side-view.jpg

 

cv-adaptor.jpg

 

 

 

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Scottie

71 240GN-Z

Scottie's GNZ

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I dealt with this subject matter many years ago. And my recollection of these parts (and with many conversations with Jim B) was that the ONLY difference between the two stubs (240Z and 280Z) was the spline count and OD of the splines. The diameter of the stubs between the bearing journals was the same (as is every other dimension except the splined area. Can someone verify or deny this???..Please!. With this in mind I would like to know what the torque rating difference is between the two. My guess is that even with the CV jointed shafts in place, that the weak link is still going to be somewhere other than the stubs.

 

Terry Oxandale

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And just to further clarify (over-clarify? smile.gif ), as per Terry (http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html and Pete's (http://members.home.net/pparaska/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm) web pages, the 280ZX turbo Companion flange is compatible with the 240Z stub axle.

 

Therefore, you need an adapter to use the 280Z stubs, but you do not if you retain the 240Z stubs.

 

I hate to be redundant, but if I have mis-understood any of this information I definately need to know.

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Jeromio,

 

We are saying the same thing. Note that in my list with the dimensions, the 240Z and 280ZX are together.

 

Terry, you are correct about the bearing journals being identical (I can vouch for the 240 and 280s). My dimensions are for the splined area. Do not know the torque ratings, but I have seen several failures on a 300ZXT and every one was the stub axle snapping in the splined area. This car however was a full-bodied 86 ZXT trying to launching a 700hp hand-grenade with a 5-spd. Dont ever recall him breaking any other axle component.

 

 

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Scottie

71 240GN-Z

Scottie's GNZ

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i might be interested after i see price.i have a set designed out of billit aluminum each cut on lathe from 1 piece.i have the cv axles and a 3.7 lsd laying around.one of the features of using this adaptor or yours over the oem unit is that the axles fit better-the cv joints arent as compressed.i forgot to mention that the my design is still in paper stage.

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The idea is that although the stock companion flange works with the 240 stubs, the 280 stubs are stronger. Therefore the 280 companion flange must be adapted to bolt to the CV joint.

 

Now that I mulled it over, If I do decide to go CV, I think I will just go with the 240 stubs. I really need to do the shafts now since my car is all in pieces - so that counts me out.

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quote
Therefore the 280 companion flange must be adapted to bolt to the CV joint.

 

This is an accurate statement but there seems to be some confusion. The stub axle and companion flange is a match set, 240Z or 280Z. Regardless of which you use, the bolt pattern of the companion flange is the same and you need an adaptor to connect the 4-bolt (almost square) companion flange to the 6-bolt round CV.

 

If you go with the 280ZXT companion flange on the 240Z stub axle, then you just have to deal with the issues of that conversion. Those who think they need CVs are obviously doing it because of a need for additional strength in the axles. Seems to defeat the purpose if you go for CVs and continue to use the smaller 240Z stub axles.

 

Being forced to dig into my personal archives biggrin.gif, here is what I came up with.

 

280z 27 splines with an outside diameter of 1.090"

 

240 and 280zx 25 splines with an outside diameter of 1.015"

 

300zx 26 splines with an outside diameter of 1.085"

 

One more pic of the finished product mounted on a stub axle.

 

BTW, if I am overdoing with the images, let me know.

 

adaptor-on-axle.jpg

 

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Scottie

71 240GN-Z

Scottie's GNZ

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I'm interested too but need to fully understand what would be needed in the way of parts. I've already got an R200 with what I ASSume is 240 stubs in it. To move to CVs I'd need your adapter and for strength - new stubs? CVs obviously too smile.gif

 

As I recall, one of th eissues discussed with the previous CV conversions was compressing the joint too much. If this gets us past that and allows the use of assumably stronger and certainly smoother CVs I'm all for it. I'm not sure I trust the U-joint setup and I know the CVs are smoother - where's the downside? $150 for CVs? That's a drop in the bucket all things considered I'm afraid...

 

I'd also be VERY interested in someone setting up a conversion to the later model VLSD rear and some Maxima brackets to bolt on smile.gif I swear I'm tempted to get hold of one of those VLSDs and just tinker with it to see how hard it owuld be - I've never even seen a pic of one yet...

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Guest Anonymous

Scottie, You can count me in if you can make this happen soon. I'm really wanting to put my car together & try my Maxima brackets with different caliper & rotor combos but I've been waiting for adapters to be made. I currently have the c.v. axles, 240 stub axles, & the 280zxt flanges but I'd like to use the bigger splined 280z stub axles I have. If something is brakable I will brake it. Are the bolt holes your adapters threaded or do you have to use nuts?

Please let us know soon.

Glenn

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