Won't start after fuel rail upgrade

[Turbo_the_world]

Tried spraying some starting fluid into the throttle body while my wife was turning the car over. Boom!A nice fireball right back at me, usually I would assume this would be a timing issue, but I've made sure my plugs and timing are set more times than I've tried starting the car. I'm at a loss, I have no idea what else to try. I've never had this much problem trying to start a car.

[NewZed]

Believe what you see.  Figure out how it happened later.  

 

Did you pull the plug wires when you were doing the fuel rail work?  Or remove the distributor?  Many of these engines have been put together wrong and had their wires moved to "fix" the error.  You probably put the wires back the way they're supposed to be when the rest of the engine is right.  Put the timing mark on zero, with the cam lobes for #1 up, and see where the distributor rotor is pointing.  It should be pointing just left of straight ahead (there's pictures out on the internet somewhere).  Or do that and post a picture.  Or remove the distributor and see where the drive tang is pointed.

 

Equal voltage on both coil posts is normal.  It doesn't change until the distributor is spinning.

 

 

Here's some good information.  You don't need all of it.  http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Edited June 19, 2016 by NewZed

[Turbo_the_world]

Alright guys. This was all my fAult, I was being lazy and zed you were correct. I took on the assumption that since my car was running before the project that my timing was good. The distributor was 90 degrees out from tdc. Threw the plugs on to match the rotor and bam! Fired right up! Of course I will not be leaving it like that but I wanted to say thank you to everyone that helped and had suggestions. I was so frustrated, but it's because I was taking shortcuts. Thank you enough! Especially NewZed for being so persistent with helping me.

[NewZed]

Good news.  Now, back to those vacuum leaks...

 

Those two books are still worth looking through, The FSM and the Injection Guide.  Nissan did a great job of describing how everything on their cars works.

[pallnet]

Sir

I didn't know about this thread or I would have replied sooner. I see that you have the lime green topped Toyota injectors. They will not work with the stock Datsun EFI ECU.

The ones you wanted to switch to are in the thread below, second page and 8 posts down.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/52695-fuel-injector-upgradesswap/page-2

Thanks

pallnet

Edited June 27, 2016 by pallnet

[Turbo_the_world]

Well they workish, I havery already ordered new injectors as these ones are 330cc and my car currently runs like poop with them. Thank you for your reply though, luckily I had read that article prior and already have a set of those injectors on the way. Unfortunately I had to change my injector plugs again lol.

[NewZed]

Holy moley.  Didn't know you were running 312 cc (or 330, whatever, way too many cc) injectors.  Since you went with Pallnet it's assumed you went with his injector recommendation for a stock ECU.  The ECU is designed for a specific flow rate.  It doesn't adjust.

 

The high impedance injectors will, actually, work with the stock ECU.  With or without the dropping resistors.  Not sure if the fine details of opening times matter with the primitive ECU, but they do open and close as they're supposed to.

Edited June 27, 2016 by NewZed

[Turbo_the_world]

I didn't do as much research as I should have lol. I went with cressida injectors which I thought would be fine, I was thinking they would regulate but I didn't even think about the fact there's no oxygen sensor lol. Just a bit of mistakes for my lack of research. Now I will have injectors if I ever want to turbo this z. But hey! At least my carpet kit arrived and the new seats, interior is almost done so that's a plus.