Old Man Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 2001 LS1/T56 installed in a 1973 Datsun 240Z. Tilton Master Cylinder 75-875U, 32" hydraulic line. Stock z rod was swapped out for the Tilton and is fully extended. Remote bleeder line is also installed. Brand new stock clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing/slave cyiinder, and flywheel. So here's the issue I'm having...The transmission will not go into gear, any gear. The line has been bleed numerous times with no air or change. Let me add here that this is the SECOND slave cylinder now on this car. The first one blew the seal and leaked the fluid out. This was done by simply pressing the clutch pedal trying to bleed the system. The car has zero miles on it. I have read through the threads here and have yet to discover a simular issue. So if your out there and you found a solution to this issue...Help please, Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) You should retitle your thread as "LS1/T56 clutch disengagement problems" or something like that, and add more detail on the clutch parts. Maybe your .875 bore master isn't right for the "stock" slave cylinder. "Stock" for what, for example. Anyway, there are few guys on here that have been deep in to their LS1 clutch problems. You just need to catch their eye. Edited out my confusion on "slave cylinder". Edited September 12, 2015 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) I feel your pain. Three possibilities: 1) insufficient slack in pedal stops not allowing master cyl to "recharge". 2) air in the line 3) bad master cyl Start by loosening up all the pedal stops so that the pedal is going full stroke. That sucker needs to return ALL the way up when bleeding (fine tune travel AFTER you get all the air out and the clutch has proven to be reliable). Loosen the pushrod enough that you can jiggle it a little-you don't want that rod tight when bleeding. The pedal should have a little slack in it at the top. Re-bleed system, start with bench bleeding. Make sure the remote bleeder outlet is HIGH -air rises. I went thru a couple bad master cylinders before I got a good one. Get a plug for the line that comes out of the master so that you can isolate just the master. Bench bleed the master, then put a plug in it. That pedal should be like a rock and it should stay that way and not leak down. I fought my clutch for a month. Everytime I have had trouble since them it has been due to #1. You gotta have the stops fully loosened to get the air completely out. Tell me how it works out. Hang in there-you will get it. Edited September 12, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Your shifter could also be an issue. Make sure you have the correct shifter. There is a difference between a Camaro t56 and a gto t56. The portion that engages the shifter seems to fit but in reality it misses the mark . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Man Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) Hello, I have an update to my T56 not going into gear. As directed, master cylinder was tested, bench bled, and found to work perfectly. The system was bleed completley with the removal of all air. All the stops on the clutch pedal were removed...no change. Pulled the engine/tranny again and pondered my next move. Got on LS1Tech and researched shims for the clutch slave cylinders. Made all the necessary measurements and ordered the needed shims from Tick Performance. With the proper shims installed I felt confindent I had found the solution. This would not be the case, still zero change with the slave cylinder shimmed! Really? I completely disassembled the clutch kit I had purchased and called the supplier. They directed me to return the clutch for inspection, which at this point I was very happy too. Upon testing the pressure plate they/we found it was the issue all this time. I now have everything new installed, tested, and back in the car, it works great! Went up and down my street terroizing the neighbors with open headers...Happy!!! Edited October 7, 2015 by Old Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Yippee! What clutch was that? Good to hear about good customer service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Congrats on the determination to find and fix it. Nothing sucks more than defective brand new parts, nothing. Good job. Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98blackbell Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 That will make ya happy. Nice to find is not you even though that was a hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Man Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 The clutch kit was OEM manufactured by LUK. Ryan the LUK rep went above and beyond to assist and make things right. I called prior to arriving, once I got there I became his priority. Twenty minutes later I had a completely new clutch set up. And yes, you do feel like "what am I doing wrong"? All I know is that after this experience, my left leg is twice as big as the right from pushing the clutch pedal! Lol. Down to the exhaust shop next:). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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