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Thanks, I'm a mechanic in the Utah Army National Guard.

 

That's a great idea, it would be nice to sit in a few and see what is going to actually work for me before buying. I'm kind of picky about lumbar support and the angle my legs sit at from the back to the front of the seat.

 

No problem! I've always looked up to all you guys in the military, it's a tough job! Even if you're a person that doesn't get deployed you still have to be so strict with your time, go to a million drills, move around a bucnh, etc. Salute to you sir!

 

and yeah I am pretty pick as well. Plus, I'm not even super tall and it's hard to find a seat that fits me and the Z, so always a good idea to sit in them beforehand! Are you looking at recline able or fixed back?

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I'm not opposed to fixed if it's comfortable, but most likely a recliner. My car is ment to be a street car when it's done, there is not really any racing organizations up here around Logan, and going in a straight line doesn't appeal as much as canyon carving or road coursing to me.

 

I plan on some form of a cage, and definitely stitch weld the body, frame rail reinforcements and strut tower bars. So I'll need to figure out seats before I get to the cage building stage, but that's a ways down the road. Need to finish piecing the drivetrain together first so I know what needs to be done for mounts, ride height, etc.

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I'm not opposed to fixed if it's comfortable, but most likely a recliner. My car is ment to be a street car when it's done, there is not really any racing organizations up here around Logan, and going in a straight line doesn't appeal as much as canyon carving or road coursing to me.

 

I plan on some form of a cage, and definitely stitch weld the body, frame rail reinforcements and strut tower bars. So I'll need to figure out seats before I get to the cage building stage, but that's a ways down the road. Need to finish piecing the drivetrain together first so I know what needs to be done for mounts, ride height, etc.

 

That makes sense, definitely good to get it out of the way first! They've got some good seats at reasonable prices for sure! 

 

 

It is coming along nice, one of these days I need to swing by and take a look. 

 

thanks man, I am impressed with yours! Are you up in logan or where are you located?

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That makes sense, definitely good to get it out of the way first! They've got some good seats at reasonable prices for sure! 

 

 

 

thanks man, I am impressed with yours! Are you up in logan or where are you located?

I am in PG. Right near the G on the mountain.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I would leave something there to help with chassis flex. I'm not an engineer or chassis guru but if you are trying to get your seats to mount lower then replace them with a different section of rectangular tube or a piece of DOM.

The big thing is to just make sure you maintain some form of support to help transfer the load of the seats to the floor pan/rails and keep the pans from flexing to much. Chassis twist and flex a lot more than you would think; without some form of bracing I think you will have more problems down the road by completely deleting them.

Put a question up in the welding and fabrication section and you will probably get more answers from people in the know.

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I would leave something there to help with chassis flex. I'm not an engineer or chassis guru but if you are trying to get your seats to mount lower then replace them with a different section of rectangular tube or a piece of DOM.

 

The big thing is to just make sure you maintain some form of support to help transfer the load of the seats to the floor pan/rails and keep the pans from flexing to much. Chassis twist and flex a lot more than you would think; without some form of bracing I think you will have more problems down the road by completely deleting them.

 

Put a question up in the welding and fabrication section and you will probably get more answers from people in the know.

 

Great suggestions on the smaller tubing, I'll ask in the other forum to get more insight as I'd prefer to remove altogether if possible but I am worried about flexing, thanks for your input!

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  • 2 weeks later...

couple of updates!

I took off the exhaust manifold. That thing was perma stuck as it hadn't moved in years. I had to crowbar it off, I wasn't sure if there were bolts still stuck on it keeping it on but it was just super stuck. I also got all of the manifold bolts out without breaking any! I used the two nut method, tightened them on and used a hammer drill to back them off without snapping any. Stoked on that! 
 

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I also got the driveline installed, easy enough!

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then I put in the pedals and steering wheel. Note: I would recommend this step before putting the dash back in, That was a pain, didn't quite think it through haha.
 

