Kires Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Hi, all. I'm (hopefully) almost done installing the rebuilt engine and I've got a question about connecting the oil cooler to the block. As you can see, the block is set up to have an oil filter screwed into it, and I do have an aluminum oil cooler adapter that can be sandwiched in between the block and the filter to hook up the oil cooler. So there is an all-important plan B on deck. However, I also have the original oil cooler setup that came stock on the car, an '83 280ZX Turbo 2+2 and I'd rather use the original connector and hardware if possible, at least for now. Thing is, the block has a male connection for an oil filer to screw on, and the connector assembly I pulled off the stock engine has a male connection that's meant to screw into the block. I'm about 90% sure that the block's connection is just a threaded pipe, and so can be unscrewed with the aid of a pipe wrench and maybe a bit of foul language. However, I'd like to have someone who knows more than me check my math before I do anything that would require a machine shop to set right. So, is the oil filter connector a thing I can just unscrew from the block, or did some overly enthusiastic engineer decide it would be better to press fit the damned thing, and I'm going to have to go with the aluminum sandwich adapter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Yes, you can unscrew the part in the block and then use the OEM oil cooler/filter adapter. I have the exact setup on my Z and did just what I said, (remove the connection). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 I'd take some Lacquer thinner or Acetone and wipe away all that spray paint where the oil filter adapter screws on. Why would someone paint that area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kires Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 (edited) Thanks, Bob. I was actually wondering if I could get away with no oil cooler at all during the break-in period, but being able to use the old one will definitely be better. I'd take some Lacquer thinner or Acetone and wipe away all that spray paint where the oil filter adapter screws on. Why would someone paint that area? Thank you, sir. I was planning to take a wire wheel to it, but thinner or some other chemical would likely make less dust to drift off into an oil channel or something. I don't think they painted it intentionally; my guess is that it's just overspray, but still. I don't like the idea of having paint sitting there to potentially flake loose and lodge itself in a channel somewhere. (like the Turbo's oil inlet, for example). One guy I asked said it would be fine, that the paint was meant to handle oil or they wouldn't use it on an engine (okay, that makes sense), but my gut disagrees so I'll be removing it before I get the cooler connection on there. Also, I notice that both the oil cooler connection assembly and the block have bypass valves which will end up facing each-other when it's installed. The original block had its bypass valve blocked off. Is there any danger to leaving both valves in place and functional? If so, what would be the best way to go about disabling or removing one of them? Should I knock it out and tap the hole for a plug, JB Weld it, or for-real weld one of them so it couldn't open? Edited May 17, 2017 by Kires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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