kevinz Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Do these have to come off for the urethane bushings. It's been so long I don't remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinz Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 With them in place the bushings stick out a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 All is good as is. Nothing to remove from the control arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinz Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinz Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 One more question. I just replaced all the rest bearings and seals and now it is very tight and hard to turn the hub. Is this normal or do I have a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinz Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 I meant rear bearings. Auto correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 There is torque spec to check that rotation tightness. It's not very tight, you can turn it easily by hand, but it feels nice and stiff and smooth. You cannot make it spin free with a flick of your wrist for example. I think of it as the feel of a really old high end stereo volume knob. It feels like the knob weights about 10 lbs. Does the rotation have tight and loose spots? Shouldn't. First obvious question is did you remember to put the distance piece (that spacer pipe) in between the two bearings? Were the bearing seats perfectly clean so the bearing seat dead square? What torque did you tighten the big nut to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 There is a spec in the FSM for the rotating torque and end play. That's when there is a torque range for the nut. You torque to the lowest number on the torque spec and then measure me pnay and rotation torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) You may need to disassemble the stub axle and make sure the bearings are seated or that you didn't leave out the spacer. Note that the spacers are matched to the hub. See attached pictures from the FSM. Edited January 31, 2016 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Just realized that the guys who sell the high-performance axles never mention the distance piece. To johnc's point, #12, in this thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/35065-280z-stub-axle-vs-240z-stub-axle/?do=findComment&comment=1164179 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Just realized that the guys who sell the high-performance axles never mention the distance piece. To johnc's point, #12, in this thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/35065-280z-stub-axle-vs-240z-stub-axle/?do=findComment&comment=1164179 Trust but verify always. I reused the distance piece with the new axles I got from Modern Motorsports (Chequered Flag) and had no problem. They probably assume that the buyer knows to reassemble the axle using the original spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) Never mind. The distance piece just needs to match the bearing seats for the outer race in the casting. Overthinking. Edited January 31, 2016 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinz Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 Thanks for the info. I didn't do the bearings myself so I can't say for sure if everything is correct. I'm pretty sure somethings not right. There is a definite drag when turning them by hand. I'm going to take them back and have them double check everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Sometime the inside hub seal is not seated completely and that causes additional drag. Its supposed to be recessed into the hub. Some folks install it flush with the inside hub face and that causes a lot of drag. The seal will fail very quickly in use if not seated properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Here is a rear bearing replacement tutorial posted at http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html I prefer using a press instead of hammering the bearing in place as shown in the tutorial. John is correct. Be sure the seal is seated all the way into the hub. Even when the seal is seated it still drags on the companion flange some, but there should be no binding or force needed to turn the stub axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinz Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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