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cut off the old emissions piping to get to the nuts better. soaked these multiple times with magical PB Blaster and took a torque wrench to the bolts after a few days, Voila! Took a bit to loosen them up enough then finished taking them the rest of the way out with the hammer drill. Now to plug those bad boys up!

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then I took my time, cleaned up the ends of intake and exhaust manifold with a wire brush drill attachment, (The exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe side was interesting, the gasket had fused to the manifold over all the years so I had to scrape it off with a razor scraper first. then I also got new manifold bolts from Oreilly's (will switch those out later, but for anyone interested they're in a Ford exhaust manifold set, m8 1.25 both ends pretty sure.) as well as intake manifold bolts from Fastenal. New gasket from Zcardepot (I think, it's been a long time since I bought that) and tightened them by hand to around 22 lbs (I've read a few different actual specs, and I just guessed as I didn't have a 13mm in the 3/4 in size, which is what my torque wrench is. Probabaly will return to that one later). put on the carbs after a little refreshing and started re assembling all the pieces and taking off more emissions bologna!

 

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that's where I'm at now!

Also, Big question! If anyone can look for me and tell me which side the wiring comes out of for the steering wheel, left side of it or right side of it, that would be super helpful. I'm having trouble getting the reach I need and I think I did something wrong haha

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
So I'm buying a house and will be renovating it for a few months soon, so the z will have to wait a bit until I'm done in order to get fully finished sadly. With that in mind, I went into hustle mode and just started piecing together all the little things that needed to go back on. First up are the headlight buckets. My friend taigon was nice enough to give me a metal drivers side bucket as mine was fiberglass and no longer fit. I straightened out some metal on the front drivers side where there was a crumple about a year ago and what I didn't realize is that by straightening it out I also mis aligned everything, so my bucket on that side did not mount anymore. THe metal one at least mounts at one spot and then the screws going into the fender are mountable too, but you can see the gap towards the front of the inside. Oh well though! this thing is being built for weekend fun so I'm not too worried. I think I'll probably end up using mounting pins on the hood too or something, as these don't fit. I also re welded the bracket for the front grille on in it's current position, so If I ever went to "fix" it then I would also need to re align that. the hood pins seem a lot easier ha.
 

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I also put the front lip on! I have waited for a long time to do that one. It turned out pretty good I feel! Also, the engine bay flap things are on with their clips too, stoked!

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then theres a bunch of other little stuff! the horns, good popper, rear wiring threaded through the body, etc.

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mishimoto radiator, new hoses on everything, caps on the A/C ports that I'm blocking off, new oil filter and topped her off with some oil!

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also got a lot of new hoses for the gas tank and hooked them up, along with the vent canister. Now I'm waiting for a bunch of goodies I ordered to be able to get her running, including the fuel neck, long battery cable to move the battery out of the engine bay (since I removed the cancerous tray), the exhaust gasket, etc. 

 

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My fun money disappeared ever so quickly, and now I am at a loss for funds once again haha. I will update soon! She's almost back on the road! Then it's a bunch of tinkering!

Edited by Jboogsthethug
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  • 9 months later...

Hi Everyone! Firstly, I have been working on the car and things are going great, sorry for the lack of updates! I'll post more soon. I posted this in another area, but just to potentially get more answers to my question, here she blows!

 

So I recently bought a toggle panel/push button start combo (here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYRFLHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Pretty good build quality for the price, but I am rather uneducated when it comes to wiring. My goal is to be able to flip the first red switch and have that be my ACC power switch, then push the start button and off I go.

 

Currently,  It's getting power to the button but it's not cranking over anything. Also, when I turn the ACC switch the power goes through to the button, but even when I turn off the switch the current continues to flow through, I'm assuming the relay is set up incorrectly. After having that problem I did some research and drew up this diagram of what I think would be what I want, but in the diagram, I have the ACC toggle on its own, whereas I want it to be in line with the power to the button if possible. The Toggles are 3 prong units, so I think it's possible? I am hoping somebody can look this over and give me some practical advice and tell me if I'm close, and if not, what I need to change up! Thanks in advance. Here are the photos/

Start Button Wiring-01.jpg

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