Hugh Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 I knew a guy in Japan who ran a shop and had a drag Silvia. He was putting out ballpark 450-500hp at the wheels with a T04R on an SR20DET. He had a Quaiffe 6-speed tranny. He was having problems with it breaking and decided to sell it. When I asked him to sell it to me, he wouldn't.. because he was sure I'd be breaking it too. (my 180sx was a tad over 400rwhp at that point) He twisted the input shaft a couple times and completely snapped the output shaft three times. One of the output shafts went the first day he raced on it. Now granted, this guy was launching at like 7000 or so and wrapping it out to 9000 or more before he shifted on a weighted OS Giken twin plate flywheel.... but still, he was breaking them like its cool. Since then, I've been afraid of Quaiffe trannies for the SR20DET for that fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 He had a Quaiffe 6-speed tranny. It all depends on which Quaiffe 6 speed he was running, They make 3 different ones and I know of one that's been behind a VRL Viper GTS for a couple years. That car ran 8s and also road raced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 They make a box specifically for the SR20DET... thats the one he was breaking. I guarantee it wouldn't survive in an 8 second car, thats for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jsquared Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 JWT's ECU programming is always on the safe side. HAHAHA! exchange "safe" for "crap" and you'll be right on the money. I've seen anywhere from 11.5:1 to 13:1 on JWT mail-order ECUs, and they've all had crappy timing maps. S13 SR, S14 SR, S14 KA-T, Z32 twin, etc. If you're not local where they can tune it on a dyno, don't bother ordering JWT ECUs. Their SR20DET cams are supposed to be pretty good though. As far as the stock head not revving past 7500rpm, I'm sorry but you are wrong on that one. My program for the turbo ECU had the rev limiter set at 8000rpm! So you're taking a poorly-reprogrammed ECU revlimit as fact and cold, hard real-world information for granted? 7500rpm, 7700-7800 if you have Rocker Arm Stoppers and a sense of adventure. Much above that and you need solid lifters... Fitting larger injectors to an SR ususally involves the requirement of a GReddy (or equiv) rail & manifold no. You can either get a set of drop-in side-feeds for $300 or less, or get a set of top-feeds and a low-cost top-feed rail. stock manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraz240z Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 I'm sorry I can offer any tech advice on the SR20DET 240Z swap. However, I have to ask "why do you want to do that?" This is a very opinionated post, so if you get offended easily you may not want to read any further. I think that putting a 4 cylinder in a car that originally had a 6 is rediculous. Here is the reason. If you are going to go to the trouble of installing a non-L6 turbo engine in a Z, why an engine of lesser power than the turbo L6? The S13 Silvia engines were about 170HP. A turbo L6 can do better than that stock, and more torque to boot. All of this with much less fabrication hassle. You will undoubetly need to run a Silvia transmission because the Z trans will not bolt to the SR20. If you are looking for a lightweight engine, why not a 20B rotary Mazda? Those can be modded to 500+ hp and are very light weight. How about a VG30ET or VG30DETT. Those have some serious HP potential. The SR20 IMHO is not as great an engine as it is cracked up to be. I've seen many of them with broken bottom ends. Things like spun rod and main bearings. Plus, the HP potential of the SR20DET is only about 300 without very serious mods. Truthfully, the stock bottom end will not hold up under the stress of more than 300hp. You have to remember that the SR20 is an all aluminum engine, and the block starts to flex under high-HP loads. This is all just a rant, but I truly think that installing a 4-cylinder engine in a Zcar is an insult to the car. I can't think of a better way to rice-out a Z than installing a 4-cylinder. Keep in mind that this is just my opinion, but man, you can do better than that. What's this swap gonna cost you? Wouldn't it be better spent on an RB20DET or RB25DET? I can think of tons better engines than the SR20. If you really want an SR20DET, why don't you put it in a 510? There have been many documented SR20DET into 510 swaps. The 510 would be faster than the Z because it's lighter. I guess I've gone on enough. I don't usually do that, but damn, don't put a 4cylinder in a Zcar! Ian the hp rating is 205 s13 225 s14 255 s15 if you have a red top it is capable of 400hp the black top about 450hp with proper tuning ofcourse and why would you want a unreliable rotory they are as good as trash you also get a better weight distribution it will be like the s2k bigger is not always better I have had a 600hp at the wheel in a mustang and ran high 10's and got beat by 2.0 liter honda's before so don't underestimate a 4 banger motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 dude use a period! . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Dude, that post you quoted is from 4 years ago!! The world has awaken, and realized the SR20DET is no joke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M3This Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 Hey guys im just a noob but I read through this whole post as well as ton of others. Here is my question ... is there a single thread (or maybe one of you more experianced guys can create one if not already in exsistance and make it a sticky) ... that contains a list of all the parts needed for this swap? I mean like a shopping list + the addtional misc bits to know about before jumping into this. That would be a huge help for Noobs! Just an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianz Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 If youd like to see some sr20s that have already been swapped into a z, check out http://www.vildinimotorsport.com/ or http://www.sr240z.com/sr240z/sr240z.