LS SWAP 280Z e A few questions for the wiz's

[ktm]

I reused the stock harness for the engine.  I had already rewired my car for FI from a previous swap, so I only need to connect hot and ignition hot wires for the most part.  Then again, I am very comfortable with car wiring so it was very easy for me.

[TheZkid]

Okay Gentlemen, thank you for the answers. I will be starting a build thread on here shortly.. I have a 76' 280, that's been already restored last year by myself and a couple guys. I was an apprentice mechanic years ago, after that I was an apprentice in the body shop next store. Learned lots and saved a lot of money the last few years with my own personal and family cars..

I would've loved to get the swap done first but the idea was still a twinkle in my eye years ago. Last month I pulled the engine and trans/harness and sold it to a nice fellow who drove down here from Georgia to pick up everything, incl. drive shaft, all mechanical components, water pump, pulleys, starter, fan, etc;; I live in the southern most part of Ontario in Windsor  CANADA! (the gutter of ontario... due to meth... lots of meth) The dude drove 15HRS. ONE WAY with his old man, who has never been to Canada until that day. Nice japanase people (I think) ..

 

Anyways, kept the body harness in tact, and right now, in the process of stripping the engine bay of all the junk and little spot welded on, tie downs and little brackets etc; stripped it down to bare metal and now spot welding, patching holes and smoothing it all out.

Now, my questions that I would LOVE some insight on ARE:

#1. [What] Engine mounts + exhaust manifold COMBINATION are going to be good for NOT having to mess with the STEERING SHAFT.

I have seen the most recent company who started this which is the adjustable stainless mounts from CX racing. Anyone have experience with those? In recent years I have had some CX parts here and there, and I must say, it looks like they are doing much better now a days, and not looking like a knock off company these days.

 

Mind you my LS1 is most likely going to be an f-body and f-body t56. Dont mind spending little extra $ and do NOT need crazy headers.
I know the Sanderson *? I know thats not right but the brand is slipped my mind, I believe its the JTR headers the supply?

Keep in mind with any of my inquiries **I am NOT building for max speed>  going for strictly reliability .. for time being.

 

#2. I have cut off my original trans mount and I am now wondering how much, and where (roughly) do we need to push/hammer in the trans hump? I know, I know, kind of a D-I-Y thing, and I have no issue with that. Just would like to get a rough idea for my first fit with the trans. I know I will taking it out at least once or twice when the time comes.

 

#3. The f-body trans, Is my first choice because I have heard that is the most correct size in length and least time tinkering with it to fit. Question is, what do I have to change on that particular T-56 if i do need to do anything with it? ALSO for the f-body LS1, I CAN use the stock oil pan that comes on the engine from factory - for this swap - CORRECT???

Thank you for your time and still trying to figure out how to post pictures.. Sorry still getting the hang of everything on here! Bare with me!

Any.. and the more the merrier for replies and answers. Not everyone has the answers and you guys have helped a ton in the past already.

 

 

I have learned a ton, but with my particular swap, engine, and year of car - this is the best type of way to learn , because it is going to be specific to my exact build. Yes, I have been through almost everything, and have printed out, diagrams, templates, pictures, and solutions to help me along the way. Anything I ask, is now just preferences and trying to get the best possible solution for my exact situation.

[walkerbk]

I have the cx racing kit in mine and it is very nice but I really don't like the engine mounts, kind of just seem weak to hold the motor. I have the long tube headers from them as well and although they are nice they are a pain to fit in there, there was no mods that had to be done, but I pray I never have to change the starter because it would be a week long job.

 

I am now wanting to turbo my car and can't because of the long tube headers.

 

If I had to do it over again, I would do the jcI kit as it mounts better and I think would fit better than the CX racing kit.

 

The camaro oil pan will fit and hang about 1" below the cross member. Not an issue for me because my exhaust is lower than that.