jbq Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 hi every one , I have 280z model 77 . I want to install an ac and my question is , does the ac effect on the efficiency of the car ? are there any problems that I should avoid ? as you know the car is very old , it used to be driven without ac , and if I change that can the car be driven without any issues after installing ac system ? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 The USA Z's had available factory installed A/C as an option starting in 1974. Most of us here in Arizona have A/C working in our Z cars. They work very well with the replacement R-12 refrigerant or converted to R-134a. The engine and A/C components aren't the thing that hamper the efficiency of the system - it's the dash duct work and blower design... To overcome the poor duct design somewhat, we use better blowers like the Kia blower swap (my personal choice) or the Honda Civic blower swap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 (edited) I would digress from the above statement in only one respect: the Condenser and Accumulator is outdated/undersized, and agree the blower fan is inadequate for proper interior heat transfer. Retrofit the largest MODERN condenser you can get, and find a receiver/drier/accumulator that is about twice the size of what came stock. In traffic, with a stock fan and shroud, along with auxillary pusher fans in front of the condenser to keep air flowing you will be rewarded with cool air from the registers even at 48 degrees at 11AM at low speeds. The compressor is actually oversized, and it's the heat rejection side of the equation that is weak for your area. As an example, I replaced the condenser on my Suzuki Every with one from a Kia Starex, all ng with the larger accumulator repositioned closer to the evaporator. The rest of the system remained the same. People can't believe the system blows 4 degree air at idle, in traffic, on a 42 degree day! Putting double limo tint on your windows with a UV rating, and louvre the back hatch and itbreally decreases the heat load inside the car as well. Upsizing to a Honda Blower will increase air turnover inside the car through the evaporator and get that interior cool. I used a modified fan housing and a 280ZX Fan on my 260Z myself, but the Honda fan may be easier to find in your case. Good Luck, a three or four core radiator along with a 72C thermostat will aid with the extra heat load across the radiator from the condenser being there. Edited November 8, 2016 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbq Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Thank you all for the info . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 If you don't have an a/c to start with why not install a Vintage Air unit. There are several threads here, and YouTube clips, to show how it is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Smith Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 I am doing the factory air in my 75 also. The receiver/drier in no longer available so I will try and find a suitable replacement. Most don't have the electrical pressure connection so makes it difficult. I am also going to convert to r134a since r12 is expensive and hard to find in California. I already replaced the fan/blower motor with the Kia one which I got new from Ebay. Also all new under dash ducting. Just hoping the stock compressor, evaporator, and vacuum is all good. On the fence with replacing the condenser. Not sure there is room to go much bigger. I did add the fan shroud and plan on a pusher up front if the stock fan doesn't do the job. I am guessing with changing to r134a I will need to ditch all the hard lines and replace with new soft lines. Think I will send all my components to an A/C shop to check them before installing. Good luck with yours and post how it goes...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 I am guessing with changing to r134a I will need to ditch all the hard lines and replace with new soft lines. ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Smith Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 (edited) ????? Due to new 0-ring fittings..... Edited November 19, 2016 by Ken Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Due to new 0-ring fittings..... Ya... Didn't help... My 1974 260Z has the original A/C hard lines - all "flare" type fittings. They didn't use "o" rings for the engine bay connections. 1975 and 1976 280Z's were the same. I converted mine to 134a before I put it on the road after the turbo swap - 8 years ago. I didn't make any other changes to the stock A/C system. No "o" rings, didn't need "o" rings in any of the liquid lines or suction lines. The only "o" rings you'll find in the stock system during those years are in the compressor and expansion valve. Being an old-school plumber, I've always preferred a flare connection as a seal over the "o" ring connections they introduced with the ZX series... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Smith Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Ya... Didn't help... My 1974 260Z has the original A/C hard lines - all "flare" type fittings. They didn't use "o" rings for the engine bay connections. 1975 and 1976 280Z's were the same. I converted mine to 134a before I put it on the road after the turbo swap - 8 years ago. I didn't make any other changes to the stock A/C system. No "o" rings, didn't need "o" rings in any of the liquid lines or suction lines. The only "o" rings you'll find in the stock system during those years are in the compressor and expansion valve. Being an old-school plumber, I've always preferred a flare connection as a seal over the "o" ring connections they introduced with the ZX series... The only issue I have with leaving the hard lines is the receiver/dryer need replacing so I will not be able to find one that works with the existing fittings and lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 The only issue I have with leaving the hard lines is the receiver/dryer need replacing so I will not be able to find one that works with the existing fittings and lines. Any receiver dryer from any 1973 Chevrolet will have flared fittings. You telling me Chevrolet parts suddenly have dried up? You are stuck in the "Datsun Box" and ordering accordingly. My Suzuki used a Kia Condenser, and a Toyota Accumulator, and is running R12 (1994 Model) because it's still relatively cheap and efficient in other places of the world! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 (edited) Any receiver dryer from any 1973 Chevrolet will have flared fittings. You telling me Chevrolet parts suddenly have dried up? You are stuck in the "Datsun Box" and ordering accordingly. My Suzuki used a Kia Condenser, and a Toyota Accumulator, and is running R12 (1994 Model) because it's still relatively cheap and efficient in other places of the world! Agreed - and a quick search on ebay turned this up pretty quickly (i didn't even include Datsun or 280Z in the search terms, just "receiver dryer")... ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-A-C-AC-ACCUMULATOR-RECEIVER-DRIER-FOR-NISSAN-280Z-280ZX-/291399249547?hash=item43d8bfae8b:g:Z3MAAOSwB09YJMWd&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Air-Conditioner-RD2501C-A-C-Receiver-Drier-fit-Dodge-Colt-80-82-/311474800781?hash=item488558488d:g:4IUAAOSw~bFWMn1d&vxp=mtr Edited November 22, 2016 by TimZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Smith Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 The problem with the dryer replacement is the connections. They don't line up with the old dryer and the pressure switch is non-existent. Maybe there is a different way to hook up the pressure switch? My a/c system is not in the car as my 75 never had a/c so I am going by all the parts I collected and also the diagram of how they should fit including Nissan part numbers. I have never had any experience with either r12 or r134a. Nor installing a/c in a car. This is all new to me but starting to learn. I would like to keep it original if possible but I don't want to sacrifice cooling. I did do the Kia blower upgrade and was told I need to replace the dryer and try to find a larger condenser. Thanks.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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