Jump to content
HybridZ

Techno Toy Tuning Strut Brace


Recommended Posts

Great information here. I used to run a lot of FEA a couple of years back (solidworks, catia, etc.). Just out of curiosity since it's hard to make out in the pics above with the white on white and exposure...but how are the joints mounted above? Are they welded on? Do you have any better pictures? I see the hood latch is gone. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

There will always be guys who swear bolt-ons don't do much compared to custom fabricated/welded on parts.

Of course if you are looking for serious performance on a production car, you are going to want to fabricate/weld stuff and go all out track car . But for a moderate street/light track car, bolt-on should be improvement.

 

 

11377989_700717823384515_621089384_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These all look great, but I guess ya better pair them with some TTT adjustable LCAs if you wanna increase negative camber as needed to actually make a Z corner. My car pushed like a mother till I got camber plates. Pushed with and without a strut brace. If you look at johnc's picture, I think he has busquit style bolt in camber plates to get his camber. That's a quick and easy way to get it done. But, I don't know if losing one of three bolts per side of the strut bar would render it too flexible (?). Just try to think about what your next modification might be before you start laying down time and money. I personally do a lot of "one-step-forward/two-steps-back" spending. This part kinda looks like an opportunity to do some of that. But it does look cool, can't argue that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These all look great, but I guess ya better pair them with some TTT adjustable LCAs if you wanna increase negative camber as needed to actually make a Z corner. My car pushed like a mother till I got camber plates. Pushed with and without a strut brace. If you look at johnc's picture, I think he has busquit style bolt in camber plates to get his camber. That's a quick and easy way to get it done. But, I don't know if losing one of three bolts per side of the strut bar would render it too flexible (?). Just try to think about what your next modification might be before you start laying down time and money. I personally do a lot of "one-step-forward/two-steps-back" spending. This part kinda looks like an opportunity to do some of that. But it does look cool, can't argue that.

I'm running the BC bolt in coilovers with stock control arms and the adjustable control arm bushing. Running -2 degrees of negative camber in front and -1.5 in the rear.  Plenty of oversteer.  (275 tires, square set up)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the brace fits with the BC camber plates? I just went back to your OP and super zoomed in-i can see your adjusters are eccentric. Good to know! Man, your car is NICE!

thanks!.. yes, I have the bolt in plates.  I ground out the top hole a bit for more travel inward.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm really liking the combo with the Cusco bar visually. I'm curious which is more rigid, the flat Cusco with its two bends or the straight round t3 bar... my assumption is the straight t3 bar.

 

I really like this design. I think the tabs are welded to a more rigid part of the firewall.

http://www.bryanf.com/240Z/images/Engine-Left-Side.jpg

Edited by 1vicissitude
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I've done is similar to what John mentioned. 

 

If you look inside where the wiper motor is, you will see that there is an area on the firewall where the "floor" under the wiper motor, and vertical braces all meet. I welded in 3/16" plate over that area that ties all of that together. Then I welded tabs to the plate. The strut bars will have clevis ends that will attach to the tabs.

 

 

post-274-0-30400700-1435588742_thumb.jpg

post-274-0-93242100-1435588749_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The center section of the firewall where the hood latch is is the strongest part.  If, as mentioned above, you span the entire cowl box with a plate on the firewall you will have a pretty solid mount.  I added a couple pics in my previous post and you can see the line of spot welds that defines the bottom of the cowl box.  Add a plate the goes from there all the way to the top of the cowl.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...