cgsheen Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 (edited) I don't know that the swap will work as I showed, but the ignitor is after the coil negative, with no positive feed, according to the 1983 wiring diagram. So, not sure if you're mis-remembering the above. I just compared diagrams, the 1983 diag. is Post #14 above. You posted a component diagram, not an electrical diagram. The stock 280ZXT Ignitor (Power Transistor, Electronic Ignition Module) is grounded to the frame and has two wiring connectors via a "T" shaped connector on the ignitor: B/W from the ignition switch = battery voltage at IGN ON and Y/W = signal from ECU to fire the coil. The stock Ignitor passes power to the coil "+" terminal via a short B/W from the Ignitor to the coil. The output from the Ignitor is an L (blue wire) that runs to the coil "-" terminal. The amplified output of the Ignitor causes the coil to spark. I would say: look at the Turbo electrical diagram and you'll see what I'm referring to. I don't think I'm "mis-remembering" anything (apparently, I WAS!) - I've been over this dozens of times with multiple people and hands on with the stock coil/ignitor on numerous occasions. I don't know if the PRW-2 will work as intended, but I used one (unknowingly) with my F31 (Infiniti M30) engine management system for years. That was with the stock F31 coil and wiring harness setup however. I've never personally used one to drive the stock 280ZXT coil. However, it'll be an interesting replacement if it works for Ricky... But, the scheme follows the diagram above where the transistor "base" is connected to the Y/W from the ECU, the transistor "collector" is connected to the B/W (battery voltage @ IGN ON) (transistor "collector" should be tied to GND) and the transistor "emitter" is the L output to coil "-" It could be that the PRW-2 will perform the same function. Like this? I would say yes. Sorry for my mis-information, the transistor "collector" should be grounded (not powered) so change the power wire to GND. I'm interested to know if this works as a replacement, so be sure and let us know. And I hope you've double checked and cleaned your wiring connectors... Edited August 30, 2016 by cgsheen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 (edited) The stock 280ZXT Ignitor (Power Transistor, Electronic Ignition Module) is grounded to the frame and has two wiring connectors via a "T" shaped connector on the ignitor: B/W from the ignition switch = battery voltage at IGN ON and Y/W = signal from ECU to fire the coil. The stock Ignitor passes power to the coil "+" terminal via a short B/W from the Ignitor to the coil. The output from the Ignitor is an L (blue wire) that runs to the coil "-" terminal. The amplified output of the Ignitor causes the coil to spark. I would say: look at the Turbo electrical diagram and you'll see what I'm referring to. When I look at the diagram I don't see that. I see L (coil negative), ground, and Y/W (trigger Pin 5) as the three power transistor connections. B/W also supplies the EFI relay. Oh well. Good luck future experimenters. Page EFEC-98 1983 FSM. Edited August 30, 2016 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Oops When I look at the diagram I don't see that. I see L (coil negative), ground, and Y/W (trigger Pin 5) as the three power transistor connections. B/W also supplies the EFI relay. Oh well. Good luck future experimenters. Page EFEC-98 1983 FSM. OOPS! You're correct again. I'll go back and edit my incorrect posts above. The transistor "collector" should be grounded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Thanks. With the technical detail you've added a person might be able to get one of these to work. $8.50! For those on a budget. Probably need some added protection from the elements though, I'd guess. Not an expert, just like to solve puzzles. Messing around. Hopefully, somebody will come back and confirm a swap, although the HEI module swap is already well-proven and cheap. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/bosch-bip373-coil-driver-mod-kit/ https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/bosch-bip373-ignition/ https://www.diyautotune.com/downloads/products/bip373/bip373_datasheet.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cendo54 Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Just wanted to share that I hooked up the module as listed in NewZed's post and the car has been running fine so far. Picked up the module on ebay for less than $10. The original was melted and would shut the car down after a short drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LulaNord Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 (edited) Hi...as per my knowledge much newer technology and they put out a much more powerful spark than the Transistor boxes on the 280Z. The 1975 and 1976 boxes are the worst. Not much more spark energy than stock points system.If memory serves me correct current draw on the 75 and 76 boxes is only 2 amps. That pretty wimpy. I'll try and find the specs on the E12-80.. 4 amps seems to be ringing a bell. printed circuit assembly Edited July 6, 2017 by LulaNord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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