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Dyno Results are in on my Haltech 240


Guest jt240z

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Here are the Dyno results. The results were not that bad, but I still have some room for more power. My tuner (Matt "The Hitman") said that if I had gone with a 3" exhaust instead of the 2.5" I've got, he could have gotten another 50 ponies. Here are the links:

 

http://home.mindspring.com/~odyssey/_uimages/DSCN2496.JPG

 

http://home.mindspring.com/~odyssey/_uimages/DSCN2501.JPG

 

Next time I'll add that 3" exhaust and maybe that T04E. ;)

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jt

 

first of all those are some very nice # nothing to complain about for sure but i do have one question. if i saw it right was your peak power right about 4500rpm? or did you just let go of gas at that rpm? it just seems kinda weiard because when we took my friends 280zt (with t4) his peak power was right about 6k. i appologize if this is dumb question.

 

Ivan

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Yeh, That's the exhaust limiting my power. I need to remove my piece of crap muffler and go up to 3" pipes. Matt my tuner told me that the power curve would have kept going if it wasn't for the exhaust limitation.

 

Leaves me room for improvements. :D

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WOW, those are some nice numbers. That thing looks like it's going to tear up some tires (torque monster). I was wondering, besides the Haltech, what is your setup. I would love to hear what you have to make that kind of power. It is amazing that you can get an extra 50hp out of a 3" exhaust. Good job. 2thumbs.gif

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What cam are you running? If you have the stock cam your peak power dropping off after 5000RPM is probably on par. Without a doubt, 3 inch exhaust would have made more power at a higher RPM.

 

By the way.... you obviously have some traction problems with 350ft/lbs on tap. 2thumbs.gif

 

Just my .02C

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First, good number on your setup. However, the exhuast is not your problem at this point. Going to a 3" exhuast will not add you another 50hp on your setup. Concentrate on getting a more efficient turbo and with your same exhaust I can garauntee you will see the 50hp he is talking about. Now, don't do as I and others have done when getting an upgraded turbo. What is that you ask? Going to a whimpy turbo upgrade and then finding is was not big enough. Set your hp goals and choose the correct turbo the 1st go round. You have the Haltech so tuning is not the issue. Do not use smaller than a 60-1 and you can expect some HUGE increases in power. The 60-1 provides excellent spool and will allow you to easily make 350-375@wheels on pump gas. Good luck and good job.

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I'm with James... the abrupt torque falloff is consistent with an undersized turbo falling off it's efficiency map. The 3" exhaust will help a little, but you'll most likely still see this same characteristic until you go to a larger more efficient turbo.

 

Now, don't do as I and others have done when getting an upgraded turbo. What is that you ask? Going to a whimpy turbo upgrade and then finding is was not big enough.

 

LOL. Of course the Catch-22 with this logic is that no matter what goal you set, once you get there it won't be enough. :D

 

The upside is that upgrading in smaller steps lets you get used to the increased power more gradually, and gives you a better chance of surviving...

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TimZ and 240Z Turbo,

Hmmm, I've never experienced what it feels like to have turbo drop out of it's efficiency range. I stand corrected.. bonk.gif Personally I've always thought my problem of having power drop off was camshaft related. Wouldn't a stock cam also contribute somewhat to this problem?

 

Strangley my current 3.0L L28 and a TO4E 50 trim/T3 Stage3-.63 A/R turbo setup peaks power at a lower RPM than a stock 83 280ZXT I used to have. Can a 60-1 "B" wheel be put in my "E" compressor housing? It's a Jim Wolf Sport 400. I've always thought the TO4E 60 trim should be my next step up. I regret not starting big from the beginning..

 

Regards,

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Originally posted by jgkurz:

TimZ and 240Z Turbo,

Personally I've always thought my problem of having power drop off was camshaft related. Wouldn't a stock cam also contribute somewhat to this problem?

