Looking to swap an n/a 2jz into an s30 - looking for guidance

[chatapokai]

Hello,

Been looking for years and I finally came into possession of a motor-less 260z that i want to swap a non-turbo 2jz into. I've swapped an engine before but it was the same type of motor (blown 3s-gte swapped for one I built-up in my 91 mr2). So I'm trying to compile a to-do/to-find list for what I need for the swap, so far this is what I have and want to use:

 

Have:

-A buddy sold me a rear-sump sc300 2jzge and I was able to get a AR5 transmission for cheap as well

 

Planned:

-ApexEngineered front crossmember and JZ mounts

-1jz bellhousing (for the ar5)

-SN95 Mustang gas tank + fuel pump

-JDM 2jz ecu for now (haltech or megasquirt later)

-Better wiring harness later in life

-JZ clutch fan

-3 core radiator

 

Unknown:

-Will the 260z master cylinder need to be used? Or would I need another manufacture?

-Do I need to run new fuel lines from the tank?

 

I know I'm missing some things and was hoping that someone with more experience can shed some light as to what else I need. 

[seattlejester]

Clutch master should work, I ran the stock one from the 240z on my R154. 

 

Depending on your fueling needs potentially. The lines are on the small side for future power.

 

Core isn't as important as FPI from what I recall.  2 core worked fine for me.

 

You will have to figure out the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, clutch fork reversal setup or standard setup etc. Don't go for super heavy pressure plates like ACT they can lead to crank walk.

 

Trans mount will require quite a bit of work you will have to remove the cross member brace to make room unless you mount everything pretty forward. Depending on the trans you will have to look at shifter extension possibly.

 

The AR5 is supposed to be better, but I really didn't like the R154 in shift feel. Difficulty getting into 1st and reverse.

 

The toyota harnesses seem to corrode pretty easily and the engine wires get real brittle with exposure to oil. Plan on replacing sooner than later.

 

Replace the seals on the motor while it is out. Go OEM it will cost a lot, but should give you piece of mind. There is a whole thing on the front main seal and the oil pump. Take time to research that now while you have access.

 

Plan on replacing things like the idler pulley and tensioner setup.

[chatapokai]

Thanks for the response and sorry for not responding sooner! (didn't get a notification).

 

On 2/22/2020 at 12:44 AM, seattlejester said:

Depending on your fueling needs potentially. The lines are on the small side for future power.

 

Core isn't as important as FPI from what I recall.  2 core worked fine for me.

So what did you use for a tank? I just want to reflect the OEM FPI cause I want to build it as a 250ish hp cruiser -- but I'm guessing I'll need an aftermarket pump if I run the mustang tank. I will definitely be using braided lines w/ AN fittings for safety and reliability. I'm put off by using a fuel cell cause I want usable trunk space (plus heat from the sun). 

 

On 2/22/2020 at 12:44 AM, seattlejester said:

You will have to figure out the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, clutch fork reversal setup or standard setup etc. Don't go for super heavy pressure plates like ACT they can lead to crank walk.

I'll be trying to keep it as stock as possible, which might require a lightweight flywheel -- but I have no problem using OEM Toyota setup then modifying it later if I feel it too heavy. But stock shouldn't present a problem right?

 

On 2/22/2020 at 12:44 AM, seattlejester said:

The toyota harnesses seem to corrode pretty easily and the engine wires get real brittle with exposure to oil. Plan on replacing sooner than later.

Made a couple calls and I think it'll worth the 1k for a custom harness. Might as well build it right the first time.

 

On 2/22/2020 at 12:44 AM, seattlejester said:

Replace the seals on the motor while it is out. Go OEM it will cost a lot, but should give you piece of mind. There is a whole thing on the front main seal and the oil pump. Take time to research that now while you have access.

 

Plan on replacing things like the idler pulley and tensioner setup.

I'm rebuilding the whole engine as it's on a stand right now. Water pump, seals, head gasket, timing belt, etc.

 

 

Thank you for your response!!

