Throttle switch on Arizona Z car 65mm TB?

[zedikus]

So I've spent the last 30 minutes searching here before posting this - hoping someone has done this before. I called and talked to Dave at AZC, his initial response was "Never thought of that before". The issue I have is that I am running the AZC TB on my n42 mani on an l28et. The throttle switch on the AZC TB mounts on the opposite side of stock, and as such, the switch is backwards. My understanding is that for this setup (using JWT z31 ecu and a harness from an 81) my throttle switch is just open or closed. With the switch mounted backwards, open is reading as closed and closed is reading as open. Has anyone flipped their throttle switch or have a suggestion for me?

[zedikus]

After some more investigation and tinkering, it seems that maybe it doesnt matter if it's upside down. My CAS is toast. Gonna replace that, then test  again and see how we do. I have clean startup and idle, and can drive the car at low rpm/throttle, but once you womp on it, it gets grumpy. Still interested to know if anyone has experience with the AZC TB on an l28et.

[cgsheen]

CAS is "toast", but you have "clean startup and idle"?  I seriously doubt that...  The L28ET CAS gives the ECU it's RPM signal.  Without it, the ECU will never know the engine is spinning and will never apply spark or injector pulse.  The CAS doesn't just "sorta work".  

 

I had an intermittent fall out issue with my stock CAS years ago, drove me nuts.  Turned out to be a bad solder connection on one of the 4 spades.  But, it didn't ever cause a poor running condition - it shut the engine down completely when the ECU lost the CAS signal.  Normally I could restart either immediately or after a bit of cool-down.  Took me a while to get that one figured out and after I resoldered the spades, never had the problem again.

[softopz]

I am going through this exact issue at the moment. However mine is not a tps switch like the older z its a sensor (potentiometer) With my new manifold Its now counterclock wise opening vs clockwise. I did some research whats going to work with me (I also check with SDS ) is mount the sensor in fully opened in the D slot with a custom bracket locked in and just switch the + - wires. I dont know if that will work with the z31 it should just test with your multimeter between the pins first on a bech. Or you could get a different TPS that opens the right way, Also I agree with last poster I doubt your CAS is broken if your idling and running fine

[zedikus]

Thanks for that soft, I will give it a shot tomorrow.

 

So a little more info - the cas was def an issue. All the gel was melted out. We swapped that and it def idles and starts better than it did. As it is right now, the car idles great, but as soon as you rev under a load, it pops and acts like it doesnt have enough fuel. You can get it up to cruising speeds by giving it very little throttle and working your way up, but it seems if you go WOT or hit the gas more than maybe 10%, it bogs and doesn't accelerate. Currently the throttle switch is off, and at idle and while giving it gas while parked, it seemed to rev fine, but once you put a load on it, thats when it starts to fail.

Edited October 14, 2016 by zedikus

[zedikus]

The coil ended up being bad. Replaced the coil (which was new...so not sure how that happened) and it's solid now. We ended up disconnecting the throttle switch. Runs fine without it. Will rig something to flip the signal after we get everything else dialed in.