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Need everybodys help... give me your ideas please.


Guest ON3GO

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Hey guys.

well after talking to many supra owners and shops... i desided im not going with the 7M-GTE... many of these ppl told me that i would have to build it up to reach my HP levels (which is what i wanted to do) but it wouldnt be very reliable if done so.... and i need a car i can drive everyday.

so now im lost.

I want a turbo motor, want reliable 450+RWHP, and a Stick, and in turn somewhat good on gas.

what should i do? any ideas as to what motor? and if you guys have the answer as to what motor i should use, then tell me what setup will bring me to my goals smile.gif .

thanks guys again

 

mike sabatino

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oh yeah.. im also doing all the work myself, and im on a budget.. (porb sounded to good to be true smile.gif ).

i can spend total on the whole car prob around 9K.

and i do want a all around car, handling etc etc etc smile.gif

 

mike

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ya but parts are so much money for the motor... upgraded turbos are in the 6K range, i mean thats the same for really any motor like that.. but its a idea.

im trying to find ways to not cut courners but to do it cheaper and just as much power and relabily.

 

mike

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I've always loved the 2JZ-GTE conversion. It has demonstrated huge power potential, and comes with an excellent 6 speed behind it. I don't know how easy the swap is, and the exhaust routing could be tricky, but no more so than the GN swap (both route on the right side).

 

Just my fantasy swap...also the RB26DETT is a good one, but in the states it's very expensive.

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you can get that motor and trans for about 4k if youre real lucky, and i believe 6k is about going price for that setup. i would sell the harness, ecu, and the twin turbo setup manifolds, intercooler all at once to fund a T78 single turbo setup and SDS to make it even simpler. 400hp@ a low boost setting is very doable in that configuration and the crossflow head makes ic plumbing pretty simple as well. i would actually run this motor before i would ever do an rb swap because of domestic parts availability. that single turbo setup, motor trans and efi would put me almost 9k in the whole before we start talking about mounts, intercooler, and a million other things not including the custom fab work that has to be done exhaust wise. big power is always gonna be big money. and 450hp is big power. gas mileage should be good off boost, and be pretty reliable once properly setup.

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well i know of many BPU supras (stock twins) in the 420+rwhp league.

i have a N.O.S. wet shot system that i could put on the 2JZ if i ever wanted even more.

I know with just a Full exhaust, downpipe, FMIC, BCC, and a boost controller these cars are putting over 400hp to the wheels.

 

maybe a nice small SP61 or 63 would be nice :D on stock fuel.

 

anybody have links to some sites that sell USDM 2JZ's?

 

also i have a question about the AEM Race EMS.

It says it controlls boost, Nitrous, and etc.. so would i need a boost controller? cuz i bought a lap top so i can buy the AEM Race EMS. but i was wondering if i still needed a boost controller and fuel controller.

 

thanks

 

mike

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what is so bad about the 7mgte? Everyone who hasn't worked with them claims they are not good engines - I get the impression they are the bastard child toyota engine. Same with nissans' KA24. We all know how much power the 2jz will make, but don't rule out the 7m. This is an awesome engine and is extremely stout. Sure, it doesn't have the pistons of the 2jz, but some would argue that the connecting rods in a 7m are stronger than those in a 2jz. Toyota didn't skimp when they designed this engine. I've seen dyno vids online of a 7m with a big single and forged pistons (note: didn't replace connecting rods) making well over 700 hp. It shares the same 5 speed found in sc300's and that one year MKIV TT's had a 5 speed. If you wanted a getrag 6 speed, its a MKIV bellhousing and tranny swap away. Ohh, and people always get hung up on the head gasket blowing - Get Some ARP studs and a new head gasket - not hard people. It also has a longer stroke (albeit smaller bore) - 92mm stroke I believe - so its a torquey I6. Why is it you ruled out the 7M?

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Guest Anonymous

Hi all,

 

ON3GO, why not use the L28 turbo motor? I picked up a complete motor and trans in great shape for $550.00. I am doing a cheap rebuild,ie. bearings,rings hone the bores (no ridge)for about $250.00,valve job $250.00 clutch for the T5 $350.00. Get a t3/t4 hybrid or even do like me T4 60-1 baby!, some big injectors and a fuel system to feed it,and maybe SDS or TECII/III for fuel control.

Most of the guys on the list doing this combo are seeing 350 to 450 hp.

All this is easily doable for less than the 9K you stated as your budget

 

Or you could always use the RB26!!!!

 

Cheers,Mike

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The L28T seems like a good idea, but how relable are they with that much power?

I know the 2JZ would be fine at that level and higher.

rememeber i dont have 9K for just the motor, its for everything. im doing all the work so im saving there.

 

Im sure that the Twin turbo MKIV didnt have a 5-speed, only 6-speeds and 4-speed autos.

 

all the N/A's had 5-speeds if stick.

 

what parts would i need for the L28T to be past and in the 450rwhp range?

are parts cheaper then say the VG30DETT and 2JZ?

thanks

 

mike

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450 hp is more easily done out of a 2jz or a gn motor i think. the buy in is much higher though and the fabrication is a lot tougher. gn motors hit redline way too quick and low for a stick to be effective, but it can be done, thats why im not looking into a gn swap, i like shifting for myself.

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Guest Zachb55

well i would like to do an RB swap, it seems like fab wise it may be easier then the JZ but then you look at the ability to buy aftermarket parts and the 2JZ blows the RB away there... if i can find one for cheepish i might go for it, i wana keep the whole swap under like 8-10 grand also. well i cant wait to get that far...

