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1969honda

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1969honda last won the day on September 30 2017

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About 1969honda

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    Near: Logan, Utah, United States

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  1. Go black anodize, IIRC if you have them tumble finished first it comes out more like a satin/matte than a high gloss. We did some brackets at an engineering shop I worked for in college and found out by accident on some robotics parts that needed to be glossy. A good platter/finisher should be able to show you samples before committing.
  2. They look fairly symmetrical, possibly flip 180 for front exit and turbo 😈
  3. Love the use of a hub and old brake rotor. Very keen to see the finished tank, looks very unique and functional; also sounds like a great use of the storage bin space!
  4. Very impressive, are you still running the stock rear and drive axles? I thought I could see a cv boot in one picture but not 100% on that.
  5. No pictures of the spectacular aircraft turbo setup? Build yourself a rotisserie, while your at it go down the local big rig shop and grab an old air brake S-camshafts and a cheap manual slack adjusters ($10-15). Grab a bushing kit, ~$30 and will come with enough bushings to do two cams, a new tub DOM tube sized for the bushings (can't remember measurement off hand) and then weld whatever attachement plate you desire to the cutoff S-cam and you're set with 22:1 gearing that locks in any position you desire. I got the idea from some engine stands I've seen done this way, I currently have two modified harbor freight stands that I'm waiting to setup once the wife's Yukon is all put back together. (first picture is mine, second was shamelessly stolen from a google search)
  6. If you're still having trouble with your 4l80, the HMMWV uses the 4wd version of the transmission and the manual for complete rebuild is located here in section 28: https://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-9-2320-387-24-2.pdf There is also a dropbox link I downloaded the GM service manual from here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/h7ckb9edafc7cgd/4L80E.pdf I can't remember from skimming thru your youtube videos, but are you running the L80 or L85? The 85 is supposed to be rated for more input torque and has an extra gear on the planetary IIRC. Also @jpndave is pretty familiar with the GM autos and has good idea on how to beef them up easily as well as who's parts seem to work best from several of the different suppliers (Sonnax, Trans Go, etc....)
  7. I don't think the gearing really is the reason for more swaps, I think it's just it's an import transmission, holds lots of power and brand new costs about as much as a used T56. CD009 3.79 2.32 1.62 1.27 1.00 0.79 and reverse 3.45 T56 Wide 2.97 2.07 1.43 1.00 0.80 0.62 and reverse 3.28 T56 Narrow 2.66 1.78 1.30 1.00 0.74 0.50 and reverse 2.90
  8. That grannas racing website appears to be using the sikky remote shifter (https://www.sikky.com/product/t56-shifter-relocation-kit/) which I've read can feel vague due to the remote mount. The new fbody Magnum coming out would definitely be a step in the right direction. A brand new CD009 is like $1700 from Nissan though and would hold up really well.
  9. If it's actually galled and threaded on to the shaft you might try a nut spliter so you don't screw up any misaligned threads on the way off.
  10. Jeff is there a way I could get a copy of this as well?
  11. Pull the bell housing off the t-56 (easier to handle that a full transmission) and you should see that all of the holes but one should line up from what I've researched. After that your should be able to call a reputable clutch/flywheel suppliers and source the rest off the shelf. You can also switch the mid plate, input shaft and bell for the lt1 trans if you don't want a hydraulic release bearing.
  12. IIRC @texis30O has a Maggie charged LS2 in his stable of Zs.
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