Let's talk brake system design

[280Z-LS3]

That's really a hard question to answer in absolute terms.  From what I have learned 70/30 is a ball park with any car.  There are variables such as tires, brake pads, track conditions, etc. that will necessitate altering brake bias.  Use a brake calculator to size master cylinders to system then use a remote adjuster to dial in for certain conditions.  This is assuming you are going with dual master cylinders.  Below is link to Tilton's remote adjuster.

 

https://tiltonracing.com/product/standard-remote-brake-bias-adjuster/

 

 

[TUME]

It depends your car F/R weight ratio, center of gravity, wheel base etc.

I came up near 60/40 because SR engine.

Use calculator to clarify, couple messages backwards. Jake Lathams calc was broken but there was substitute.

Edited July 1, 2020 by TUME

[gnosez]

I could find no mention of a brake booster in your set-up and was wondering if you are designing one in or will you go with a pedal assembly, bias bar and dual MCs?  Without the booster I needed to relearn how to brake using my whole leg (slightly off the floor) and not rotating from my ankle to apply pressure on the pedal. After 4 hours on the track I woke up with a leg cramp and until I remembered the new set-up was at a lose for why my leg hurt so much.

[280Z-LS3]

I will be using Tilton 72-607 pedal assembly, dual master cylinders (size to be determined) and 72-509 bias adjuster.  I chose the Tilton pedals because modifying the stock pedal assembly with balance bar for dual master cylinders requires some work which I'd rather put into installing an aftermarket pedal system.  Also, since I will running manual brakes Tilton has the option of 6.2:1 pedal ratio giving added leverage over the modified OEM pedal which gives just under 5:1.   Putting off purchasing the calipers and rotors for now because plenty on the "build plate" right now.  After I get the engine/trans, suspension and roll cage installed will get brakes and wheels.