 

-Zach

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well you see my 240Z is nothing right now.. just a bucket of crap lol.

i mite be selling it for a more complete 240Z this week.

so u see ill have about 9K for everything... thats including buying the car too.

i mean ill find ways not to cut courners but to do it cheaper.

i can get my friends rear 240sx brakes, and ill get those toyota 4x4 front brakes.

interior im gonna spend some money, all autometer and blitz gauges, corbeau seats, new carpet and etc.

im really thinking about the L28T motor.

i just dont no where to start about finding good parts for the build up.

im still looking for a R200 rear end for it so i can get that power to the ground, and im still lost on suspension ideas.

 

mike

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If you want power AND reliability build an NA car, absofreakinlutely. I made 411 RWHP out of my LT1 with a 234/246 cam, and of course ported heads yada yada. I made that power about 600RPM short of where I should have peaked, due to an ignition miss. That was with shorty headers, even with shorties it was supposed to hit 425/430 RWHP, stock bottom end.

 

Its not 450, but with a bigger cam and such a light car it should not be a problem, I had stock rear gears with that car as well. If you want dead on reliable there is no question in my mind that NA is the way to go.

 

As a road racer, even in a 3400 pound car (approximitely), I can tell you that the car will be ******* undriveable, especially if you end up weighing in at 2300 pounds. It takes a serious driver to take corners in that thing, I could be WOT for about 3 seconds in that car at Thunderhill. When being a little too fiesty, I went sideways into the dirt at about 120 MPH. If you truly want to race the car, be reasonable, and make it a 13/14 second car, and build up HP later on. Once you hit the track, you will find you wont have to slow down as much as heavier cars in the corners, and you will run rings around many of the other cars. Get some rubber and brakes on there, springs/shocks, and voila.

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Personally I would do a Grand National/T-Type engine or a Syclone/Typhoon engine (which I've yet to see done) if I were you. They are a GREAT engine! In case you arent familiar; turbo charged 3.8L V6, pretty light and they have a massive aftermarket. Not that you'd need to do much to reach your goals. If I hadn't had a built 350 already from my Camaro (upgraded to a 496 bb) I would have dont the GN engine. You could match that to a T56 Vette/Camaro 6 speed manual tranny (i would assume) and that would be a ripping little Z! Just my opinion :D

 

RJ

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those GM (Buick) turbo motors suck with a Stick behind it. if i wanted a auto car then ill be all over those motors but i love going threw the gears.

 

mike

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Originally posted by heinekenns:

what is so bad about the 7mgte?

 

Everyone who hasn't worked with them claims they are not good engines - I get the impression they are the bastard child toyota engine. Same with nissans' KA24. We all know how much power the 2jz will make, but don't rule out the 7m. This is an awesome engine and is extremely stout. Sure, it doesn't have the pistons of the 2jz, but some would argue that the connecting rods in a 7m are stronger than those in a 2jz. Toyota didn't skimp when they designed this engine. I've seen dyno vids online of a 7m with a big single and forged pistons (note: didn't replace connecting rods) making well over 700 hp. It shares the same 5 speed found in sc300's and that one year MKIV TT's had a 5 speed. If you wanted a getrag 6 speed, its a MKIV bellhousing and tranny swap away.

 

JZ engines and 7m do not share a common Bellhousing Pattern. If they did, I would be laughing! (Im chasing a JZ R154/W58)

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Originally posted by kalium99:

JZ engines and 7m do not share a common Bellhousing Pattern. If they did, I would be laughing! (Im chasing a JZ R154/W58)

Didn't the turbo JZ and 7M share the same 5-speed gearbox, only with different bellhousings? I'm not sure about it, but I swear I've heard stories of sourcing/interchanging gearboxes...

 

As for this project, the whole mystique thing of the RB series seems to have a lot of people drooling. They're not that great! :D Here in australia, the RB engines are thick on the ground - yet they don't command much respect. You're far better off looking at the JZ series of engines, particularly the jap spec 1JZ (2.5 litre simul-twin-turbo) and using the 5-speed manual it comes with from the mkiii supra. That'll get you >220rwkw - measured on aussie dynos, so add 30-40kw to compare to US measured cars smile.gif

 

Many people are of the opinion that the mighty RB26 is inferior to the 1JZ, given both engines in a mild state of tune. The RB26 absolutely owns for aftermarket support, but if you're not going to chase 1000hp with big dollars, the humble 1JZ can support ~500rwhp on stock internals and is probably a better option for low-to-medium tune levels.

 

What i'd do, if i was in the states, is buy a brand new shortblock from toyota ($2k from connections through supraforums.com), import or buy a local damaged engine/halfcut for cheap basically for the head and ancillaries, and reco the top end for what will practically be a new engine.

 

lets face it, 200rwkw in a zed is going to have you running 12's without much drama - that's approaching the stock internals limit of the more expensive RB series, but only warming up the JZ 2thumbs.gif

 

It's kinda funny how over here the small block chev is fairly respected, if a little old, RB's aren't worth a second look unless you've got extreme dollars, JZ's are fairly cool and not much else rates a mention...

...Yet in the states, you can't go to a wrecker without tripping over SBC's, the JZ's are respected, but nothing special, and the RB's are mysterious and all-conquering.. Go figure smile.gif

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