rk2334 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 (edited) Hey Forum, I would like to share my project . Before three years I was planning to do AWD 240z. Bought 240z 72 without engine and gtr32 half cut , Skyline R32 - GTR , Engine RB 26 - Manual 4WD. After long search found out very costly with less potential benefits build. Here is my progress so far. Started installing rb26 engine with rb25 gearbox rb25 oil pan cut and fabricate metal adapter then welded it on oil pan Edited August 4, 2015 by rk2334 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 (edited) Switching the R32 complete rear frame/diff subframe Instead of cutting body frame I cut all arms support and cross diff support then allocated them while subframe fitted with adaptor plate. gtr 32 rear suspension will not fit because it is short instead i used r34 suspension with modified head. Edited August 5, 2015 by rk2334 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TUME Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I have a feeling that you messed up suspension geometry big time.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 I have a feeling that you messed up suspension geometry big time.... I think rear suspension within tolerance range Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TUME Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) I think rear suspension within tolerance range You mean alignment, it's possible. I mean what happens when suspension moves. Looks like you have lots of squat and toe in when inbound. Edited August 6, 2015 by TUME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 More pictures.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clocker Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 I see no way the front upper a-arm mount doesn't flex/deflect like crazy under load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 I ordered SILVIA FRONT+REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM and R32 REAR UPPER ADJUSTABLE CAMBER CONTROL KIT from ebay. Fitted and tested, moving up down smoothly. Now looking more Powerful and reliable than the stock. Tail shaft and pinion center line (angle alignment) are parallel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 (edited) Went ahead and swapped the front amount with R34 front suspension, R32 Front Knuckles, Hubs, Suspension, drums, braks and gts32 lower front control arms and kept the oem front crossmember and tension rods. Made two custom threaded adapters welded with knuckles. Also removed upper oem suspension cup, trim them from edge and made custom base plate bolted on upper r34 suspension to mate oem cup. I Cut upper control arm(caster angle) of r32 because of not enough space to fit it in the body and replace it with holder lever that move up and down but ran into an issue with high speed stability and ugly looking Edited August 12, 2015 by rk2334 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TUME Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 (edited) That front suspension is not going to work. You have two turning points on upside of axle. Shock is turnin it's upper mount aswell knucle bearing. That extra mount is reducing shock moving inwards when suspension moves. You gonna need some kind of upper arm with it. Like this, or other idea; weld that knucle to that upper mount so it can´t turn there. Other issue is steering, when you have front steering rack, steering arms can't be that way. Well, they can but you have anti-ackerman effect on your steering. Edited August 13, 2015 by TUME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 That front suspension is not going to work. You have two turning points on upside of axle. Shock is turnin it's upper mount aswell knucle bearing. That extra mount is reducing shock moving inwards when suspension moves. You gonna need some kind of upper arm with it. Like this, or other idea; weld that knucle to that upper mount so it can´t turn there. Other issue is steering, when you have front steering rack, steering arms can't be that way. Well, they can but you have anti-ackerman effect on your steering. Thanks for your input man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 I bought aftermarket R32 front tension rods and nissan galoria aftermarket front suspensions. I modified suspensions upper part my removing top cup and machine plate same as stock size drill bolt holes then welding tack lock the bolts to not loosen when running. Fitted drums and brakes of r32 straight with no issue. Installed silvia aftermarket adjustable front lower control arms. They didn’t fit directly I widen the crossmember arm pivot points rack by around 7mm to fit arms’ pillowball. * Started the conversion to power steering gearbox from nissan. It fitted on stock rock nicely, but right rod was found short so I machined extension piece welded with right tie rod end. The stock swaybar not fitting with new modifications so I bought nissan slivia s13 front swaybar but it was wider than body by about 2inch so I cut it from meddle then shorten it from both side by one inch then welded it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 More pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Bro, you work FAST. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 (edited) Yeah bro, I've been working on it for about 3 years now my first thread was this http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108582-240z-awd-swap/ got rid of stock clutch boost cylinder and Installed gtr32 clutch booster cylinder with minimal adjustment made aluminum glove box and it fitted perfectly Edited August 19, 2015 by rk2334 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 To overcome excessive heat from turbos in the bay, I chose to install 280ZX vents because they are bigger and have more holes to let move air out accumulated heat than stock 77-78 hood vents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) Body work Replacing Passenger Floor and driver floor were very corroded.Also welded small rusty areas all over the body. I modified body seat base to fit 300z seats. welded support bars to protect body from cracking and for safety. Instead of using por15.I used cheaper and stronger tar paper roll 3mm, that used for sealing building roofs, for covering the floors from noise and rust. Finished up Shorten the spare wheel well and made removable fuel cover tab for custom fuel tank, then rewelded it back as nice as possible to give stock looking. Edited September 7, 2015 by rk2334 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) I've completed the body work and now paint time Edited September 7, 2015 by rk2334 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk2334 Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Dash had large crack holes, they were splitted the edges of the cracks flare upwards. I filled them with fiberglass then sand and flatten these flares down, then painted with plastic but cracks were in the typical places, and you could slide your fingers through them and may crack again in future. So decided to cover the dash with carbon fiber. First i painted it with epoxy resin and hardner coat to make it solid protected from any future cracking and flatten it out then layout carbon fiber cloth then put epoxy coat lastly, spray it with clear lacquer paint and do the same for all interior plastic pieces. Edited September 17, 2015 by rk2334 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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