trackzpeed Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Congrats! Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Fantastic! Video! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Almost had a very bad day, took it for a test spin for 2 minutes and was vigilantly monitoring the oil pressure the whole time with the tuning software. And while that was all good I failed to notice the climbing coolant temperature, saw 212 when I cut it off, after I cut it off it rose to about 250 . I don't think the engine was sucking in coolant, radiator was not hot, removed thermostat and now the radiator gets hot. Anyone know if my coolant hoses are backwards (I don't think they are)? I have the one with the thermostat going to the bottom of radiator and the other too the top. Exhaust is quite loud at the moment, seems to be some leaks in it at front, video is deceiving in terms of volume it is loud in person. Clutch needs some adjusting, it engages very early makes it hard to control. Need to check the tach wiring and settings too since its reading 0. Otherwise the engine is a monster, I can feel the car wanting to twist every time I grab a gear. Here it is on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Rw1tc-g6bg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Thermostat side usually goes to the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Almost had a very bad day, took it for a test spin for 2 minutes and was vigilantly monitoring the oil pressure the whole time with the tuning software. And while that was all good I failed to notice the climbing coolant temperature, saw 212 when I cut it off, after I cut it off it rose to about 250 . I don't think the engine was sucking in coolant, radiator was not hot, removed thermostat and now the radiator gets hot. Anyone know if my coolant hoses are backwards (I don't think they are)? I have the one with the thermostat going to the bottom of radiator and the other too the top. Exhaust is quite loud at the moment, seems to be some leaks in it at front, video is deceiving in terms of volume it is loud in person. Clutch needs some adjusting, it engages very early makes it hard to control. Need to check the tach wiring and settings too since its reading 0. Otherwise the engine is a monster, I can feel the car wanting to twist every time I grab a gear. Here it is on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Rw1tc-g6bg Did you bleed the vents? And you can run the hose to either, it doesn't matter. Water just cools as it passes through the radiator. Generally these motors overheat do to air pockets. (Like 95% of the time from my experience) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 Yeah, I was backwards. LS engines have the thermostat on the lower portion of the water pump housing, that is the inlet from the radiator. Top hose to top port, bottom to bottom. Was thinking SBC where the thermostat is on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) First time I fired mine up the temps rose up quick! I then took off the upper radiator hose and poured antifreeze in until it come out the top. Fired up the engine and its ran great and cool ever since. I figured and was wrong by thinking that only filling up the radiator that the thermostat would open up when the engine got hot. Edited May 16, 2015 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 (edited) First time I fired mine up the temps rose up quick! I then took off the upper radiator hose and poured antifreeze in until it come out the top. Fired up the engine and its ran great and cool ever since. I figured and was wrong by thinking that only filling up the radiator that the thermostat would open up when the engine got hot. Yep that is what I ended up doing as well, I still have the thermostat out though. Seems to be cooling fine now, tuning has been a lot more than I expected, many many changes needed to be made. Main issue was it wouldn't rev past 4k RPM from some tranny limiters that were being enforced since it has no tranny signal. And the 5th gen sending unit is a beast, I have been driving this thing around with only 2 gallons of gas in the tank with no starvation issues. Tach is fixed, was a tuning issue as well, need to work out the tune to enable the electric fan properly now. Man the car is fun! Sidenote: really handy to have torque control with these motors, keeps me from blowing up the tires and hopefully keep the rear end alive (noticed the diff leak a couple drops already though ) Edited May 17, 2015 by crapforum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Probably burping out of the vent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 (edited) Just FYI for others in the future, when you go to wire up your fans (you may have to add the wires to the connector), you want to use low speed fan pin if you only have 1 fan, I had mine hooked up to the high speed fan pin thinking that that would be better. I was having some hard times getting the fan to turn on in the tune, turns out that the hi speed fan is tied to the A/C and you must edit the A/C values in the tune to get it to come on. Also the high speed fan will only come on if the low speed fan is on first, so you have to lower your low speed fan numbers to get it to always be on so the high speed fan will come on when you want. Next step is to get this thing dyno tuned for maximum performance and good gas mileage. More fan tips: The high speed fan is fan #2 so make sure to specify you have 2 fans in the tune, also in case anyone is wondering it seems the 3 row radiator (280z? one) is adequate for cooling the LS motors when you have a good fan. Edited May 18, 2015 by crapforum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Turns out my exhaust leak is actually coming from the driver header where the tubes merge into the collector. Not sure how to fix it, pretty disappointed about that since it is a pain to get it in and out. I remember briefly looking over the welds before I put it on and it looked ok, guess not.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 That may be a good spot for some jb weld lol. Which headers do you have? Just wondering if I need to look at my JTR headers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 That may be a good spot for some jb weld lol. Which headers do you have? Just wondering if I need to look at my JTR headers... These are the CXRacing headers. There is still a small chance it is the V-Band leaking but I've adjusted the pipes a number of times so that they mount very good and flat on the v-band flanges so I'm pretty sure its ruled out. This is an obvious leak (can hear a ticking and smell and feel exhaust blowing around there) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 My LT Headers from CX were on back order..... I may come up with a way to pressure/leak test them prior to install. Thanks for the heads up. Call CXR and see what they plan to do for compensation.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 My LT Headers from CX were on back order..... I may come up with a way to pressure/leak test them prior to install. Thanks for the heads up. Call CXR and see what they plan to do for compensation.... Just got of the phone with them and they said that I could mail it back to them for fixing, since I didn't want to ship it to California and wait I asked for some reimbursement which they offered $30. Not much but will buy me some stainless steel wire and beers for my buddy to fix it. I hooked a vacuum to the exhaust pipe to pinpoint the leak, it was where all 4 primaries combine in the collector, up between the top two, probably the most annoying part to try to get into to repair. I would bench test them if I was you by blocking off the ports that go to the cylinder head and hooking a vacuum to where the v-band is, kind of glad it was the driver side one since pulling the steering shaft is actually easier than messing with the starter on the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Thanks.... Great advice and an easy test when they arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Well exhaust leak sorted out for now, the engine revs much better now and it seems to have gained even more horsepower, seems proper O2 readings are very important on these new engines. Also found a place to wire my check engine light to: Seeing as how I no longer have a choke I soldered the check engine wire from the ECM onto that bulb. Illuminates nicely and required no extra wires or modifications to the stock interior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Goodness, why do you want a check engine light? Mine wears me out in the truck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Goodness, why do you want a check engine light? Mine wears me out in the truck! Haha I got tired of seeing a code pop up when tuning the motor with my laptop saying "check engine light failure" so I added one. Added a sticker to make it more check engine like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) Got a little bit of dyno tuning, it had a baseline of 374hp and 374tq, ended up with 392.4hp 392.51tq with that 20 extra showing up throughout the whole powerband as well as the power coming in a little quicker on the bottom end. So somewhere around the 480hp at the motor, I'm happy for now All this on some 87 octane and 9.6:1 compression. Edited June 2, 2015 by crapforum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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