Thoughts about installing carbs on an na2j?

[seattlejester]

Oh wow, that is super cool. Might have to start collecting parts for a future build!

 

Given that the chassis is old I would not want to have someone remote a setup at a premium price like that unless I knew it was going to be 100% fit and they had a warranty and reputation to back it up. It could be a perfect fit on their car, but could be off on yours, and if they are making the holes extra large or slotted to compensate then the precision fit isn't really a selling point.

 

The apex mount looks nice and with an adapter plate should be able to adjust, and with spacers also in 3 dimensions. Price compared to 400-500 is darn good, just make sure to talk to them before hand, I know they had some issues in customer service a while back.

 

My thinking is a bit tainted since I have welder's and such, paying a ton for something like basic mounts just doesn't make sense, but at the same time I've been in your shoes. I just had a bad experience with prefab bolt on parts (granted I went cheap) so I tend to recommend the fab route, but it can and most likely will add quite a bit of time and will rarely come out cheaper unless you are efficient with your time and planning.

[lowrider]

On 2/2/2021 at 9:03 PM, chatapokai said:

@seattlejester So it looks like my best choices are between modifying the apexeng mount and getting ome custom made. 

 

I actually talked to an s30 fabricator on instagram. He says he could make me a perfect "lazer-measured" fit mount for it for around 4-500. While that's pricey, it might be worth the peace of mind. I guess we'll sre when it's time. I do, however, like that the apex mount supports the floor too.

 

Anyway, i got a manifold made from danst as well (pic attached). Was going to have a local guy make it, but I think a manifold from the source was worth it for the extra 100 it cost me. 

 

I will need to either tap each tube and thread a hosetail to each for vacuum so I can run a line to the brake booster, charcoal canister, and maybe a catch can.

Why not run an electric vacuum pump instead of tying all of the runners together?

I did a Mikuni bike carb swap on my 610 station wagon and ran this vacuum pump for the master cylinder and other vacuum driven accessories. I pulled mine from a Volvo in the local pull-a-part and paid next to nothing for it. I have it connected to switched power via a rely and inline fuse with an inline vacuum switch to activate the relay. Whenever the vacuum level drops below the switch threshold it will run for a few seconds then shut off. It's been working great for several years now!

[chatapokai]

@lowrider I didn't even consider an electric pump! this is a fantastic idea! thanks!!

 

As of now I'm just waiting for slightly warmer weather to jump back into installing the subframe. The 2j block and head have been sent to the machinists so I guess I'm back to waiting. 

 

Doesn't matter cause NPR rings are sold out everywhere, so I'm waiting for a bit anyway.

[seattlejester]

You might want to take a look at the bores. I was planning on doing rings and bearings, but my higher milage motor had stock cross hatching. 

 

Much less of a concern at stockish power levels as well. 

[chatapokai]

Update!! 

 

Obviously it's been a very odd year in the car world, especially for getting parts -- which is where I'm stuck. Since I've last posted I've gotten the block back from the machine shop and installed the cleaned up pistons, new OEM rings, King rod and main bearings (overkill but all anyone had in stock), the crank, oil pump, upper oil pan, oil pickup, aaaaand that's it. The bottom end is done outside of me cleaning the oil pan and reinstalling it. I ordered a new head gasket from Cometic in June and still have not heard back, so I cant even install my head or anything else...so I'm stuck there engine-wise. i have a new OEM gasket, but quite a bit had to be shaved off the block (.016), so I ordered a .027 cometic MLS HG to compensate for that and the amount shaved off the head as well. According to endless calculations and research, I should be at around stock compression.

 

I've been splitting my work between my sw20 mr2 (maintenance, new wilwood BBK, arms, etc.) and installing the apex parts. I had to contact them to swap some things out since I ordered 260z braces as didn't realize there was a split in the 260z modeling (early vs late, I have an early one) which takes 240z parts (and Apex was super cool about it and swapped out my braces). So I just need to finish that up and start measuring for the trans. 

 

I wish I had a bigger garage to learn to weld the holes in my floor...my plan for now is to install the motor and trans once I can get the rest of the 2j parts. Make sure it runs and drives/work out the kinks with the carb swap, and then basically take everything apart and properly do the body when I have the space. I would hate to half-ass the body work now, only to have to redo it later.

Edited September 8, 2021 by chatapokai

[chatapokai]

Well well well, it's been a hell of a couple years for me personally and a lot has changed since then (jobs, world on fire, etc). Regarding the Z, I bought a 73 240Z frame in decent shape and have been putting it together. Took the rear end off the 260z scrap I had and currently am trying to put it on the 240z (and of course I'm stuck on the spindle pin holding the strut assembly to the lower control arm. Already broke the zcar depot tool...)

 

Anyway back on the carbed 2j. I basically finished it and figured out how to get it running. So I cannot make it fully mechanical and will need a crank sensor + an ecu to make it go. The good news is that I can get the cheapest ecu, turn off fuel, and input the alternator points, aftermarket crank sensor for the 2j (i have the older one that doesnt have one), and the knock sensors for it to run.