JoeK Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 There have been a number of threads I've been able to find regarding installing a plastic F-Body tank into our S30's. I have decided to install one of these tanks in mine as well, which is a '71 240z. Properly installed, with the sump towards the rear of the car, the tank hangs down about 5" below the original rear valance. Seems like most people install these tanks backwards, so that the filler is on the passenger side where the original filler door is. I don't really care about that, while I will use the original filler location I could easily install a filler relocation kit. I do care about fuel starvation issues though. But I don't like the tank hanging so low. All of the info I can find about this install never has any follow ups, saying whether or not they have any problems. I've got my mounts all fabbed up, and ready to weld in. Just need to decide which way to point the tank. I'm pretty sure I'll mount it with the sump towards the front unless someone's got some horror stories to share. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aero Z Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 (edited) Have my Fbody tank in my car 'backwards' compared to your first few pics. I've ran it down to less than 1 gallon (how found out gauge was off) in the tank and had no starvation issues. I wasn't autocrossing or anything to make the slosh affect worse. If it makes the tank sit lower than backwards I would make sure that clears your suspension setup and ground clearance. With mine the tank sits about the same level as the rear diff mount/diff. I personally wouldn't want it any lower than it currently is. Your mounts look nice. I would remove that charcoal cannister unless you're actually using it. Edited March 30, 2015 by Aero Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatnow123 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Mine starves if there is less than 2 gallons and you really "get on it". Other than that you can drain the tank with the fuel pump on normal driving. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Mine is "backwards". Fits nicely and makes a natural diffuser shape. Hooks up to the filler (I cut up and modified f-body fill next in stock location). Used the f-body straps and wiring harness. Works great. Its hooked up to the stock fuel gauge which means it works backwards and empty is somewhere between the "F" and the "U" on the gauge. Dont care as its a racecar so only need to know when to add (at the bottom of the "F"). Im not exactly sure where but it still has a couple/few gallons when it starves but thats only in long turns and I'm pull 1.4 lateral g's so for vast majority would be able to run much lower without starve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 heavy85-did you get my PM regarding ECTA rulebook? Sorry to trespass on this thread, but sometimes the PM system doesn't work, so this is my only option. I'm also anxious for a follow up on your Pike's Peak preparation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Mine starves if there is less than 2 gallons and you really "get on it". Other than that you can drain the tank with the fuel pump on normal driving. . So that's at about 1/8 of a tank right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) It is a sustained turn that gets ya on fuel starvation. I have a stock tank with an internal sump. I can street drive and autocross down to the last drop but if a road course has a long left-handed sweeper (60-125mph), I need to have about 1/2 tank to avoid starvation (the right side of a Z tank is the big side). If I slow down, I can limp on around to the pits, so at least it stumbles instead of just dying and doesn't strand me. I have no idea of my G capability, but I bet it is less than 1 cause the driver ain't so great. Edited April 1, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Thanks for all the info guys. Sounds like I'll go ahead mount it "backwards". Autox will be the only racing I'll be doing, but mostly street driving. If anyone has pics of their mounts or fuel piping I'd be interested in seeing them. Especially the filler arrangements. That is the only thing I haven't figured out yet, though I have some ideas. I'll share more pics and info about mine as I get it further along. Also any tips on routing to the front? I plan on running 3/8" aluminum hard line from the tank to the engine bay with AN-6 fittings and the corvette filter/regulator. Figure I'll follow the same basic path as the original lines. Edited April 1, 2015 by joek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) No use for the vette reg/filter as there is already a regulator in the tank. F-body comes out throught the filter then tees off back to the tank (regulator) and forward to the fuel rail. I bought aluminum tube but thought it was too flimsy so used steel braided teflon hose (not rubber but teflon). Since I had a complete parts car I used much of it. The Camaro used aluminum hard lines. Rebekah - been off here for a while, will update Pikes Peak thread Edited April 1, 2015 by heavy85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Good note about the regulator in the tank. I already have the vette filter and all my fittings, would it pose a problem to run it anyway? The aluminum hard line is soft but should be fine as long as I keep it tucked out of harms way. I could also return the aluminum and get stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) I don't know what year Z you have. But if the fuel lines go up inside the tunnel, don't put them back there. Run them along the floor like a newer Z or you can even run hard line thru the interior. I put mine inside the tunnel. It was super hard to route them and if I bust a driveshaft for a fourth time it could wipe out my fuel line and the repair would require pulling the engine/trans. This is your chance to make the car easy to work on. If you race it you will break it, so plan for future repairs and look for ways to make them quick and easy. Edited April 1, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Good advice. I think I'll switch to stainless hard line and run it along the frame rail. The aluminum is too soft and could easily be punctured by a rock bouncing off the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 So, I have the stock 280Z tank in mine and it starves under hard cornering if I'm below 1/4 tank on the gage which is about 5 gallons. Unless you go with a fuel cell starvation is going to be an issue at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 heavy85-your PM status is BLOCK. That may explain why you may not have gotten my last PM. It is there waiting for you if you can get un-blocked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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