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Everything posted by Neverdone

  1. You should get the panels for the sole reason of cutting out the exterior sheet metal so you can properly treat all the rust that inside of there. Yeah, it's 100 bucks now, but you'll have gladly spent that for WHEN your paint goes bad (not if).
  2. I'm replacing most everything on my Z, and even trying to go as cheap as possible on everything, and using lots of junk yard parts and doing 100% of the labor myself, I still can't find a way to spend less then 15k. A much better way to do a "full" upgrade, would be to upgrade everything else that isn't engine related first (brakes, suspension, chassis strengthening, seats, paint, bodykit?, etc) before you touch the engine. As soon as the engine comes out, you'll want to upgrade everything "while you're there". At this point, just add 3-5 years onto whatever time budget you gave yourself unless you're one of those crazy singular focus ultra driven workhorses that apparently has no other hobbies. Man I'm jealous of those people. There's an Australian guy on youtube right who documented pretty much every aspect of his Z restoration. You might want to give his damn near 90 videos a watch and see if that's what you want to do. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCk_vb_SJctymCkwnF6sAwDg
  3. Dutchman Axles used to be a local company, then moved to Idaho. They're much smaller then Mosier, but big enough to not screw it up when you explain what you want.
  4. of course you're selling these...I just got them from them. Oh well. Good luck with sale!
  5. There are 400hp+ M42s, but it's probably more work then is worth it. And good point about the K series. I've seen people adapt them to BMW ZF 5 speeds out of the E36/46. It still all comes back around to if any of these are going to be anywhere near as expensive as a similar SR setup though.
  6. Do you just not want to go with the obvious choice of the SR20, or are you asking if there's a better, cheaper, turbo 4 out there? The only other option I could even think of that "could" be done on the cheap-esk side of things would be a Mitsubishi 4G63, or possibly a Volvo B234 or a BMW M42. All the engines have issues and different sets of costs associated with them, and I don't know if you could get them up to the 400 mark cheaper then the SR.
  7. What mirror are you going to be using to mount into the housing?
  8. https://skillard.com/products/datsun-280z-license-plate-light That do it for ya?
  9. Do you have a picture of said tube? What engine is this? What car is this?
  10. He put one in the FAQ section, which you can't reply to. The other two...no idea. They don't open for me either. His answer is simple though, and doesn't need a post. "My gas tank is full of shit, should I clean it?"
  11. Prices of S130's will never be anywhere near the price of S30's. It's an 80's ugly car without having the charm of being an 80's box. I'm sure, as a car, they are better in basically every way then the S30. But people are always going to take the better looking one. This is true for everything.
  12. You and about 25-30 grand and whole lot of time can have this.
  13. Looks pretty similar to the Le Mans Blue that they put on E39 BMW's. It's gonna be hard to really tell because the lighting on all of those pictures is different, and changes the color.
  14. Yeah, do it. What if it's great? Then make mounting brackets for everything and document how to do all the hard parts. We're gonna run out of SR20's at some point, having more stout turbo 4's is a good thing.
  15. 280zx has a completely different body. Why would it?
  16. People have completely cut out the entire front section of the car. If you're cutting a structural member, just remember to reinforce it somewhere else. Having a weak frame with stress concentration points in it isn't a good idea, but you can overcome these.
  17. Z31 300zx front hubs can be used, but in the rear you'll still need some sort of custom option. Some people re-drill the rear stub axle to accept 5 studs. Other than that, you're looking at a billet stub axle or some sort of new rear upright to accept a completely different kind of axle (like the Techno Toy Tuning Shortnose R200/R230 rear end swap) Silvermine motorsports can re-drill your stock stub axles if you send them to them if you can't find someone to do it locally.
  18. If you're considering parting it out, I'd be interested in the radiator, front windshield, and those caster arms.
  19. To not upgrade the master cylinder, means you're pushing the same amount of fluid, which means you're not pushing a larger caliper cylinder, which means you're not running a larger caliper. The only way an "upgrade" could do this, would be changing out your brake pads, and possibly rotors with holes drilled in them. Doesn't sound like much of an upgrade.
  20. What is the lug offset? 5x100? 5x114.3? 5x120?
  21. How much are you selling the BRE and 432 spoilers for?
  22. Are you trying to use it as a temporary means to have a parking brake, or do you just wanna do burnouts? If you're trying to use it as a parking brake, just know that if pressure is able to get through the linelock (which they have a tendency to do) eventually your parking brake will lose pressure and basically turn off. If it's just for burnouts, I'd get the cheaper one, because you're gonna need the extra money for more tires.
  23. If you're worried about returning to stock, don't get fender flares.
  24. I like the custom knuckle. 2 questions 1) Is that an aftermarket wheelhub? 2) Where does the front of the diff line up? in line vertically with your front diff mount, or slightly behind it?
  25. Longnose R200 is 4.25" spacing, Shortnose is 4.75" spacing. If you do get the finned cover you'll have to get a different transverse bar to connect the drop mounts for the rear suspension. The fins clash with that the stock piece and you have to raise it up. Arizona Z car does it like this. To get both the mustache bar and everything else it's about 550 bucks. Not super cheap, but it'll work, and it'll look fantastic!
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