cackalacky Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 Hey Y'all, I'm having a hard time sourcing pedals for an AT to MT swap in my 72 240Z. I understand that the pedals should fit in the box that I have, but I just can't seem to find some. Have any of you used an aftermarket setup (i.e. Wilwood) and if so how did it go? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 I used a Tilton pedal box in mine. Hard to recommend this approach unless you have the dash area of the car pretty much completely dismantled. You are going to have to weld in structure/brackets to support pretty much any aftermarket pedal setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackalacky Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 Good to know and thanks! I'm going to have to pull the interior for floors and wiring (squirrel nest in the glovebox), as well as pull the motor for rebuild/swap, so the car will be stripped down. Any info/advice you could give on your setup would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AydinZ71 Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 I also have the Tilton pedal assembly. I just finished by firewall area so I will share some pictures. This is definitely a custom install so if you are anxious about metal work, welding, cutting, etc. you might want to steer clear. The BIG plus is the dual brake master cylinders (one for front and one for rear) which will allow you to MECHANICALLY adjust the amount of travel going to each cylinder (the assembly comes with a see-saw proportioning lever). This is a repeatable means of changing and fixing your front/rear brake bias which will not "wander" like the hydraulic proportioning valve. Since the pedal assembly ditches the brake booster, it has a longer pedal lever as well. Not quite as easy as OEM, but easier to "push" than if you removed the booster on an OEM pedal assembly. Also, not including the additional master cylinder the Tilton assembly is 4lbs where as the OEM is 8. You would also need to mock-up a new column drop (the thing that grabs the end of the steering column) since the OEM unit came with this connection point. All said, don't recommend it unless you are building a track car or really care about brake performance. As a point of reference, I just sold my OEM pedal assembly for $180. The Tilton assembly is close to $400 when including 2 new master cylinders. You will need to modify the threads on your existing clutch master or get a new one with 5/16 SAE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AydinZ71 Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 A pic and a vid for reference IMG_6632.MP4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackalacky Posted September 2, 2021 Author Share Posted September 2, 2021 Thanks Aydin. Unfortunately the video didn't come through. I'll take your advice and continue to try and source OEM, but hold this in my back pocket if I'm unable. I have some time, so fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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