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Building a 377, head / intake?


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I'm building a 377 I'm getting the 400 block this weekend and I think I am going to get PME Racing's 377 kit.

 

I've been working (playing) on (with) Datsuns for 20 years but haven't done anything with V-8's. So while I think this makes sense I know I could be so far off... bonk.gif

 

From reading here and else where it sounds like a good idea to use vortec heads and the victor jr intake (if they have one for the vortec), but what about the super victor? Would that screw up the low end too much, or since the motor will rev so well will it be a none issue. I am also planning to use a 17 lbs flywheel so it should rev pretty quick... right? or am I being stupid somewhere in here? Thanks!!

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I don't believe that the Super Victor is available for the Vortec heads (???). I am using the RPM performer w/ mine (350) and it seems to work quite well. Just keep in mind the limitations of the standard valve springs if you are going to get a 'big' cam. If you are buying them new, sink a little more and get the upgraded valve train.

Tim

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Guest Anonymous

My understanding of 377 inch chevy's is that they are a high winding motor. As such I'd reconsider Vortec heads for that particular application. The RPM's you'll be turning will not complement the Vortec's capabilities IMHO. If I were going to the trouble of building a 377 I'd look for aftermarket aluminum heads with more flow in the 4 - 7k RPM's that you'll be using. Just an opinion.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest chevsun

I am also building a 377 and will be assembling it soon. I purchased Edelbrock RPM heads #6089 when I was running a 350 and they were fine for that and I am also stuck with them for now as my 377 build Is running in the $7000 range including the heads. From what I have learned on other sites and I am NOT AN EXPERT is that the 170cc RPM's will probably run out of breath on me and if I had to do it again I would go for the AFR's or fully worked Dart Aluminum heads. If I am not happy with my 377's performance, this is the way I'll go and put the RPM's on the girlfriend's chevy II. There are people with a lot of experience that can help you more so take the time to research like I diden't and buy your parts once. I have enough cars so if I mess up I can usually swap things around and get the results I want. Good Luck Steve

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that 377 will work well with these heads,a little pocket porting and a cam in the correct rpm range for that engine(the crane solid lifter cams like the #110921 work well)(Id get the 215cc size)

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

this seems to be a good deal! and will produce much better hp than standard iron vette heads or standard passanger car heads but check with dart to be sure YOUR manifolds intake ports fit! these heads before ordering(248-362-1188, )

Dart Iron Eagle Heads

Assembled using Manley valves, .550 lift valve springs, hardned locks, steel retainers,

screw-in studs and guide plates.

Refined intake and exhaust ports

High efficient 64cc or 72cc combustion chambers

Bronze valve guides

Angle or Straight plug location

200cc,or 215cc, or 230cc intake runners

2.05 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves

Completely Assembled . . . . . . $739.99

800-262-5033

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Guest chevsun

Grumpy do you think the out of the box 64cc RPM heads will be too small for my 377. It has an all forged and balanced bottom end with flat tops. Computes roughly to 10.81 compression. The car weighs #2600 lbs, has a BW T56 trans and 3:90 rear. The cam I am going to run is the Comp cams #12-648-4 it is a dual grind solid cam with .52 int/w 282 duration @.015, edelbrock 750 and Vic Jr.,block hugger headers and 2 1/4 dual exhaust/w Hooker aerochambers.Also does anyone have a guess at 1/4 mile times on bfg drag radials

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quote:

Originally posted by CALIFORNIAZ:


 

CaliforniaZ; FWIW (anal retentive/engine building 101 comment here) that kit list their basic kit & then offers upgrades if wanted. The basic kit includes a cast crank/cast pistons; IMO, cast crank & cast pistons is a sure-fire way to destroy your engine in a high revving 377...be sure & make the upgrades to the better pistons & crank if/when choosing their kit.

 

As for the 64cc or 76cc combustion chambers...it all depends on the intent of the engine; Remember-its a complete package. What comp.ratio are you running/how extreme of a camshaft or you using & at what RPM range would you like your "High-Revving" 377 to come in to its peak power range? Flat Top pistons or small dish pistons will determine which of the 64cc or 76cc comb.chamber are needed coupled w/your choice of cam.

 

Remember; the pistons/combustion chamber cc's of the cylinder heads along w/the displacement of the engine determine "Static Comp.Ratio" while your camshaft works for/against your engine combination & directly effects "Dynamic Comp.Ratio's". So again, which to choose from can be determined by what the intent of the engine is or will be once its built.