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M3This Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 If youd like to see some sr20s that have already been swapped into a z, check out http://www.vildinimotorsport.com/ or http://www.sr240z.com/sr240z/sr240z.htm Yea I check them out. Their cars are awsome! but still no real list of parts needed for the swap. I noticed he is running a vertical mount IC and Im sure the mount is full custom so what is needed? Do you have to run that GReddy intake manifold? as I know a lot of guys that do the SR20 swaps into the 510s run them. Those are the type of questions I have and if there was a "shopping list" of sorts it would make questions like that of noobs like my self be non exsistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 We've never compiled a shopping list, really, but Vegas isn't too far from Vildini. (only 4 hours or so, the way I drive) so you could bring it to them. If not, they've been known to sell the mounts to hang the motor. I would reccomend a standalone to run the engine. You will also have to convert to fuel injection from carbs, so the fuel system needs attention. The driveshaft is custom.. you'll need a good radiator and intercooler, and custom piping for that and the exhaust. It's not a super cheap swap, so be prepared to drop some cash on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M3This Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 So basiclly the following: Motor Trans Motor Mounts Intercooler EMS or ECU & Wiring Radiator Custom Driveshaft Custom Piping New Fuel System Custom DP and Exhaust What about Intake Manifold? Will the stock one fit? also what about the Exhaust Manifold will the stock unit fit ? Sorry for the 10,000 questions .... I'm just debating on this or the RB26 swap. Trying to get a full cost estimate on what it would cost to do each option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR240Z Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 yes, stock intake manifold and exhaust manifolds will work as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 If you cant compute what parts you will need and the cost, etc etc etc before you start an sr20 or RB project, you probably shouldnt be attempting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M3This Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 If you cant compute what parts you will need and the cost, etc etc etc before you start an sr20 or RB project, you probably shouldnt be attempting it. I like how you changed the smart ass V8 comment to the one above I my be a noob to the 240Z but Im not a noob to building cars. I have built several classics with my father growing up like 2 1959 Cads, a 67 Camero, and a few others. On top of it I did all my own work on my current track car (06 Evo IX) so before you judge people should think twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest The Stig Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 I like how you changed the smart ass V8 comment to the one above I my be a noob to the 240Z but Im not a noob to building cars. I have built several classics with my father growing up like 2 1959 Cads, a 67 Camero, and a few others. On top of it I did all my own work on my current track car (06 Evo IX) so before you judge people should think twice. It's Camaro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 I like how you changed the smart ass V8 comment to the one above I my be a noob to the 240Z but Im not a noob to building cars. I have built several classics with my father growing up like 2 1959 Cads, a 67 Camero, and a few others. On top of it I did all my own work on my current track car (06 Evo IX) so before you judge people should think twice. Well, the v8 comment was removed by I because its a typical comment anyone would share with someone having a hard time getting a plan together. I dont see why you need to bring it up. Lets just calm down here. What i am trying to say, is that it looks like you are attempting to rustle together all the parts needed for the build before you start. Its a lot more simple to buy the engine and transmission first, get them mounted and aligned, then collect parts as you move on to other aspects of the build. I personally know several guys who have done the swap, and the 2 men who have completed several of them in SoCal. Its a handful, and if you arent able to plan first and take small steps, its gonna bite you in the butt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest The Stig Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 I had one of those 240z's with SR swaps that Dave was talking about... fun car. I had a lot of help finding parts by talking to Alex (SR240z) at Vildinimotorsport. They know a thing or two about the swaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M3This Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 if you arent able to plan first and take small steps, its gonna bite you in the butt. and thats just what I was going before you jumped down my throat. I was really trying to see what in the long run will cost more. If the RB can be done for the same money or less I think I will go with that as I would refer the torque factor of the inline 6 over the 4. Plus it keeps some the nastaglia of original car. Thats why I was trying to make a list of parts needed for the swap so I could price each one out for a total build cost. The RB I have already done that with. and to The Stig .... I never said I could spell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 the difference in cost is probably just the difference of the initial cost of either motor, because both of them need the custom piping/mounts/driveshaft/ecu etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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