[seattlejester]

I had a fuel cell for a while, mine was mounted under the car after I made a flat floor, but I ended up going with a plastic 2000+ camaro fuel tank with the in tank pump chasing a baffling problem. I had 6AN fuel lines ~3/8 inch and that is supposed to flow enough for more than my power goals really more than enough for most sane people I think.

 

Stock should be ok around stock power levels. I had the driftmotion kit 1.5 kit I think which uses a slightly heavier pressure plate with the R154 and that held power fine. I went with southbend later for my next trans and didn't detect any crank walk. 

 

For the engine depending on the management wiring isn't too hard to do, but if you can map out everything and future proof it that may be worth it for you to have a professional wire it. That is your call to make there. I was pretty indecisive and cheap so doing my own wasn't much of an issue especially after I saw the condition of the stock harness.

 

Check the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley while you are in there. Really consider things like the oil pump/fms upgrades or at least proper installation, and maybe even the crank pulley. https://www.supraforums.com/threads/2jz-front-main-seal-findings.1048818/ < a post I put together on the topic. 

 

Not sure how adjustable the Apex cross member is, but going clutched fan kind of locks you in a certain location, might consider e-fans to give you some leeway with trans placement etc. 2 fans on a shroud with a standalone controller and I never overheated

[chatapokai]

All this is seriously helpful. Then I'll just how to figure out the fuel pump relay wiring. Not that it's difficult, but I've never done it before. Then I might just look for a suitable tank and use the corresponding stock fuel pump as well as replace the s30 fuel lines with braided ones. So I'm not as worried about fueling anymore.

 

Wiring-wise, I think it'll be worth going professional loom. I plan on using the stock ecu for the first couple years and once the s30 runs and drives reliably, I'd love to tinker with ITBs and a better ECU (but that's way future). I've been taking the 2j apart and cleaning/maintaining it. I just bought the waterpump and for sure will be going the pully/tensioner etc. I don't see why I wouldn't do the crank pulley since it's on a stand, so I'll add that to the to/do list (not sure if I'm doing hg, but if I do I might do ARP bolts and MLS hg even though it's not boosted).  I have no upgrades planned, though I'll be googling egr block off plates, I'll need to research what else can be deleted off a 2j for simplicity. 

 

I think you're right and e-fans will be the way to go. If for some reason I cannot get the temp sensor and relay to connect, I could just have them always on.

 

All I have right now is an empty shell and a but load of parts, so I'll have a lot of wiring to figure out for the dash lol

 

Thanks bud

[seattlejester]

This is fun, I have to live vicariously through others for at least a few years.

 

A simple relay is pretty easy to install, one thing to check for is if the ECU sends a power or ground trigger signal when wiring.

 

If you plan on wiring yourself, make sure to get a good set of tools. If not, interview the person who will be doing your wiring. Ask what kind of tools they use and ask for a test piece. I rewired an "expert"s work before, took me twice as long to wire the kit, their crimps didn't hold for anything, and the color coded harness was cut up and the wires mixed up. 5 hour job took 15 hours, over 10 was spent undoing their "pro" install. 

 

Yes, for fuel I would say go on the bigger side within reason, I had to redo mine and they are not fun to get to, at least if you want to route them neatly. 

 

For non-boost you probably won't need an MLS type gasket, granted I like the fact MLS usually don't disintegrate over time like the cheap generic head gaskets tend to do. The toyota 2jzgte ones are MLS or solid steel from the factory if I recall.

 

I definitely would do the crank pulley, remove it and do the front main seal and the rear main seal, and consider changing pulleys. These motors are old and the rubber will disintegrate over time. If you plan on doing megasquirt, you may want to consider changing to a replacement 1JZ pulley. Those have 4 holes, two of which are unthreaded, but can be tapped easily. That will make mounting a trigger wheel for megasquirt way easy down the road. Alternatively you can just get something like an ATI that has a trigger wheel built in.

 

Not running boost actually saves quite a few headaches as well, you won't have to worry about things like the breathers as much, although drilling those out to something bigger and attaching it to a vacuum source would be nice. That could be difficult with ITB's though.