theczechone Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Has anyone used this? wondering what peoples opinions were. It seems they have two different types https://zcardepot.com/exterior/sheet-metal/battery-tray-bracket-stainless-steel-240z-260z-280z.html?search=battery+tray https://zcardepot.com/exterior/sheet-metal/battery-tray-holder-sheet-metal-240z-260z-280z.html?search=battery+tray I'm leaning towards the cheaper one... well cuz it's cheaper and thicker gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 The more expensive one looks more fully enclosed due to the welding they did on the edges. If you have the setup to weld stainless steel, you could probably do it yourself on the cheaper one if you're worried about strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkumaNoZeta Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 It appears that the cheaper one only comes in stainless steel, I would only bolt that one in since it's not proper to weld mild steel to stainless steel. The more expensive one can be bought in mild steel so it can actually be welded in easily. Those won't fix the rust hole in the sheet metal underneath it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 I personally wouldn't even risk bolting it in to be honest, stainless steel contacting mild steel will result in the mild steel rusting at a faster rate than normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkumaNoZeta Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 I personally wouldn't even risk bolting it in to be honest, stainless steel contacting mild steel will result in the mild steel rusting at a faster rate than normal. True, but if your S30 is like mine, it has stainless steel drip rails that just clip onto the end of the mild steel roof. And on my car, that was pretty much the only spots not rusted out, haha. I think it would be fine if it the area is painted, and I would use some RTV between the surfaces to seal them from moisture better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 I agree with what you're saying re the drip rail, but there is an added potential for a bolt to break the surface layer of the stainless and the paint layer on the mild steel so it acts as a conductor. Also, the potential for battery acid to get between the layers greatly increases the probability of a conductive environment forming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theczechone Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 It appears that the cheaper one only comes in stainless steel, I would only bolt that one in since it's not proper to weld mild steel to stainless steel. The more expensive one can be bought in mild steel so it can actually be welded in easily. Those won't fix the rust hole in the sheet metal underneath it though. I do not want to weld in, i think bolt in is more than sufficient to hold the battery and easy to remove if i decide to relocate battery to the rear later on. I welded new sheetmetal in on the firewall and wheel well. Now just trying to figure out how to hold the battery. I agree with what you're saying re the drip rail, but there is an added potential for a bolt to break the surface layer of the stainless and the paint layer on the mild steel so it acts as a conductor. Also, the potential for battery acid to get between the layers greatly increases the probability of a conductive environment forming. You are absolutely correct that if you put stainless against mild steel there is potential for galvanic corrosion to occur. I plan to coat the contact surfaces of the stainless and the wheel well will be painted. I can also add a non-conductive washer between the stainless and the fastener. The potential for battery acid to get between the layers exist in any given configuration. Actually if there is an acid leak into this area. having the ability to remove the tray will be greatly beneficial for cleaning the area. If you are using the factory configuration there is no way to get the acid that gets between the layers out. Galvanic corrosion can occur between any two conductive materials. So if you have any aluminum, copper, stainless, or carbon fibre fastened anywhere to your chassis, beware! The corrosion occurs slowly and the fastener usually acts as the sacrificial cathode. Either way thanks for the input, i just ordered the cheaper version. I will post pictures once installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theczechone Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 Just in case anyone has same questions as mine, I installed the battery tray this past weekend. The cheaper version tray feels very rigid and nicely made. The fit is quite good, better than i expected, didn't have to bend or adjust anything. Installation was as easy is setting it in place, drilling and deburring the holes. I used some black RTV on the bolts to prevent road grime to get into the engine bay. I used plastidip to coat the back side of the mating surfaces to create a "rubber layer" between the tray and the wheel well. This should also help with the galvanic corrosion issues mentioned in this thread. I also used large fender style washers to spread out the bolt loads. Here are some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 FWIW you can weld mild to stainless without any special set up. It ruins the corrosion resistance of the stainless in the area where the welding is done, but you're already welding to non-stainless stuff anyway, so What? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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