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TUME last won the day on January 1

TUME had the most liked content!

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About TUME

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  • Birthday 05/03/1972

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  1. Yes, camber gain is good, but in this case i´ll say there is too much. Good point with roll center also. Short upper arm moves roll center dramatic. Weight distribution was one of main reasons for my decisions with engine and other stuff. My goal is rear weighted FR car. I wanted ~55% weight on rear wheels. Now you´ll ask why not 50/50. Because in braking weight moves to front, and then balance stays better than 50/50 starting ratio. What is my final thought of this kit, i´ll say it is too much trying to be "track attack- best for money can buy" As i say, overkill. I think good designed McStrut would be better than this. And finally, my car build is more like journey, not just car to be driven on track or so... It´s my way to challenge myself and see what man can do.
  2. Wow, didn´t realize porsche is that holy... Well what comes to this "ultimate" suspension, it has pros and cons for a same reason: It is bolt on. First, front upper control arm is pretty short. This means that camber gain is massive. I would prefer lomger arm´s, upper and lower also. Coilover attach point maybe lower control arm. Back, i´ll say that push-rod system is unneccessary. Just show off, i think and extra weight. Can´t say much of geometry cos poor angled pictures. So, front is suffering badly bolt-on caracteristic and back is bit overkill. Back maybe performs better, but too much extra weight (push-rod system) Allthought there is lots of adjusting possibilities, sadly they are just holes to choose and not stepless. but $8700? I wouldn´t bother. That why I used S13-based suspensions in my car, front and rear. Miata should be good donor for a great handling Z. Just need some cutting and welding. Btw. Mc Strut system isn´t that bad, it´s just difficult because it need space so much horizontaly.
  3. Or is it just because you can't get decent balance. Are we talking about apples and oranges here.
  4. It´s just because it´s a Porsche. They did massive mistake with putting an engine in back of the car. Since then they are sruggling with it. Suspension and car dynamics are everything with weight. In that 911 they have so much weight in rear tires that suspension must be stiff, still weight is in corners by 90% outer wheel. What is fastest way to drive through corner? Yes, it is all weight equally in all tires. Nobody designs car wich is cornering just 3 wheels, unless you have to (because weight) WEIGHT IS EVERYTHING, that is where to start. And these Apex, Arizona, 3T system suspension things are basically just the same, because they don´t change dynamics. Adding static camber, etc. is helping but dynamics are still the same. To chance it you had to study you´r cars wheel movement in action. Put the car in poles, take the spring out of strut, and move tyre up and down. You want for 1deg camber gain per inch of a wheel travel. And that is just dynamic camber gain. Things you have to study, there is dozens. So buy these books, read them, think of what you just read and read again. Try to understand what causes what. I you don´t want use your head, buy some bolt-on parts and go driving... One thing last, there is no suspension that is best for everything, they are all compromice with something.
  5. There is sure possible worn joint or so. Here is my column serviced. Is bottom of upper axle that spring you mentioned? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-column
  6. Possibly intrested of windshield also, just curious how much € and shipping to Finland?
  7. Are those numbers directly from mustang? What are geometry numbers in 240Z with these parts? Same? My suspension is made of 240SX parts, and cost almost nothing except coilovers. BUT, I moved strut upper mount. I think it is still better idea, i`ll get KPI 14deg, caster 7deg, scrub is near zero with ET35 wheels and rest is adjustable. Well, so is caster, but thats what I want. Caster is good to be half of KPI, that is giving good camber behavior when turning. I haven´t measured camber curve or bump-steering yet, but will try to get time for that. Of course there are difference with bolt on parts, but most cases result is better and much cheaper with so fabrication involved. Just my thoughts, no hard feelings... Btw, there are pics in my build topic: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128677-arttus-240z-never-ready/
  8. I've done that too. It is fairly easy to disasseble and service. My Clock had loosen screw and thats why one of axles were dismounted. So then gears won't touch anymore.
  9. That is hard goal, for sure. You practically must move you'r pickup points on crossmember. Many holes, maybe, but not so practical. Have you thought using rod ends for inner pivot on control arm? If so, maybe vertical long bolt and pile of thin spacers would be handy. Then there must be adjustable tie rod ends aswell... Something like this: https://images.app.goo.gl/tfaPFYxVY2HZvKad7
  10. What I did first, was to determine ride height. Then was adjusting bump-steer by raisen LCA's pivot point. Last I raised whole crossmember to archieve desired roll center. Witch is now about 2-3" above ground depend on tires, and small adjustmens on coils. Just want to say that things are influating in others.
  11. I just can't get those patches and rust repairs. Is it so hard or slow/expensive or what to weld them properly. My car was also repaired like shit and think that welder was blind.
  12. It depends your car F/R weight ratio, center of gravity, wheel base etc. I came up near 60/40 because SR engine. Use calculator to clarify, couple messages backwards. Jake Lathams calc was broken but there was substitute.
  13. I think you`ll be just fine with those. As mentioned, coil ratios are bit harsh. Those coils has been driven many many years here and i don´t reckon much problems. Here is test report after 8 years and 50000km with S13. It´s only finnish, but you´ll get the point. https://www.race.fi/fi/news/entry/284/d2-coilover-review
  14. http://www.jakelatham.com/radical/info/brake_calculators.shtml#MaxGBraking I used calculator above with my setup.
  15. Bit bodywork on the rear end. Installed new fuel cap behind licence plate to hide it. Almost started to fab chevy-style plate flipper, but maybe be happy with some magnets to keep it close. Also replaced rusted hatch lip with aluminium one. Installed with glue and couple of rivets. Those water rails on hatch surroundings get more length to avoid water problems in future. Some problems occured with front fenders, driver side is ~1/4" longer than other. Is this common?
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