Zetsaz Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Is that 3M undercoat just a spray on product? That's the only ones I've been able to find. Fortunately that means it's easy to apply. I assume you bought the regular undercoating and not rubberized? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 Is that 3M undercoat just a spray on product? That's the only ones I've been able to find. Fortunately that means it's easy to apply. I assume you bought the regular undercoating and not rubberized? Yes it's just the regular spray on can with the green label. Who knows how it will end up holding up but I guess I'll find out. but I sure like the way it looks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 made a threaded block plug for the crank case vent. I wanted to be able to just screw in a fitting for a line to the catch can, so i went to lowes and ended up finding a brass fitting that was threaded on both sides. I milled down the outer threads just enough to press it into the block. Its solid enough for my use, ill be running a line to a vented catch can along with the valve cover vent. Also finaly got my super sweet gold heat reflective film, and got the heat sheild in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdi Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Fellow nw guy here. Looks awesome you definitely done as much work ad I've done to my Z except it's taken me 6 years lol. Married kids..you know the deal. So I just finished rebuilding a junkyard 83zx 5 speed and installed that. Today I just finished installing a front differential out of a nissan 720 4x4. Took it all apart to swap the buttons out of the side gears so my stub axles will bolt on. Looks like it's barely even used. It's a 4.38 ratio so it's bound to make hole shots real fun. How was the floor instal? My passage needs it real bad. I got a set of zed findings floors and rails, I'm just a little scared cutting into the body. I'm a mechanic not a body dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Fellow nw guy here. Looks awesome you definitely done as much work ad I've done to my Z except it's taken me 6 years lol. Married kids..you know the deal. So I just finished rebuilding a junkyard 83zx 5 speed and installed that. Today I just finished installing a front differential out of a nissan 720 4x4. Took it all apart to swap the buttons out of the side gears so my stub axles will bolt on. Looks like it's barely even used. It's a 4.38 ratio so it's bound to make hole shots real fun. How was the floor instal? My passage needs it real bad. I got a set of zed findings floors and rails, I'm just a little scared cutting into the body. I'm a mechanic not a body dude. 4.38 wow let me know how that thing is to drive, I’m interested. The floors were defiantly time consuming and a royal pita, but other than that it’s not that difficult. Just don’t cut too much until you know where it’s going to sit, don’t want to make a bunch of small patch panels to fit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 few updates, I fixed the clearance problem with the front wheels. I swapped the RCA with NCRCA and everything cleared just fine. Thankfully I was able to pull just about all camber out with the top plates so i still have full camber adjustment as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 I also got a few new things from T3, i got the tri strut bar and the shiny new velocity stacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_rav Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 This build is looking awesome!!! So many shiny parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cbb Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 I could finally follow your build, aside from IG Lookin' pretty good! Those T3 stacks look the business Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 last month or two i havent done a whole lot since its been so cold out. But i did get a few minor things done I did a little modification to my cheap catch can and added a breather filter and got it mounted then i started the throttle cable conversion. made a bracket out of 2" angle iron. After i adjusted the arm and added the spring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 got the fuel rail all figured out, only thing is its going to be a real challange if i need to re jet the carbs. Otherwise i really like the location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 (edited) I also picked up a 280zx distributor and a MSD coil, have yet to put it in. Im also having some trouble figuring out a filter solution to the velocity stacks. The T3 stacks are quite large and dont leave much of any room to slip a filter on. was playing with the idea of a base filter but not sure i like that much. but other then doing a full airbox a sock filter would have to be really thin to work. something similar to this would be the base filter Edited February 5, 2016 by 73Fairlady Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) drilled and retapped the valve cover breather for 1/2 NPT so i could use AN fittings. came out looking pretty good. I have aslo been playing around with how to mount the fuel rail so it does not cover up the jets. i dont want to remove the fuel rail if i need to rejet the carbs. I tried this but its about 1/8" from clearing the tower bar. I ordered this 90 fitting that should give me a 1/4-1/2" more clearance. Edited February 19, 2016 by 73Fairlady Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Got a few other things done this weekend. I got the AN fittings and they clear everything with tons of room and leave access like i wanted. Now that i finally have that done, Ive gone through so many fittings... I also got my radiator, ended up going with a Champion 3 row with two 12" fans and shrowd. It is a little bit overkill for the set up but a little overkill never hurt anyone. Clearance is tight but everything fits. The fans came with those tie things to mount to the radiator, I didnt really like that going to the shroud so I hard mounted them with bolts instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 I had the botom thread strip out on the passanger side water outlet. I tossed around several ideas to fix, but not wanting to take the front cover off eventually found this. Its a M8 to M9 repair stud, was not easy to find. Ended up ordering it from a moped shop in the uk. But it works perfect! Also (i know its a crappy picture) I got my skillard door panels in. Have not been able to test fit yet but the finish and quality of these things are top notch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 (edited) Got a few things done over the weekend. I got the Misimoto rad hoses in and the distributor in, and got the new ss hard line and braded soft clutch line all run. then i got just a few random shots of how its sitting at the moment. Still have some small stuff on the engine/engine bay to take care of. Need to start working on body and interior. Edited February 29, 2016 by 73Fairlady Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 got my new quick release a few days ago. I do not like the tipical ball lock type, I had a bad experiance with one and wont go back. So surcjhing for a spline drive that was quality and wouldnt brake the bank, came accross this on a scca forum. LTB spline type, got it on ebay for $135 shipped. It was listed at $155 on ther site. feels very solid, will see how it holds up, but dont see it having issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Got some new parts in the mail, my repo JDM grill and my autopower roll par come in. And some pictures off progress because there cool looking. I’m also trying to figure out what to do about the steering wheel. It is too close to the driver with the quick release. Currently I have a Momo hub, from what I’ve found the BOSS hub and NRG hub are about the same. I’m thinking about using a Grant hub with adaptor or make something to work. The Grant hub should only be about an inch vs. 3 inches. Should give enough along with a wheel that’s not as deep to give a comfortable driving position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I’m also trying to figure out what to do about the steering wheel. It is too close to the driver with the quick release. Currently I have a Momo hub, from what I’ve found the BOSS hub and NRG hub are about the same. I’m thinking about using a Grant hub with adaptor or make something to work. The Grant hub should only be about an inch vs. 3 inches. Should give enough along with a wheel that’s not as deep to give a comfortable driving position. Assuming this is a harnessed car, you can do like I did and eliminate the crush portion of the MOMO hub. I needed a small spacer (available from NRG) to make enough space for the horn wiring, but you may not even need this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Assuming this is a harnessed car, you can do like I did and eliminate the crush portion of the MOMO hub. I needed a small spacer (available from NRG) to make enough space for the horn wiring, but you may not even need this. love this idea, Im going to have to tear into this when i get home from work today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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