Tim240z Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 So I just built my own. Man what a lot of work. . I think my welding this weekend increased the Statewide ambient temperature by at least 2 degrees!!! Anyways, since I could not find a set of headers that I liked (didn't want to go the shorty blockhugger route), I welded up a set of "Tri Ys". Not my best work by any means (limited to a hacksaw, 4" grinder and oxy/acet welder), and I was working with some pipe that had been laying around for a while, and some new pieces. The lowdown is: 1.75" primaries into 2.25" secondaries (2 x: 2 into 1) and the 2 x 2.25" secondaries into 3" collector. They'll obviously look a lot better once they're sand blasted and painted. Here are a couple of pics: Odd bank Even Bank Clearance for the plugs are good, and the exhaust is not the lowest part of the car. (main problem with the S&S headers on the pass. side) Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 Awesome, Tim! Sounds like you had it all in the car and fit it nice and tight?! Can you say Jet-Hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two40MuscleZ Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 Nice Job Tim! Glad you were able to pick up the welding unit. Comps, VAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 Looks good to me! What did you start with for flanges/head pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 24, 2002 Author Share Posted September 24, 2002 Mike, The platform is the S&S headers that didn't fit in the first place because the collectors were completely in the wrong places (driver's side pointed directly into the slave boss on the T56 and the pass. side into the subframe connector...not even near close enough to just 'bend' a bit to fit). Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Tim, Those look great, you should congratulate yourself. That thin pipe ain't easy thats for sure. Those look awesome, great job! Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Tim,Great job on thin pipe. I found that 3 inch roll lock discs either sand paper or the coarse scotch brite on a rotary air grinder really clean up welds. I recently welded a roll bar for Nate's Vello Rossa that will eventaully get chrome plated and used the scotch brite roll locks on the mostly ground off weld beads. The roll locks gave it a chrome like polish which is needed prior to plating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 24, 2002 Author Share Posted September 24, 2002 Pete, Yes I have it in the car now and it fits great! Nice and tight and tucked away. I just need to weld on the collector flanges and the O2 sensor bungs Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 24, 2002 Author Share Posted September 24, 2002 TZ, What's this roll lock disk thingy that you are talking about. I'm not familiar with this term....maybe I just know it by a different name. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 What I call "roll locks' are round abrasive discs in either sandpaper or scotch brite material with a plastic threaded screw afixed to the back side of the abrasive disc to screw into a round rubber adapter that is the same diameter to the abrasive disc. . The disc adapter has a rod shaft that fits into the hand held air grinder collett. I prefer the 3 inch disc. The Scotch Brite is Expensive at over 2 bucks a disc. I bought a kit some time ago at Harbor Freight and ran out of the customary abrasives and decided to use the Roll locks after some one posted a reference to them. Absolutely destroys old head gaskets with the Scotch brite disc.I even used them in erasing mold lines on fiberglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gprix1 Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Tim, What starter is that you have on your T-56? it looks like that one fits real nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 25, 2002 Author Share Posted September 25, 2002 Rick, It is the OEM Z28 starter. I thought about replacing with a smaller one, but I really wouldn't have gained any extra exhaust clearance because I'm actually about 3/4 inch from the starter, but only about 1/16 inch from the bellhousing. Only having the 2 horizontal pipes makes for much more ground clearance than the 4 into 1 collector. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 Agreed, scotchbrites rock! Best invention since the lefthanded red handled metric crecent wrench. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 25, 2002 Author Share Posted September 25, 2002 OK, I understand now. I actually have an unopened set from Harborfreight!!! I guess I'll pop it's cherry on the headers. Thanks, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 Tim, is this the starter with the stamped cap on the rear and the bolts that hold it together run outside of the case? (see discussion in Chevy V8 on LT1 starter) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 27, 2002 Author Share Posted September 27, 2002 Mike, Just eyeballed my starter, and yes, it does have the external bolts holding the backing plate onto the armature housing. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 Thanks for looking Tim one more for you. Does it have the stamped plate covering the end or is it the ~2" long "stage"? I got some more starters from my boat buddy and looks like there are at LEAST 3 different motor bodies in addition to at least two noses. I'm curious as to which ones people have had troubles with since they seem to be excellent little units. (Submerging them not withstanding! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 27, 2002 Author Share Posted September 27, 2002 Mike, It appears to be just a stamped cover, similar to any other Chevy starter I've seen. I don't understand the "stage" reference that you are refering to. Like I said, it looks like just about any other starter that I've seen before. I will be pulling my motor out again (AGAIN!!!), this weekend, I will take some pics if you like. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 Very nice work Tim !!! They look like they tuck in tight and should flow very nicely. Just how big is that final exit? 2.5"? Curious. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 28, 2002 Author Share Posted September 28, 2002 Davy, Here are the specs: To answer your question: 3" 1.75" primaries into 2.25" secondaries (2 x: 2 into 1) and the 2 x 2.25" secondaries into 3" collector. I still need to weld on the collector flanges and O2 sensor bungs (doing today) Thanks, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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