Yes, many things could be contributing. However, his torque starts falling off at 4100rpm, which seems a bit low even for the stock cam. My main point was that the 2.5" exhaust probably wasn't the biggest factor.
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So far I've been pleased with my Haltech's operation. If you haven't had one, you can't believe the difference a programmable ECU can make. Right now I still believe that the Haltech is the best bang for the buck. This might be because I had the best tuner in around working on my engine. What a rush when you know that every piece of the engine and every part of the plumbing was all hand done by yourself. I assembled the engine and head, fabricated the plumbing and wired the fuel injection system all by my self with the help of people on groups like this. rockon.gif

 

I am running the stock cam and an unknown turbo combination. I know that the turbo is a T3/T04b combo., but I don't have any figures on what compressor trim or wheel it has. The exhaust is a stock T3 from a 300ZX. Any suggestions on what would be the best wheel and trim combination?

 

Would a cam really help much>

 

I still plan on getting the 3" exhaust but right now I'm running the Scotties 2.5" down pipe. Should I just go up in size after the down pipe or should I go 3" down pipe right from the start?

 

What muffler should I be running?

 

Sorry for all the questions, but once bitten by the turbo bug, you can't go back. 2thumbs.gif

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I am running the stock cam and an unknown turbo combination. I know that the turbo is a T3/T04b combo., The exhaust is a stock T3 from a 300ZX. Any suggestions on what would be the best wheel and trim combination?

If you take off the compressor housing you can measure the inducer and exducer of the compressor wheel with some calipers. With that information you can determine what compressor wheel you have. TimZ has posted on how turbine efficiency is very important in the scheme of using a turbocharger and it can, if not properly sized, kill your ability to make power no matter how big a compressor wheel you use. If you are looking for big power and you are using the word "stock," chances are it sucks for what you are trying to do. The options I have seen w/out going to a full T4 is the stage V turbine wheel or a euro T3 turbine housing that allows you to shove a P-trim turbine wheel into that sucker. As I said before the 60-1 can spool like nobody business on that motor with the proper setup and will easily make 400hp@wheels in the 23-25psi area. I was making about 365@wheels with 19psi running rich on the topend going 120.2mph in the 1/4 with a 60-1.

 

Would a cam really help much
A cam can be very significant in your motors ability to make power. If all else has been addressed, intake and exhuast, a cam can then be properly utilized. The reason we have said the turbo efficiency seems to have crapped is that I have seen dyno graphs using the 60-1 turbo on a bone stock motor where power peaks around 6Krpm. Cams I have seen do well are the Isky Stage I cam as TimZ uses and my Web Cam. More lift and more duration will help the motor to breath even on turbo applications.

 

I still plan on getting the 3" exhaust but right now I'm running the Scotties 2.5" down pipe. Should I just go up in size after the down pipe or should I go 3" down pipe right from the start?

What muffler should I be running?

If you can go all 3" that is ideal. What are you running for a downpipe right now?

 

I personally do not run a muffler, but I used to run the Dynomax Race Magnum which is a pretty nice muffler. You want to utilize a muffler with a straight thru design, meaning you can see right through one end to the other. They will make a big difference in sound without creating the unwanted backpressure.

 

No reason to reinvent the wheel in your quest. Just use reasonable judgement and look at what others have done and what they have achieved.

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james is right i run scottie's dp then i got 3" piping and it works great i have a magna flow zero backpressure muffler and it sounds and looks great i love it.The 3" from 2.5" on mine made a big difference in my car.The whole exhaust from the dp back cost me 200 bucks and they did a great job.Thanks for the info on the haltech too i am definately gonna go with one now.

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I dropped 8 tenths of a second and picked up 8 miles per hour going from a sucky 2.5 in set up to a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust, all other things constant, so do the math. 2900 pound car without me in it. Biggest bang for the buck of any mod I have done to a turbo Z car.

 

I agree with the 60-1 and use either a stage 3 or 5 turbine in a .63 ar housing and you should make plenty of power.

 

I would do the exhaust and upgrade the turbo before doing the cam. The exhaust will improve your spool up too.

 

Do the exhaust first, it will be the building block for everything else. trust me, you won't regret it, and run a straight thru muffler like an ultra flow or a Hooker max flo.

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