Crespo79 Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 (edited) Hello HybridZ! First time poster, avid reader and researcher of this forum. I'm posting on here for some help as I've hit a roadblock on my L28ET swap into my S30. I've got my motor completely re-assembled and am at the point where I'm trying to turn it over. The motor is getting fuel, spark, RPM signal to megasquirt, etc. but won't fully crank over and idle. I have a feeling its something related to my Megasquirt/TunerStudio settings and was curious if anyone can give me some insight on my settings in relation to my setup. Been doing a lot of searching on here and have been successful for this swap up to this point but again, hitting a roadblock. Alot of the guides I've found show the setup done using older versions of TunerStudio or Megatune and don't quite match the newest program out now. Motor and setup specs are below along with some TunerStudio and board pics. Thanks ahead for any insights you may be able to give me. F54 .020 over P90 Head Custom cam (unknown grind, has E33/88 written on it though, motor rebuilder had no information on it as the previous customer backed out of paying for the work) Fresh rebuild 7.9:1 Compression 440cc Injectors Pallnet Rail Walbro 255 Megasquirt 2 V3.57 w/ BIP373 Coil Driver, 2.5 bar MAP, Q12 and Q9 middle posts soldered and powered by +12V to injectors) Relay Board 82-83 Distributor (Need to double check trigger wheel, but 95% sure its factory) MSD Blaster 2 Coil Innovate SCG-1 Mishimoto Slim Fan Used a tune from Cygnus as a starting point from the Map Sticky titled "GREAT!!!!!" found here >>>>> http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/34536-megasquirt-map-information-sharing-all-code-versions/?p=906219 Edited June 6, 2016 by Crespo79 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I dont know know anything about tuner studio im still running on megatune, Have to upgrade to it myself.. But to get the engine running have you tried using starting fluid to get the engine to run ??. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 (edited) Did you make sure your spark was on the correct phase? Are your runners on the exhaust or turbo getting warm? Edited June 6, 2016 by winstonusmc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 trying to turn it over. The motor is getting fuel, . but won't fully crank over and idle. Custom cam (unknown grind, has E33/88 written on it though, motor rebuilder had no information on it as the previous customer backed out of paying for the work) 82-83 Distributor (Need to double check trigger wheel, but 95% sure its factory) "Crank" and "turn over" usually mean what the starter does. Rotate the engine's crankshaft. "Start" or "fire" would be when you get combustion. "Fully crank over" kind of implies that you heard a few pops, and it tried to start, but didn't. But it's unclear. A person would crank the engine, or turn it over, to get it to start or fire. "Crank over" isn't really a thing. The key to getting any engine to start is getting all of the moving parts moving and actuating in their proper timing. The valves need to open and close, and the spark needs to happen, when the piston is in the right spot. Check your cam timing, ignition timing, and whether or not the injectors are opening. Probably good to know also, 100%, what trigger wheel you have since MS is depending on that to do all of its work. Garbage in, garbage out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crespo79 Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 "Crank" and "turn over" usually mean what the starter does. Rotate the engine's crankshaft. "Start" or "fire" would be when you get combustion. "Fully crank over" kind of implies that you heard a few pops, and it tried to start, but didn't. But it's unclear. A person would crank the engine, or turn it over, to get it to start or fire. "Crank over" isn't really a thing. The key to getting any engine to start is getting all of the moving parts moving and actuating in their proper timing. The valves need to open and close, and the spark needs to happen, when the piston is in the right spot. Check your cam timing, ignition timing, and whether or not the injectors are opening. Probably good to know also, 100%, what trigger wheel you have since MS is depending on that to do all of its work. Garbage in, garbage out. I guess I should specify that its not starting or firing, I just hear a few pops and it tries to start but doesn't. I've verified the timing of the cam, distributor, and ran the test mode for the injectors. I smell fuel after cranking the engine and I've also verified that the spark corresponds to the advance in megasquirt, 16 degrees, via a timing light. I'm going to check the distributor wheel tonight and will also take some video of the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 If you've verified ignition timing with a light then you're pretty far along. Have you examined the spark plugs to see if they're wet? You smell fuel. Could be that everything's close but you flooded it with too much fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 (edited) Verify that you don't have the dizzy installed 180 degrees out. It's really easy to make this mistake when you're tired or in a rush. It's one of the first thing I do when a new engine refuses to start. Note: A Timing light will fire at the indicated timing mark with the Dizzy 180 degrees out... engine just won't run of course because it's on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. . Disable injectors and ignition through Tuner Studio. Remove #1 plug. Stick your finger over the hole and bump the engine over till #1 comes up on Compression stroke. Manually rotate crank ( or carefully bump over ) so that Timing Mark is at TDC or very close to it. Pop dizzy cap off and confirm that the rotor is pointing at #1 Spark lead terminal. Edited June 8, 2016 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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