Jay Gadsby Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Pretty sure you need the offset mustache bar and front bar. The early MB is a straight piece. I could be wrong, may want to research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 As stated above. It does require a different mustache bar, the curved one and the lower arm mount also curved for clearance. The can be from any late 240 up to 280 The front is just flipping the mount if I recall correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 so I need to source the rear control arm mount and new offset mustache bar... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Belt issue is normal. I ground that bolt down a bit for clearance but it's not necessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Awesome! I was worried there would be vibration in the belt there and cause some wear that would cause the belt to fail prematurely. Found a 72 mustache bar for 10 bucks + 24 shipping so ordered it. Looked at my trailing arm and while it is flat and not curved... to me it looks like I might be able to push my diff back without to much issues.. and if one does arrive, I can just grind down that trailing arm bracket and reinforce it with some welding. That way I don't need to pay to have that also replaced. But the front mount just needs to be reversed correct? If so then sometime next week I should be able to get that done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 A lot of people just make or modify the lower control arm mount. The M bar is a must swap Good deal on the M bar. NOT positive but the flip mount is what I remember. HTH, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Got the new mustache bar will probably try to get it on this weekend. On other news got my new sump welded onto my tank and used ospho on the inside to clean it up... however I let the ospho sit over night... and now I have this weird black tar looking stuff inside all over the bottom. Will probably put some nuts in and shake it around a bit with some water then dry it out.Will take some pictures tonight showing the new sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 You can't leave ospho puddle or it turns into some black stuff that can get as hard as a rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Yea, just learned that last night.. so now I need to break it up.. my thought is grab a handful or more of some huge nuts and put them in the tank and shake it hard to get the black stuff broken up.Any other ideas ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Fuel tank is mostly done, there are only 3 holes (original outlet and return + a hole I made to help drain the tank) I need to close up with welding then she's ready to be put back in the car. Then mustache bar to set the diff further back and hopefully my drive shaft will fit.Then after all that, I need to mount the radiator and finish wiring and fuel lines, then a start up? updated album with new fuel sump.http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Managed to make my rear seat bracket using some 1.5in angle iron and seems to have worked pretty well. Need to do the same for the passenger side. This weekend I'll be doing the mustache bar and trailing arm and getting the driveshaft hooked up. after that I should be able to finish working on the fuel and putting the tank back in. And figuring where I want to mount my fuel pump/regulator and cutting the rest of my hoses to length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 Just ordered some sound deadener 50mil. Hopefully 50sqft should be enough to do the firewall, trans tunnel and floors. Also ordered this.. http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2031DD-Exhaust-Tailpipe-Cutter/dp/B000M93OUM ? hopefully this should be good enough for my 3in exhaust tubing so I can also work on getting my exhaust started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 Finally got my new mustache bar installed and modified the trailing arm so that it clears the diff. However I will need to reinforce the trailing arm as I had to remove quite a bit of material from it to allow the diff enough room. I think a simple 1x7 square tube welded on should be enough.. if not then a c channel welded in should be perfect. Trip to home depot should hopefully result in something worth while. Welded up the original holes for the return and outlet on the fuel tank... little did I know that datsun uses LEAD in that rectangular piece that has the 2 ports on it. Had to scrub that all off and then re-weld it solid. While I was at it, I went ahead and wired in my new ez wiring kit to the new LS1 Engine. Got starter wired up and the wire loom split for the front headlights/turn/parking lightsCurious tho... there are a few extra wires that bother me. Alternator exciter? Coil Position? Tach? and AC signal? From what I think... the ecu for the ls1 controls the alternator so the exciter wire I can remove correct? Coil position was used on older engines so this can also be removed? Also the fuel pump wire on the ez kit can be removed as the standalone harness has it as part of it's system. I also think the radiator fan wires can be removed also since that's part of the ls1 harness. So I think I can remove all alternator, fuel pump, radiator fan and coil wire from the ez wiring kit. Any opinions ? Now lets talk tach... how does a aftermarket tach get it's reading? from the ecu? from the coil? not sure how tachs work on ls1's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 I used the charge light to get the alternator all excited. You just have to make sure its an incandescent bulb and not an LED. If it's an LED you will need to wire a resistor inline. I think I removed the tach and AC wires as I went with a vintage air system. What color is the coil wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 (edited) There should be a red wire from pin 15 on the red ECM connector, that is the alternator exciter. The white wire at pin 10 on the red connector is the engine speed output. I used it for the signal to my Autometer tach. It bounces a little at idle but smooths out quickly. I think some guys have used a resistor to dampen the signal to stop the bounce but it's not enough for me to worry about. Do you have a relay setup for the fan and fuel pump? I wired in an OBD port today so I had my pinout paperwork out for easy reference:) Edited May 4, 2015 by Naptown Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 The standalone harness I have already has that wired up and it is a LED with resistor. The alternator excitor wire I'm talking about is the wire off the EZ wiring harness. I assume it was designed to take over the alternator as it has all the cables for it. Charging cable, excitor and 2 pin gm plug in. I'm assuming I won't be using that as the standalone for the ls1 has it's own 1 wire plug and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 So pin 10 on red is the engine speed output for tach? Awesome will make note of that when I get my tach in to hook into it. Yea the standalone wire harness from Chevy thunder provides relays for both radiator fans and fuel pump and a obdII port with check engine light attached. Still trying to figure out where I want to route that cable... either passenger side or driver side... but will need to drill a hole through the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 10 it is! I built my secondary fuse/relay panel from a Bussman micro panel, I don't even want to know what your setup cost because I probably saved like $10 doing it myself lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 525 for the entire wiring harness + 99 pcm with flash to remove all the unwanted stuff. Honestly was totally worth the money as now I have a lot less to worry about besides just plugging shit in and go. Engine is pretty much wired... I am however still missing O2 sensors and actually building my exhaust. I still have to put my fuel tank back in, but haven't done so since today was getting my new mustache bar in and getting the Diff moved back so that my driveshaft actually fits.. which it does!! whoo hoo! I do need 4 longer bolts and nuts for the companion flange on the diff to driveshaft mount. So next is putting in my fuel tank, running new fuel hoses, and then finish mounting my pump, filter/regulator, then rest of the lines. After all that, new battery, start with a down pipe with o2 sensors, then trying to start her up. Radiator and fans are setup to go but haven't actually put it in the car yet. Still need hoses for the water and still need elbows for the intake+filter. ugh still so much more to buy/do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Ha it's getting down to the 'death by a thousand cuts'! That's a good sign! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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