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Spindle Pin Removal Complete! Advice / Tips Inside...


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Both spindle pins in my car were completely seized - no amount of anything was getting them out.  I soaked them in a pan of PB blaster, tried twisting the pin with a 4 foot cheater bar attached to a pipe wrench, mini sledge while still on the car, air chisel, etc, etc.

 

What finally worked?  Putting the entire hub in the freezer for 48 hours, hitting the cast hub section with an oxy/acetylene torch and slamming the hell out of it with a punch and 10 pound sledge hammer.  I drilled a hole in the center of the pin so that a punch would rest inside with out flopping around while I hit it. Had a buddy hold the punch in place with a pipe wrench so I would accidentally wack his hand with the sledge.

 

Just heat alone didn't work, but I think the combination of the pin being frozen (slightly contracted) and heating the outside cast (slightly expanded) freed it just enough to break free.  Just be sure to start hitting before the heat makes it's way to the pin.

 

I must have hit the thing 50 times before it moved a hair - and once it did, we were only able to move it another 1/4 inch before we gave up for the day.  Put it back in the freezer for 48 hours and started again until it eventually made it's way out.

 

Just thought I'd share my story in case it helps anyone out there!

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That might be the most inspiring story of perserverance I've ever read. I would not hit that thing 50 times hoping it "might" move. Might have been easier to drill it all out. Anyway, congrats on beating it. That is definitely a "Stage 5" pin removal. Congrats!

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I did mine a few months ago and used my motorcycle crankshaft puller that I use to install crankshafts into engines.  Doesn't work perfectly as the tube doesn't seat perfectly against the control arm and I had to use some square steel stock to space it away and rest on the tube of the control arm squarely. Just thought I would let people know that this tool does work and is available as there isn't a specific tool readily available.

 

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17166/Tusk-Crank-Puller-Installer-Tool

tus_07_cra_pul.jpg

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I've done it before royal pain it the rear (haha rear)  Any ways, the second set I did I became wise.  I took the assemblies to a local 4x4 shop (this guy builds crawlers etc, lots of custom fab work) he had them ready for pick up the next day.  Cost was about $30.

 

I'll never do it the manual way again NEVER!!!

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Car isn't really rusty at all, but I don't think these have ever been removed in it's 40 year life.  I tried just heat and air hammer / sledge / etc - but no dice.  I'm stubborn (and cheap) and pretty much refuse to pay anyone to do anything for me, so I was determined to get the thing out myself.

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  • 4 years later...

For instructions  to construct your own Spindle Pin Removal Tool, Go to V8t forums-Gen III & IV Chevy V8- Heavy Duty Frame Rails and Connections- #9 dated January 16,2019.   I bought only a few parts of Home Depot to build  and construction was only about an hour.

Otherwise, a Floor Hydraulic Press could be utilized.

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