Naptown Dave Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Yeah a gas lens will help keep everything cleaner. Try the thinnest tungsten and filler wire you can find, it will put less heat (more concentrated) into the joint and cause less warpage and draw less crap into the puddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted March 11, 2015 Author Share Posted March 11, 2015 Right now, I'm using a 1/16 lanthanated tungsten with 3/32 filler. I tried 1/16 filler but man it's hard when some gaps are slightly bigger. I've had much better success using 3/32 filler than 1/16. Which do you prefer? lanthanated ceriaited ER3 thoriated So far I've used all but ER3 and honestly don't like thoriated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 I think I steal pure tungsten from work lol. Does the arc tend to blow off the side with thoriated? If memory serves its more for aluminum, it helps the high frequency start the arc. I struggled with 3/32" tungsten at first but now I run 1/16". After doing a semi shady job filling in my sunroof I learned the importance of a good consistent fit up so I have been running .045 mig wire for filler. If you can practice keeping your filler wire hand free enough to add additional wire when needed that would help with any odd gaps. One of the things my instructors always stressed at welding school was a consistent fit, it takes one of the many variables out of the equation. I shaved my door handles and locks, side marker lights, antenna hole and gas filler door half with TIG and half with .020 MIG and didn't really see much difference in warping, it's just I did a lot less grinding with the MIG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 True, but man getting a perfect fit with the floor pans is almost impossible due to how the tunnel is shaped and how the pans come in. I found that after cutting down the pan, I slice the edges through the length of the lip so that I can bend little fingers upwards towards the tunnel then weld the ends to the inside of the trans tunnel vs welding from the inside in what I would call the most uncomfortable place to try and weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 Added more pic's to the main album showing the huge hole capped on the passenger side. Also finally cut out the driver side and doing metal prep this time to make sure I have clean metal on all areas of the weld. And since I've learned some tricks such as the cutting fingers in the sides to allow clean fitment to the trans tunnel and back of the floor pan, I can premark the floor pan where I need to cut for fingers and how much extra I need to cut off as waste. https://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Looks good bro, nothing a little seam sealer and undercoat won't fix! I guess I was thinking more of welding in patch panels on the shiny side. I need to look into that Honda wiper motor swap when I get back in town. Where are you located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 Fort Worth TX.So managed to clean up all the metal edges on the driver side, jack up my panel and mark all the areas that need to be cut off. Also marked off the area to slice for the finger forming to contour to the inner trans tunnel. Then finally got it tacked up. Man this has gone so much faster welding it in and getting it prepped knowing what needs to be done before hand. Since there was no guess work, it's already fully tacked in and just needs the frame rail installed then finish welding everything together. However I'm low on argon again... down to about 400 psi out of a 1750 fill. So hopefully I can finish tacking in the frame rail before I run out, then pick up more this weekend to do the finish welds on everything. The driver side has a lot less rust in the kick panel than the passenger, however there are still a few areas I think I should cut out and replace but much smaller overall. So I think I should be done with the major rust fixes soon and can really focus on getting the engine in, tank sump installed, and cutting the fuel lines as needed and installed. then engine harness/chassis harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 Finally got the frame rails from front to back fully seam welded in. Driver side pan is done. All that is left is to finish closing up the gap in the front of the pan connecting to the kick panels. So hopefully that will be done this weekend and then putting my engine in!!!! Will take pictures of everything this weekend and get them posted. Sadly I've been in a rush to get it welded that I forgot to take pictures during it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 updated my album with new pictures of the welded floor http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd There are still a few areas that need to be closed off and that will get done this weekend. I have a fresh argon tank which should be more than enough to finish up the unfinished areas. Then I need to take a grinder to it and smooth up everything and truck bed liner the bottom and inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 so ran into a rather large snag... I have a 1 ton shop crane and apparently the boom does not extend long enough in order for me to sit the engine all the way back so I can put it on it's mounts... can't afford a 2 ton crane which only extends the boom length by 13 inch's HELP!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 Where in Texas is Haltom City? I have a 2 ton if need be. I am in Fort Hood/Killeen.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.pk Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Can you drop the engine in by going sideways over the fender instead of from the front. This is how I have pulled my LS1 and installed a couple times, but without the trans attached. Have to remove wheel and carefully place some jack stands so they wont interfere with the crane though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Can you drop the engine in by going sideways over the fender instead of from the front. This is how I have pulled my LS1 and installed a couple times, but without the trans attached. Have to remove wheel and carefully place some jack stands so they wont interfere with the crane though. I do mine that way, it's super easy. You can do it with the trans on but you have to go slow and I would highly recommend having a helper so you don't tip it over while moving laterally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 (edited) so had to remove horns, front bumper, front air dam, and front grill! And finally was able to get it about 5in away. Re-mounted the chains from the load leveler to the header area instead of the back of the heads. and that allowed more leverage to push the engine back further. http://imgur.com/a/R7CddI'm sore as hell tho moving that engine so much... and I officially hate my load leveler... I swear that thing is damn near impossible to turn with it under weight. edit: also that last image.. should the belt be that close ? Edited April 20, 2015 by CableSrv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 got the transmission bolted up to the new floor pans and ran into a problem.. the driveshaft provided by johns car is half an inch to long... anyone ran into this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 No, mine was perfect out of the box. He's great and will shorten it for you. Just a hassle to box back up and send it. It won't cost much, but this stuff happens-try not to have an argument over who's fault it is. Building cars...shit happens. Better too long than too short! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 My bet is the fact you have an early car and have the forward mounted differential. The series one cars had them, Datsun realized the angled half shafts caused vibration and moved the diffs back in 71. If your car is early 71 it may be better to move the diff than shorten the shaft. Mustache bar and rear lower control arm mounts need swapped and the front diff mount reversed. HTH, Richard. PS I have three series one cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 True! just sucks that I'm making good progress only to go wait... it won't fit!!! Luckily I live in texas and can just drive up to him and save on shipping a 25lb drive shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 I would not have the shaft shortened. I would move the Diff. The LS is going to push the limits of NVH adding the offset diff will make it worse. At least investigate before you decide. It is a really easy job. 9 or 10 bolts total. JMHO, YMMV, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Do I need new parts? or can I just reverse my mustache bar and front mount? Cause atm I don't have extra money to get that done. I just spent the last chunk saved up to get the exhaust tubing for the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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