 

As for the previous post asking about the 170cc heads being okay for this engine(?), if your engine is going to be driven on the street the 170cc heads will be perfect. They'll lose steam in the upper rev's (6000rpm's & on) but for the street they'll offer good idle...depending on your choice of cam icon_razz.gif

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still a non-377 Inliner)

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Guest chevsun

Thanks for the input guys. On another note I picked up my "finished" block today and was happy with the machine work but the block was filthy. I pulled one of the lifter gally plugs and could scoop out grit and sludge. This was supposed to be a ready to assemble block. I guess it pays to check.I really need to know how I can get this block clean with the cam bearings installed. Can I spray the holes with brake clean and purg with compressed air. I would just as soon kiss the shop goodbuy (Jerks) and deal with this myself and chock it up to lessons learned any Ideas?

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Guest JAMIE T

That is a good lesson to learn, just ask Pete. I always get my machine work done at a reputable shop, but prefer to ready the block for assembly myself(including installing the cam bearings and freeze plugs, etc...) Cam bearing tools aren't that expensive, but I just borrow them from a friend. I rebuilt a 4.3 V6 for a buddy and he paid for the machine shop to install the cam bearings. The shop installed the wrong bearing in the rear most bearing location. I took the block back to the shop, they swore to me that they checked it with a test cam. So with my tactful way I simply told him to install the cam himself(a Comp Cams .500" lift hyd.roller). He could not get it to go in either(geewiz) twak.gif Well, they pulled the plug behind the bearing and replaced it with the correct one for free, but I still checked before I took the block home. Also for a small extra charge most shops can get the block tumbled and cleaned with metal shot(block actually gets shot peened). It will come out looking like a brand new block and be perfectly clean. I used to do this process at a NAPA machine shop I worked at for a while. Sorry about your bad experience. try the Brake cleaner and some block brushes, also clean the whole thing before assembly with some detergent and blow off with some compressed air.

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I had rust in the back of the galleys in my block, that flaked and loosened up and go washed down to the bearings. That's what I get for building the motor and letting it set for years before I prelubed it. A bit of water or caustic hot tank solution must have been sitting back in those galleys and caused the rust. If I had just prelubed it on the stand after assembling it, it wouldn't have rusted. Lesson learned.

 

I pulled the freeze plugs and oil plugs myself and took the block to get the cam bearings pulled and had it hot tanked. They put new bearings in and the oil plug down below the rear main cap (since they saw I left that one in, they probably figured they better replace it instead of me forgetting!).

 

I did this for just the reason you mentioned - I was afraid crap would be trapped in the oil passage behind the cam bearings.

 

For me it was a great reason to do a few upgrades at the same time. And this time I used a rod bolt stretch gage to do the rod bolts - very enlightening! Torque is not a good way to do those, as I had an 8 lbft variance to get the recommended rod bolt stretch on all the bolts. Maybe that's splitting hairs, but I want to rev this motor a bit over 6000rpm, and I wanted the insurance that they wouldn't loosen and cause a spun bearing.

 

Chevsun, I'd take it back and have them remove the cam bearings and plugs, hot tank it, and put the cam bearings in. The rest of the plugs are easy to put in. I might but a cam bearing installer tool the next time. This way you can inspect their cleaning (and do your own after-cleaning anyway).

 

They should know better than to do business that way.

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Kevin,

 

I was actually reffering to the second kit on the page. If you scroll down on the link I posted you will see the "All Forged" kit. At least give me some credit for doing my homework before posting.

 

icon_smile.gificon_smile.gificon_smile.gif

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this might help

the 377cid is made buy useing the 350 crank and rods with these pistons,

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page29.htm#SECT1

and these main bearings,Clevite 77 "P" Series Rod and Main Bearings.

https://asp1.secure-shopping.com/jrmotor....1502008

 

or kits

http://www.racepartsstore.com/377chevy1.html

http://www.speedomotive.com/Destroked%20377.htm

http://www.speedomotive.com/Chevy%20386%20Stoker%20Kit.htm

http://www.pmeracing.com/triton/engcomp/enginekits/sbc-33770.htm

http://www.dansperformance.com/page/engine_kits3.htm

 

BTW make sure you change to ARP high quality rod bolts and ballance everything!

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